Long time reader, first time posting. Doing a little work on my 1st gen. (drive shaft)

I'm from Portland. This truck has been my daily driver for over seven years and has served me very well. I am amazed what it can do, be it hauling way too much stuff with a trailer, or climbing up embankments out in the forest.

I really challenged it a bit last year while I was living in the woods for a few months in N. Cal. It was driven through snow and streams and sat for a month or two, covered in snow. (Probably had some of that snow contacting its driveline for a bit too long.)

Anyway, the rear driveshaft has done much more than any driveshaft should be asked to do and I've parked it, pending a rebuild. The rear U-Joint is basically hanging by a thread--as much as one can, without falling apart, anyway.


I'm about to order parts and pay someone to put it together, as I don't currently have a garage or proper tools to work with.

Some specs: 1996 Tacoma Xtracab 4x4 with 2.7l, 5-spd (Last 8 of the VIN are TZ161662, if that helps.)

From what I've read, I need to order two spider kits, and a center support bearing. Based on the damage to the rear universal joint, I plan to get a new rear propeller shaft yoke as well.

These are the part numbers I'm working with:
Spider kits: 0437160070
Center Support/Carrier Bearing:

$141 37230-35130 Toyota Clutch Bearing - 37230-35130

37230-35130 (or?) Spicer 5002007
Rear Propeller Shaft Yoke: 37315-35040

The part I'm most curious about is the center support bearing. I read somewhere that the Spicer part is OEM for this, but I see a couple of tabs on it that aren't on the other one--and I'm not sure the measurements match up.


This is the first step to really fix up this truck. I've formed a bit of a bond with it and I want to make it awesome. Next steps are valve adjustment, clutch (it's a little bit loose now), another tune-up, then transmission service.

It's at about 240k miles right now, and I plan on doing a bunch of things at 300k, including rebuilding the engine with a turbo, new suspension parts, fixing the 'ding' on the front and matching the paint--or repainting, fixing all of the little things like upholstery, etc, and dynamatting the cab. I suppose I should get a new muffler at some point as well.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Okay, well, I'm going to order the parts.

Will update on how things go.

 

love that color!

 

I agree, beautiful color! Sorry , wish I had some insight but I’ve never changed out my U-joints so I wouldn’t have a clue. I’m also in the fixing her up as new stage and U-joints are on that list. I plan on keeping her along time. Good luck in your endeavors!

 

Thanks!

I've been researching parts for a while here, before I bite the bullet.

So far, I think I'll get the U-joint spider kits from Amazon. They're genuine parts and $47 per set, shipped, so I think that's a no-brainer. (0437160070 x2)

As for the propeller shaft yoke, I found a genuine part for just under $100, shipped. I can cope with that. (37315-35040)


The part that I'm having a hard time with is the center support bearing. According to what I've read, the aftermarket parts either don't have reviews, or have mixed reviews. This is not something I like to see for a part that will be responsible for holding my driveshaft in place.

The genuine part, on Amazon, is $153.90. I'm using the part number Toyota gave me (

$141 37230-35130 Toyota Clutch Bearing - 37230-35130

37230-35130), which Amazon thinks is not compatible. There are four other center support bearings offered, that seem to be the same part. (

$48 Anchor 6074 Center Support Bearing

Anchor 6074, Westar DS-5227, Beckarnley 101-7912, and PTC PRHB31)

I'm leaning toward just buying the genuine part, but I've also read on this forum, or perhaps another, that the Spicer 5002007 is the actual OEM manufacturer and their part is less than half the cost of the "genuine" part. (Also heard someone who ordered one noticed their was delivered in a Toyota bag, even.)

Going to think about this for a few more hours, since it's too late to get anything in the mail today anyway. May call around about this tomorrow, but I'm trying to click "buy" on all of this ASAP.

 

As far as the center support bearing, I just installed the Beck arnley bearing on my 2000 Tacoma and it seems to be just like OEM and works great so far. I ordered it from Rock Auto.

 

I just priced out lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods, lower ball joints and both cv axles. (Upper control arm I’m getting aftermarket from Total Chaos, they replace the ball joint with a uni-ball.) All OEM Parts are close to $2k with install from the stealership. Being that I’m going on a cross country road trip I want to make sure that’s all done right. I just greased my U-joints for the 1st time since I’ve had my truck. 3+years hence why my U-joints are also on that list. As far as parts go, I try and go w/ oem as much as possible unless the aftermarket company part far outweighs oem such as Fox shocks , Deaver springs, Total Chaos UCAs ect ect.

 

Welcome in Jonathan!! Awesome color and of course its even more awesomer on a 1st Gen=Best Gen!!!

 

That's interesting. If Rock Auto sells it, that's a good sign. I will do a little more digging on that brand.

I agree. The plan, so far, is to stick with OEM on these stock parts. If I can verify the Spicer is in fact the OEM Toyota uses--and it's the correct part--I will go with that.

The color has grown on me. When I first got it, I thought it looked too 90s, especially with the 'splash'-style decals along the sides, but I think I'll stick with it. If I'm lucky, I'll find a matching front-right fender when I replace the one that got a little too close to a minivan in 2015.

 

I'm glad I didn't order yesterday. They say "measure twice, cut once", so I decided to go out and have another look under the truck today, just in case.

I got something completely backward. The damaged bearing surface is on the propeller shaft u-joint sleave, not the rear propeller shaft yoke. Glad I checked, or I'd have ordered the wrong part.

