Power steering half way working?!

okay so somthing very odd happened to me two days ago and I don’t know why.
For starters i changed my steering rack 400 miles ago. ( yes shame on me it was a Amazon purchase) all my local auto parts stores wanted more then double for it and I just couldn’t afford it. So i changed the rack no problem, the next morning I got an alignment. When I changed it and added new fluid I bleed it out by removing the cap and turning the wheel.

Like I said 400 miles have gone by and I let my truck sit for about 4 days because I was driving another car. I got into my truck two days ago and went to back up and my steering was stiff not hard just like had a stiff spot at about the 10 o’clock position and then it would be fine then if I turned it back to the 2 o clock position then I would feel the hard spot again. It’s a werid it’s almost like my power steering is half way working but only around that spot like if I go around a corner and the wheel is turned at the 10 o’clock it’s stiff holding the wheel at that position. But after I gets oast that is is easier then gets hard again

Sorry for long post I just want to explain the best I can. I hope I didn’t get screwed by buying a amazon rack or can it be somthing simple I need some opinions maybe I need to bleed it out more? Is there another way of bleeding power steering?
Thanks for your help!

 

Chec, clean, and lube the u-joint in the steering shaft between the box and steering wheel. Probably easier to take fr driver wheel off and remove a few of the pins holding splash guard. This can cause the feeling you are getting, did for me. I try to give mine a lil love every spring cuz im in the mud alot.

 

Thanks I didn’t even think of that. I’ll have to give that a try Tommrow

 

I clean, turn, clean, oil, turn, clean turn, clean,etc, repeat,repeat . Yuo wont get it too clean

 

Get the intermediate shaft replaced before the joint fails. If it fails the steering also goes away. Cleaning and greasing is only a patch.

 

Last week I had the exact same problem... I was going to start by flushing the fluid and replace it but the problem has went away. I still want to flush the fluid but as of right now the problem has gone away completely. Maybe it will come back Idk

 

Not to sound cheap but if the joint isn’t bad like clunking and banging when I turn then why would I need to replace it and why would it just be a patch. If I buy a brand new one and I read that this joint is exposed and it gets road grim and mud in it all the time, if I got a new one wouldn’t the new one just do the same thing? It sounds like from what I read this u joint for the steering is like a maintenance part on these trucks that a lot of people have problems with. But if it’s not clunking or loose I don’t see why to change it

 

Cleaning and greasing a failing joint is covering up an issue that needs attention. That is what I am calling a patch.

If it is binding it is starting to fail.
If it fails you will not be able to steer the truck.
If you can't steer the truck at speed you stand a good chance of killing yourself or someone else.

I think that is a pretty good reason.

 

A binding steering shaft is likely, especially since I found this is a common issue on these trucks

But

Since you’re implying that this issue didn’t happen with your old rack, I think you might want to look at the set screw on the rack.
There’s a huge pretensioner bolt on the rear of the rack. You can adjust the bolt to make steering stiffer or looser.
It is a little more technical than that, so you should be careful, and adjust it slowly and check in between.

 

There is a specific procedure to set the Pre-load on the power steering rack. I wouldn't advise anyone to go tweaking on it without anyway to know what they are doing. NOTE: It should be done with the rack out of the vehicle and on a bench.

From the service manual here: http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old.../06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/045007.pdf

ADJUST TOTAL PRELOAD
(a) To prevent the steering rack teeth from damaging the oil seal lip, provisionally install the RH and LH steering rack end.

