About to install SPC UCA via bolt cut, can i drill...

One of the things i've read a couple of times is not to install the bolt backwards because it was designed so it can't back out. There seems to be enough room on the bolt to drill for a cotter pin. Is that silly?

 

Why not put it back the way it came?

 

Bend some metal and get it in/out. Plenty of us have done it without problems, I had a buddy help pull them out from under the hood while I was in the wheel well.

 

I prefer not to bend panels on a new truck

I’m going to cut the head of the bolt and it out from the opposite side so I suppose I will be putting it back in the way it came out. I don’t want to bend the body panels.

 

I have mine in backwards - yes it theoretically can back off and fall out. I put some blue locktite on the threads and just keep an eye on it to make sure the nut isn't loosening

 

Just realized you have a ‘17, on 2nd gens its just bending a small part of sheet metal that the curtain attaches to on the passenger side. I can’t help here

 

Seems to me, if you are changing out a part that really doesn't need changed, bending a bit of sheet metal should not be a big deal. Just my thoughts. Don't hate on me.

 

I cut mine as well. You could do a cotter pin, but some red loctite and properly torquing it is key and I've never read of anyone on here having it back out. Plus someone who is way smarter than I said that he's studied what makes bolts come loose, and the forces at play on the UCA bolt don't lend itself to loosening.

 

Had to bend a tiny bit on my 1st gen to change arms as well. It's just how it's done and it's completely unnoticable on all gens. It's not like prying a whole panel 90° or something just a slight bend on a small inner piece that makes it clear the bolt head and washer

 

This was on the correct way and torqued properly. It backed out and the bushing fell off while the bolt worked its way forward. @BeeSharp its a small body tab under the hood you can not see. After we repaired it and limped it home we use the factory nut with a nylon lock nut also. Reason for this other than a cotter pin is when you have to grease them you back the nut off a little and grease it, drive it around then tighten it back up. With a cotter pin it can be a pain to get in there.

 

That’s pretty smart to use nylock nut on top of the factory one. I’m gonna suggest this from now on when people talk about UCA installation. Do you happen to remember the size?

 

Not but i remember we had a birch of a time locating it when we were in Hot Springs Arkansas. Went to 10 stores but I don’t remember the size.

 

Just found the answer in another thread in case you were curious. M14x1.5

 

Perfect thanks, I’ve got factory spare nuts and bolts.

 

I wish I would have seen these threads earlier. I just spend half a day trying to bend/cut/BFH my fenderwell so I could remove that bolt. Definitely say cut that damn bolt. Saves the headache...and time.