What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I know a bunch about 35's and diffs, but as far as suspension goes, I'm a bad person to ask.

Running stock location 5125's and 5100's Been researching the fuck out of relocations though because it's the ultimate goal.

I swapped mine. I need to find photos though.

IIRC it looked like this:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...b-3-smd-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/228/

 

Sounds like you're using your shocks as bumpstops.

 

Isn't that what shocks are? Oversized bumpstops lol jk

 

Removing and installing the differential is fun. I got my front differential from a 1996 4Runner Limited at a Pick-n-Pull. It still had the transmission mounted to it so I had a lot of trouble dropping it out. I removed all the vacuum lines, fasteners, and even the mounting brackets but the pinion flange kept hitting the bellhousing of the transmission. I gave up and came back the next day to try again armed with a bottle jack I snuck in and removing the engine mounts.

Luckily I didn't have to do that. Someone on here told me to "rotate the differential forward" and I'll be damned if it didn't come out in less than 10 seconds.

Installing it is a two person job. I tried using a jack but you have to rotate it a certain way to get it in and the only way you can do that is with the accuracy and strength of using two people.

 

Thanks, I knew at some point they switched from one cat to two and in 03 switched to fly-by-wire throttle and assumed there was more differences... Just not sure what all changed and when.

 

Finally got the new headlights in! Also finally solved the mystery sound! A bearing went inside the front diff, got a new (to me) diff and a new drivers side axel shaft and she is all ready for spring!!

Anyone in here from Vancouver area? Local word of mouth 4x4 shop shut down, looking for another one to get sliders welded on and get some new rear springs....anyone?

 

What Brett said. Sounds like they are bump stops now. OME shocks a just over 9" long if I remember right.

Probably not hurting much but not good for the life of the shock. If you ever upgrade to a better shock you'll want to do it right and really check your clearances.

Well...in the form of classic toyota they changed ecu stuff a LOT. some every 3 months. But the pin outs changed for the sub generations.

 

They’re right at 60#

 

Which brackets did you use? This sounds like the way to go imo

 

I'll see if i can find them. I had to open up the hood brackets to a wider angle because 90* won't work with the way the hood is constructed.

 

Roof rack info!?! Looks sweet

 

Thanks! It's a Smittybilt Defender rack, the compact version but they make a bigger one that stretches the length of the cab.

 

Fairly positive these are the brackets. I believe this seller also has stainless steal struts for a lot less than the Redline units.

Suspa C16-08260 19.7" Gas Prop/Strut, Set of Two, Force 60 lbs Per Prop/Strut, Force 120 lbs Per Pair, Made in USA

$29 Suspa C16-08260 19.7" Gas Prop/Strut, Set of Two, Force 60 lbs Per Prop/Strut, Force 120 lbs Per Pair, Made in USA

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007MUY6LA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PPuRAbDETEDJ1


Edit: SS 20" 60# struts

 

Yeah, that's gonna be a nice little increase. You are going to feel that. Mostly in acceleration and braking and of course the MPG hit.

 

Well I can’t image it’ll be much worse than what other people have put on.

Learn to live with it or get rid of it.

 

I'm sure you'll love it. It'll look great. Just take a little getting used to. Are you an auto or a manual?

Regarding rear clearance, I doubt you'll have a problem. When you mount the tire on the wheel, the tire will not be as tall as it is now.

 

Clutch slippin like everyone’s march madness brackets. Marlincrawler, OEM, ideas?

 

Auto, too dumb to drive manual.



They look nice

 

Awesome, thank you!

 

I only check in to this thread every 100 pages or so. Impossible to keep up with you all...

My alternator died on the trip home last night after work. Luckily I had a spare waiting at home to put in this morning. I had bought a 160A high output alternator back when I did my battery wiring upgrade and headlight upgrade. I realized at that point I don't have any accessories that require that much power, so I decided to see how long the original would last. Turns out the answer to that is 19 years and 324k miles. Now I'm going to rebuild the original and keep it as a spare for when this aftermarket job inevitably fails. I love this hobby!



Here's what was left of the brushes after they stopped working. For TW posterity, the part number for the brush holder sub-assembly is

$33 27370-35060 Alternator Holder Assembly

27370-35060.