Tacoma Loose Bed design Flaw explanation

Guttentyte.

 

I don't speak German but I think I get what you are saying.

 

Go until the bolt breaks and then back off 1/2 a turn.

 

Well, I've been digging into this since the post and the answer is .........................??

In fact the FSM is completely silent on everything about the bed itself, very strange.

The heads of the bolts are a Torx T-55 and I did find a chart for max. torque for that size Torx and it is about 186 ft.lbs. Way tooooo much in my opinion. Don't do it.

I also found quite a number of references to those who have tried tightening them on newish trucks and they report their click-style wrenches click at around 55/60 ft.lbs.

So the answer is >>>>>>>"Guttentyte", with apoligies to DrFunker.

 

I think this information would be in the Body Repair Manual, which is the one I don't have of course.

In the general bolts section of the Service Specifications the highest rating is 116 ft-lb on a

$13 M12x1.25 mm Self-Locking Nylon Insert Hex Lock Nuts, Pack of 6

M12x1.25 hex bolt or 130 ft-lb on a flange bolt. That would be for the 11T class bolt. That's like grade 12.9 bolt, which those bed bolts probably are not. If I had to guess they are grade 8.8 and with the fancy Armorcoat you'd generically torque an M12 bolt to 55 ft-lb to achieve a clamping load of 8,240 lbs. That probably would suffice. ;-)

I don't think the bolt is weak part of the connection, it's the captured nut on the frame. I believe it's tacked in place on the bracket and would probably break loose before the bolt broke.

 

I agree. And was the reason on the back of mind to recommend against the high torque value listed on the chart for Torx bolts.

 

And here I thought that I was the only one with this problem.

 

my 2016 just developed this. The dealer told me it was due to lifting my truck. haha.

Glad I found this, now to measure the gap on the bolt, find a sheet of something, although I think I have a small enough cutting board I could donate to this.

HDPE would be ideal though, Iwork in an area this should be easily found.

THanks

Steve

 

I have a thin one sitting on the cupboard that should work. I'm about 1/8-1/4" measuring tomorrow.

Steve

 

Bolts are all in good condition, just the front passenger side like everyone else.

 

@tacobell007

 

Makes sense now why my bed flexes down and not up. Guess I'll have to get all new bed bolts and the d-ring bolts now instead of 2 and 2. I know the old toyota pickups had like a leather or cork spacer between the bed and frame for a few of the mounting holes

 

this is not easy material to find here in Canada. I can get a 4x8' sheet of it. But that does me not good at all, what do I do with the remaining 99% of it. Hmm, I could sell it to the rest of you guys I suppose.

 

Well, this has to be the easiest fix in the world. Sadly my cutting board will never be the same. It was the perfect fit that i needed, well maybe 1-2mm thicker but that is not a big deal. Gives me room to righten if need be.

I had limited tools as the service truck was in the shop, hack saw bad and the largest paddle bit I could find. Just big enough to fit the metal sleeve.

2"x2" piece about 8mm thick, voila, truck sits perfectly and no matter chatter when driving.

 

Old thread, but want to contribute in my small way. I first tried a 1/8" piece of UHMW sheet drilled to a size that allowed the bolt to pass through; didn't last long and the thump came back. Searching for a thicker material to replace it with, I stumbled upon a car wash manufacturer in Inglewood, CA that has large UHMW washers in their parts list. Based on the wear pattern on my first attempt, my thought was that the material needed a larger hole that would accommodate the OD of the metal sleeve in the mount.

This pic shows the wear pattern on the top of the first attempt and the washer that replaced it. Note the area that was compressed by the mount sleeve.



Here it is on the truck. Bottom line is, drill a hole just large enough to let the sleeve pass through. Did this 6 months ago and have not had the issue return.

 

Nice find!

 

Nice work EDDO!

 

Interesting...my 1/8" UHMW is going on a year now successfully and my truck has definitely seen A LOT of miles on washboard roads.

FWIW, if anybody else in the South SF bay is having this problem and in need of UHMW I probably have some on my stock rack and am more than willing to hook you up with piece.

 

Boy am I glad I stumbled across this thread. I have been hearing something go clank in the bed for a couple months, first assuming it was one of the many tool/toys that occupy the bed. Then when I shored everything up and still heard it I had been assuming it was the leaf pack. I see the err in my ways.

What's the best way to access these points from underneath? Jack up the whole rear and removed tires or one side at a time? TW for the win once again!