Grease Points for the 2013 Toyota, Tacoma, Access cab, 4X4, Pick-up w/V6 engine

Researching where the different grease points are located on different models one finds himself a little frustrated because of so many configurations. This article is not intended to serve all of the Tacomas but rather the one in the title only.

There are 5 grease points one for each of the U-joints and there are no slip joint zurks. There is NO "Cardan Joint" on this year model. Ideally, one wants to have his/her Pick-up on a rack but many times this is not the case. Most, if not all the zurks seem to be on the same side of there respective drive lines, i.e., if you turn either of the two drive lines to expose the zurks in a serviceable position the others on the shaft will also be pointing in the same direction. This information is invaluable when your crawling around under the pick-up and on the ground with a grease gun in tow.

The hardest zurk to service is the one on the most aft end of the front drive line. The reason it is harder to service is that there is a rock guard in the way. If you are unable to rotate the drive line you can easily remove the rock guard by removing just two 12 mm bolts--makes it a little easier.
(See--"Aft end of forward drive line")

My purpose with this article is to render a little help to anyone trying to look up grease point on this particular vehicle. I will try and attach pictures of each U-joint to aid you in your quest. Sincerely, LC

 

Found it LC. Great pics. These are just like on my 2011.
Thanks.

 

Same on my 2015 thanks!

 

Using this today. First time doing my own maintenance on this rig after my Toyota Care was up. Great write-up. Thank you LC!

 

Just chiming in since I just did this again last week - make sure to get a flexible hose grease gun. If you had a hard line grease nozzle like me, buy a $5 flexible hose from eBay to convert what you already bought. This will let you access the three rear drive shaft zerks no matter what direction they are pointed while the truck is in park, and the two front drive shaft zerks. My guard shield bolts were seized - one broke off, so I have to use a flex hose to get through th opening for the hard to reach zerk in the front drive shaft. Im. It drilling out that stupid stuck bolt.

Keep squeezing and pumping until fresh colored grease squirts out the of joints.

 

Thanks for the 411. Went full synthetic Saturday last after 38,200 break in miles. Was told there were not any lube points on most so this is where I turn for the low down. Mine is a 2 wheel drive so maybe not as many but now I have an idea where to search. Gonna jack it up when there isn’t any rain this weekend. Left her sitting in the drive for the week so no damage possible.
Thanks again!


And my niece nicknamed me Uncle HairBall so I’m keeping it in her memory.

 

If you have a V6 PreRunner(2WD) then you don't have grease fittings, the 4Cyl PreRunner's have them.

 

Excellent! No worries then.

 

10-4 on the V6 PreRunner(2WD) not having grease fittings.

 

As far as i know, prerunners are hit and miss on grease fittings. My 4cyl prerunner didnt have the grease fittings, but my dad’s 4cyl prerunner does..

 

Doing all 5 now. Thanks OP. Thanks TW

 

Big thanks for this write up. I was able to get to all five with a standard grease pump. Things are a lot simpler when you know what you are looking for.

Edit: So that didn't kill the rotational squeak in reverse. I guess its on to the carrier bearing? Perhaps I will replace all the u-joints and the carrier in one go.

 

Thanks for the write up! Planning on doing this for the first time next weekend. Any suggestions for type of grease to use?

 

FWIW, your Owner's Manual calls for "Lithium base chassis grease, NLGI No.2"

 

I have 13 points to grease, at some point will be adding two more.

 

Wow! Toyota was really looking out for you dude

 

Points were added with upgraded suspension.

 

The ball in one of my zerks froze. I got it open by piking it with an awl, but then it wanted to stay open. I poked it again and it closed, but I don't like driving around wondering if all my grease is leaking out.

It's the angled Zerk where the front driveshaft meets the transfer case--the one you have to remove that shield to get to (OP's last pic). Does anyone know where I can get this exact zerk? I can only find new U-joints, and I definitely don't want to replace the whole thing just for a bad zerk.

Thanks for any help!

 

What a pain in the ass but if you are diligent your parts will last a long time.

 

This is a very old thread, but as an original owner of an '11 I should have said how good it was when it first came out. It was (and is) a very useful bit of information. The only comment I would make is that in my experience it is not necessary to lube every oil change at 5k. I found that I was putting in so very little grease to get fitting full that I have switched to a 10k mile interval. Even with that, very little grease is needed. Also, shooting some WD 40 on the bolts which hold the gravel guard makes removing/installing the bolts much easier.