Toyota provided me with part # 37302-35050, which is $186 through them and $140 or so through ToyotaPartsDeal.com. Probably going to order that part, as I doubt anyone has an OEM option, like Spicer, etc.

Then, on another thread, I saw the

$29 Spicer 5-1310-1X U-Joint Kit 1310/SPL22 Series (OSR)

Spicer 5-1310-1X U-Joint kit, which goes for $22.86 (x2), half the price of the

$69 Toyota 04371-60070 Universal Joint

Toyota 04371-60070 U-joint kit. ($47.00 x2) I am under the impression that Spicer is the OEM for a lot of Toyota driveshaft parts, so it looks like a good option, although the grease fitting is in a completely different location and they look slightly different.

Lastly, I'm still puzzling over the driveshaft center support bearing. As aforementioned, the Toyota part is

$141 37230-35130 Toyota Clutch Bearing - 37230-35130

37230-35130 and goes for $153.90 on Amazon. While there are a few other OEM options, I can't seem to find one that's a perfect match, so I may just end up getting the genuine part.

Also mentioned on the other thread was the

$100 Spicer 211750-1X Center Bearing

Spicer 211750-1X Center Bearing. Amazon (whom I don't immediately trust on things like this) says the part won't fit but they are probably tight because the measurements are completely different. Spicer part is 7.2 x 5.4 x 3.2 inches / 1.8 lbs, while the Toyota part (37230-35130) is 4 x 4 x 2.8 inches / 4.7 lbs.


This whole project looked a lot easier at the outset. At this point, I'm leaning toward just buying all genuine parts for around $350, just to be on the safe side, since I haven't been able to really verify anything from a third part will fit, including the Beckarnley 101-7912 center support, which has different measurements. (8.2 x 4.2 x 4.2, 1.61 lbs.)

I'm learning things though. Once I've gone through the whole truck and repaired/upgraded everything, I'll really have a handle on the 1st generation Tacomas.

 

I spoke with the dealership a few times, looking further into this whole thing. On two occasions, they told me they were sure the 04371-60070 u-joints would be the correct part for all four needing replacement.

They were wrong. Oh well, I had had it at this point, so I called around to a few driveline shops and picked one that sounded like they knew what they were doing and brought everything to them to rebuild everything right. Near the end of this process, I realized the newly rebuilt driveshaft would need to be balanced anyway.

I pick up the basically new driveshaft tomorrow and I'll post some before/after pics. As an aside, if anyone needs some new u-joints, I'll sell you the extra pair I have for $80, shipped. Going to throw them on eBay soon, otherwise.

I'm really looking forward to getting this out of the way. My poor truck has been sitting in the carport for a while, but at least this little spider that put up a web from the hood to the front of the carport has been making use of it while it pollen piles on top of the teal paint.

Next steps are clutch, valve adjustment (and cover gaskets), and also fixing a bunch of small things I've been putting off for entirely too long.

 

Long story short, I trusted others to grease the thing. Never again. It doesn't take much to get under there and do it right yourself.

Last year, I drove the truck through a lot of water, crossing streams often--and my theory, is that was the straw the broke the camel's back. If I had been diligent in greasing the points, this probably never would've happened. Ironically, the one that is hardest to find (centering ball grease point), ended up being okay. I also think the valves were clogged with dirt.

When I get the assembly back tomorrow, it will be in brand-new condition. (They're even painting it, after stripping every part individually.) I intend to try to keep it that way from here on out.

 

Tomorrow will tell, I suppose. The guy I spoke with seemed very familiar with this procedure, having done a lot of work on Toyotas.

 

Truck drives great. Worth every penny, although I sort of wish I had just taken it to this shop in the first place...

Here are some photos:
BEFORE

AFTER

The shop (Rotter Webster - N. Portland) did a very good job. If you zoom in, you can see where they added balancing weights. I asked Brian, the guy that I dealt with, how they refurbish the centering ball and he said it's best to grease things up a little so things stay in their places--and use a flat-head screwdriver to carefully place the pins back in their correct positions.
I may be forgetting a detail or two here because I was starting to have visions of driving my truck again. After driving a borrowed 90s minivan for a while, I really look forward to getting back on the road with my pickup.

It bolted up rather easily. I torqued the carrier bearing at 27 ft. lbs. and the front and rear to 65 and that was it. It's probably coming off again in the near future when I put a new clutch in, at which point I'll probably add a little blue Loctite to everything.

For anyone looking into doing this yourself, it can be done with the right parts, but I figure the balancing will always need to be done professionally, unless you're only replacing the u-joints, in which case I suppose you could get away without having to involve a shop, etc.

 

I realize this is an older thread, but I thought I would add my 2¢ having replaced everything concerning the driveshaft on my 03 Doublecab Prerunner. The center support bearing, buying OEM is the way to go but if you're in a bind adding a tube of RTV gasket maker sealant in between the rubber and outer metal cage. (Not inside where bearing is). The object is to add more rigidity of rubber cushion which is the main difference between OEM & AutoZone type parts. Always mark the driveshaft before disassembly, all pieces including flanges I mark 1234 on all flanges for bolts. All zerts should be aligned in the same orientation. If your shaft has the double joint make sure drive shaft shop doesn't cut it too short. After about 3 repairs there isn't enough shaft so new shaft piece is needed. I thought I was losing it when my shaft was ½in too short upon install after having new joints installed. Hope this helps sum1 .