(b) Using SST, torque the rack guide spring cap. SST 09631-10021 Torque: 25 N*m (254 kgf*cm, 18 ft.*lbf)

c) Using SST, loosen the rack guide spring cap. SST 09631-10021

(d) Using SST, turn the control valve to the right and left once or twice. SST 09616-00011 (e) Using SST, loosen the
rack guide spring cap until the rack guide spring ceases to function. SST 09631-10021

(f) Using SST and a torque wrench, tighten the rack guide spring cap until the pre-load is within the specification.
SST 09631-10021, 09616-00011 Preload (turning): 0.9 to 1.5 N*m (9.2 to 15.3 kgf*cm, 8.0 to 13.3 in.*lbf)

(g) Apply sealant to 2 or 3 threads of the rack guide spring cap nut. Sealant: Part No. 08833-00080, THREE BOND 1344, LOCTITE 242 or equivalent

(h) Provisionally install the rack guide spring cap nut.

(i) Using SST, hold the rack guide spring cap and using another SST, torque the rack guide spring cap nut. SST
09631-10021, 09922-10010 Torque: for use without SST 59 N*m (601 kgf*cm, 44 ft.*lbf) for use with SST
43 N*m (440 kgf*cm, 32 ft.*lbf)

NOTICE: Turn SST 09922-10010 in the direction shown in the illustration.

HINT: Use a torque wrench with a fulcrum length of 345 mm (13.58 in.).

(j) Recheck the total preload. Preload (turning): 0.9 to 1.5 N*m (9.2 to 15.3 kgf*cm, 8.0 to 13.3 in.*lbf)

(k) Remove the RH and LH steering rack ends. SST F051724E01 SST F051725E01 SST F051726E01 SST Fulcrum Length SST F051727E01

 

Yea it happened after I installed the new rack.
I looked at the u joint last night and there was no rust on it at all actually, I did spray it but before I sprayed it I had my step dad turn the wheel and it’s not clunking and binding or rubbing that I saw. I sprayed it anyway and put grease on it just because. I will say that it didn’t solve the problem 100% but I would say like 50% but it might just be me telling my self it helped when I still feel it stiff.... so I think it may be something with the rack

 

I’m Not ruleing out that the steering shaft u joint is not the problem cuz it very well could be but I didn’t see any rust or corrosion or clunking or binding when I was watching it turn. But it still very well may be the problem.

 

Damm it every time I use this site I find something else I need to do or look into on my truck.
Steering seemed to be dead in spots so I did the drain refill rinse repeat last winter.
It was needed and helped, this winter I’ve noticed a lack of return to center in the wheel. This site has been huge in keeping my taco on the go. Did the clean and lube on the intermediate shaft, works as it should now.
Once winter gives in here I will be stripping my frame and will replace the joint if the truck is either rotted enough for a frame or good enough to maintain the frame on my own.
I hate to think of getting rid of my truck.
I saw another post on this that mentioned a greaseable joint.

 

Yea not to sound mean but your joint is 100x worse looking then mine.
I bought my truck from a 1 owner from the south with 160,000 miles on it. The frame is recalled so it’s no rust but also the truck as so rust anywhere the underneath of the truck is spotless truthfully cleanest truck I seen. Even though I drive it now in the rough PA winters haha.

But my joint was black/grey with no surface rust even on it. But I can see yours how it’s very rusty.

 

No worries bud it is what it is.
It’s been in vt all her life!

 

SaMe thing happen to my 08 and it turns out it was power steering rack leaking.

 

My u joint on the steering shaft almost sent me into a rock when i went to whip into my driveway probably two summers ago, the steering had always been a little loose and seemed to have crazy play in it. I have greased it 3 or 4 times since but honestly i checked it yesterday and its getting a little scary now that i look at it up under a lift. Afro-market replacements cost around 50 bucks, OEM toyota is 140$-185$. This shaft is getting done soon because i do a lot of highway driving and weekend wheeling trips. The replacing seems pretty easy as long as you lock the wheel. With this joint I'm going to be locating a flexible boot of sorts that i can put an adjustable locking cv clamp over either side on the shaft to protect the u joint from shit.

 

I wonder if you could use a shock boot, obviously would be to long but you can cut it down n clamp it on there.

 

I was thinking about using an accordion boot from like a power steering rack. 15 bucks or so.