Use duck tape to seal up holes in frame frame; fight corrosion

I don't think you're going to get past the body mount bushing. I have an old picture of it (below). I need time to really look at it... They say this winter is going to be a monster with wet weather. So now is the time to fix shit like this.

 

Exactly what I was thinking. I did the majority of my frame a couple weeks ago, now just paying extra attention to the problem areas.

I'll post here what I come up with for that hole. Thinking about heading to Home Depot and scooping up a couple different sized tapered rubber stoppers. I'm hoping it can be set in the hole and then use a long screwdriver to push it firmly in place.

 

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That's great to hear. Whatever I come up with, I'll report back--right now I'm thinking more tape.

 

That's a good idea but not an option for me. That whole area is soaked with FF right now and not a chance I'll get any tape to stick.

 

That explains what I saw in your photo. I think FF is great at what it does. I was going to suggest cleaning the area, but acording to this, cleaning FF off looks like a real pain and it's one of the reasons I couldn't bring myself to spray my truck with it. For a couple years I've had a liter or two sitting in my garage in new unopened containers. I am fortunate though, I live in an arid climate with no salt. Stuff still rusts on my truck but nothing even remotely close to what happens to Tacomas in the North East. I get by with a wire brush and flat black spray paint.

 

Lucky! Might be easier for me to just move next fall versus reapplying.

 

I gave up trying to find a way to block the 2.5" hole on the frame inside the cab mount. I started focusing on a way to block the 3.75" larger hole easily accessible underneath the cab mount itself.

I found that the head of a small plunger fit perfectly in this hole as shown in the picture below. It's snug and even if it were to be pushed upwards a bit the cab mount bolt is there to make sure it doesn't come completely dislodged. Also, this will be far easier to check to make sure it remains in place because it's visible versus crawling on the ground to look up inside the cab mount.

It looks pretty dumb but if it stays in place I can always trim it down a bit. What do you guys think?

 

Buzz,that is one of the funniest things I've seen in a while!

 

Good point about water being able to exit too. I was thinking the two drain holes toward the inside of the mount would still help with that. Your point about the flaps makes sense too. I still have mine on and maybe I'm overthinking this whole thing...

Ha! Glad you got some enjoyment out of that but it looks even more ridiculous in person! As mentioned above, when I get going on a project I can get a little carried away...

 

I slapped black gorilla tape on the holes that I couldn’t locate plugs for and the tape is still in good shape after nearly 3 years. If I had known the tape was going to hold up so well, I wouldn’t have bothered buying the plugs.

 

I'd rather not plug them. Then I can fit a pressure washer nozzle in and blast the inside of the frame with water to get salt, sand, and dirt out.

 

If the holes are plugged, stuff doesn’t get in there. Great thing about tape is you can easily remove it.

 

Isn't there a huge opening where the frame goes from C-channel to boxed anyway? I'm pretty sure that's how mine is.

 

As I understand it, the positioning of the holes allow the wheels to shove salt, blah blah down into the frame. May the open area is less prone to picking it up as you drive.

 

I guess that makes sense.

I just blast the inside of the frame and the cab mounts with soapy water regularly in the winter. The inside of my frame still looks new after six New England winters.

 

I have seriously thought about using closed cell foam to fill the entire frame, rails, and anything else that is hollow.

 

I'm pretty sure that will just trap water, unless you are not just filling the frame rails but also sealing up all the frame holes with the expanding foam... in which case, I'm not sure how long that foam would last against the elements anyway. But I like the way you think.

 

Closed cell foam is an entirely different beast then open cell, it won't wick moisture or allow it to pass through it and most will stick like crazy to the surface it expands against. I would not try it with open cell type foam.

 

This is something that is more than what just meets the eye. Take for example a proper installed window in a house. The seals/Flashngs are designed to keep water out AND allow any water that should get behind the seals to to drain. Just like drain holes in your vehicles doors, if you plug them up - the water stays inside. If the holes are covered - they could be "one way valves" i.e. flapper type covers that prevent the water from getting in, and also allow debris and moisture to drain evaporate. But, Considering that airflow and ventilation helps reduce condensation it does has its side effects as well.

 

I'm a little late to this party but I think I will try the Flex Tape. They make it in 4" 8" and 12" wide rolls.
I've used this on other projects and it has a very strng adhesive.

$22 Flex Tape, Original Thick Flexible Rubberized Waterproof Tape - Seal and Patch Leaks, Works Underwater, Indoor Outdoor - Home RV Roof Plumbing and Pool Repairs, Black, 8 in x 5 ft, Pack of 1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5Q3JBF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1TTB2MXHGYRTJ&psc=1

Has anyone else tried this stuff?

I'm going to use it in the bed cubbies as well.