San Diego BS Thread.

4.56 with a TrueTrac in the rear. Would have loved to gone with the Harrop E-Locker but 1400 was a little much.

 

I thought you had the OR? Now I have to do research on what TrueTrac is. Lol

 

No, mine is a Sport.

Edit: TrueTrac vid

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXtHM5-P0s0

 

I couldn’t agree more. They helped me out a ton when I blew up my rear end and were very patient with me despite my numerous phone calls.

I can’t recommend another place more, and this is coming from a guy who does 99.8% of all of his own work.

 

Interesting... I’d like to see how it works out for you. Sounds like it could be very useful in the front differential.

What did that end up running?

 

Unfortunately it's not available for the front. Only thing you can do up front is the ARB or Harrop. Total for my setup is just under $2K.

 

I was just looking at that. I didn’t realize the Harrop was $1400 for just the unit! So that’s the $600 on top of that for the third.

Nvm on the front diff though. It seemed like a decent alternative to a locker in order to save some of that stress on the CVs. I guess it’s ARB for the win then.

That front and rear?

 

I’d love to get 4.88s, although the power loss on 35s really isn’t even bad lol

 

Yeah, $2K for the front and rear. Not too bad.

 

That was/still is a hot topic but I was only going to run 33”s for awhile so 4:88s would have been way too much gear.

 

Why didn’t you do the ARB? More curious than anything. The price would have been between the trueTrac and the Harrop.

 

I was really sold on the Harrop but couldn't justify the cost. There are a couple of good threads on here with the TrueTrac and that seemed like it would fit my needs a lot better and save some money. We'll see what happens.

 

I was thinking of going 4:88, I have full steel armor and am on 33’s. They said it’d probably be a good idea as well, albeit a little high it’d work out best for what I’m running now and ultimately when I/ if I go to 35’s

 

4:88s would help a ton with the low end grunt, especially if you have a ton of weight but I do a lot of higher speed freeway driving and 4:88s would kill my top end on 33”s.

 

I’m running full skids, full armored and a winch on 35s...the only time I wish I had gears so far has been driving in the hills, and I’m coming from a 5 speed 3.4 that was supercharged, 7th I hector and a smaller pulley.

 

Well momentum has a lot to do with that. I dont think you’ll notice gearing on a DD standpoint unless you constantly drive like a douche or do a lot of higher speed driving. My 4:56 aren’t that beneficial until I hit the hills or the trails.

It just allows my powertrain to work less under load. Especially when traveling with all of our gear.

 

I def miss having gears in the rocks, but I’m not sure it’s bad enough to justify 2k on new gears


If money was no issue my truck would be geared...and a lot other things too

 

You and I both. You have an OR though so the locker is already covered.

First things if money was no issue would be no truck payment, a HCrear with a swingout, rear relocation and a SC.

 

I’d be doing tc +2 with bumps and bypasses. Rear would be doing shock hoop and bypass/bumps

Not doing any fab stuff till I buy another welder and have a bigger garage.

 

I think I'm just going to add more anchor points in the bed and use a ratcheting Y-strap to hold the spare flat on the bed's floor. I took my tailgate off since I don't need it nor the dead weight so the spare will hang out the back about a foot. Below are pics of how the the 40" spare will fit roughly. The eye-bolts on the bed are removable but I'll be using the same bolts for anchor points at the new positions. As a secondary securing system, I think I'm going to add a 4th anchor point down the center of the spare location to help bolt the spare down to the bed.