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Parasitic battery drain

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by philco66, Mar 17, 2018.

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Electrical parasitic drain

  1. Diode Location

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  2. Integration Relay location

    2 vote(s)
    100.0%
  1. Mar 17, 2018 at 4:05 PM
    #1
    philco66

    philco66 [OP] New Member

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    Hi, I have a 2004 Tacoma crew cab 4-WD
    There has been a battery drain in the electrical system since I have owned it. Lately, I believe that it has gotten worse.
    I have narrowed it down to the 15A dome fuse under the hood which goes to the Dome Light Circuit. When I pull that fuse the drain on the system stops. I have a Haynes repair manual that shows me it controls Power windows, Locks and courtesy lighting incl. dome and personal lighting.
    I have disconnected all door switches, power window controls,pulled all fuses, under the dash, pulled all relays that I can find and the power drain is still there.
    I am looking for 2 components.
    1. Integration Relay
    2.Diode

    I can see them on the Haynes wiring diagram but don't know the location inside the truck.
    Any Suggestions Please?!!?
     
  2. Mar 17, 2018 at 4:22 PM
    #2
    DaveInDenver

    DaveInDenver Not Actually in Denver

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    I believe your Haynes manual may be incorrect. Early Tacomas had point to point wiring but later trucks the interior lights are controlled by the ECU. I will attach the 2003 FSM wiring section related to the dome lights.

    Anyway, the 2000 FSM has the diode and integration relay but 2003 manuals do not. Not sure which year was the change over, probably 2001 if I had to guess.

    The way to tell is if the lights slowly dim rather than just turn off or on and if they turn themselves off after a while if you leave them on. Which, BTW, have you checked that you haven't left your dome light in the 'ON' position rather than 'DOOR'? This will cause a drain but the ECU will turn it off trying to prevent your battery from going dead. You could also try making sure to use the 'OFF' position or remove all the bulbs as a test, too.

    I notice the same thing happens if I leave my headlights on in my 2008. They go off with the key, which can be overridden by turning them off and back on. Anyway, using the automatic function there's a slight drain still but it's a lot smaller than the actual headlights being on.
     

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  3. Mar 17, 2018 at 4:24 PM
    #3
    DaveInDenver

    DaveInDenver Not Actually in Denver

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    Here are the overall diagrams showing the electrical parts and connectors, this should be valid for your 2004 even though it's from a 2003 FSM.
     

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  4. Mar 17, 2018 at 4:28 PM
    #4
    DaveInDenver

    DaveInDenver Not Actually in Denver

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    BTW, if you want the FSM pages for the early Tacomas I have them in PDF, too. Those would be for reference for the integration relay and courtesy diodes, but they wouldn't apply to your 2004.
     
  5. Apr 2, 2018 at 7:22 PM
    #5
    Lester Lugnut

    Lester Lugnut Well-Known Member

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    N of Mex-S of Canada-E of LA-W of NC
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    Here's a good chunk of the FSM for 2001-2004 Tacoma

    http://web.archive.org/web/20110102225436/http://www.ncttora.com/FSM/

    Scroll down to 2001-2004 Toyota Tacoma FSM and select - Full FSM File Download(39MB) - extract it out.

    The online versions often times provide missing links - info not there. Get the Full FSM version and save it to your hard drive. Yours to keep.
     
  6. May 20, 2019 at 9:49 PM
    #6
    dpw

    dpw Well-Known Member

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    Hi Phil, did you ever chase down your battery drain?
    I have a drain I’m trying to figure out myself.

    Many Thanks,
    Dave
     
  7. May 21, 2019 at 3:35 AM
    #7
    Troyken

    Troyken Well-Known Member

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    Have you determined how many amps (milliamps) is being drawn? Have you added led bulbs in place of the originals?
     
  8. May 21, 2019 at 5:22 AM
    #8
    dpw

    dpw Well-Known Member

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    Not yet, I’m planning on putting an amp meter in series this weekend to see what I can pick up.

    I haven’t added the LEDs—truck is totally stock.
     
  9. May 26, 2019 at 5:11 PM
    #9
    dpw

    dpw Well-Known Member

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    So, like the original poster, I have a 203-220mA draw (it fluctuates) which is on the 15A dome circuit. My draw drops down to a 29-34mA with the dome fuse pulled. (Note, with everything closed/turned off except the alarm which is the state the truck would be sitting in).
    The dome light is good, draw happens when the dome light is in the off position as well.
    Trying to understand the circuit to know what is what....

    FYI: There's another thread with a similar discussion going on, so i'm split between the two on this topic. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/new-battery-drained.609219/page-2#post-20713494

    /dpw
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2019
  10. Apr 13, 2020 at 9:28 PM
    #10
    dpw

    dpw Well-Known Member

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  11. Apr 15, 2020 at 9:44 PM
    #11
    dpw

    dpw Well-Known Member

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    My draw is still at about .2A (with truck off/closed up after 30+ minutes resting). I guess my Scooby mystery continues with the Dome circuit.
    49779487686_1e48735067_c.jpg
     
  12. Apr 17, 2020 at 10:21 PM
    #12
    dpw

    dpw Well-Known Member

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    Can anybody with a "electrically stock" '03 TRD,4x4 check to see what their steady state battery draw is? From what I "hear" online is that it should be less than .05A (50mA) but I have yet to have anybody say what they get on their 1st Gen.
     
  13. Apr 17, 2020 at 10:33 PM
    #13
    tacoma_ca

    tacoma_ca Well-Known Member

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    My 04 is an SR5 but it starts after bring untouched for 4 months so I think the leakage current is acceptable. 100 mA or more is high and I like that target of <50 mA. If you don’t get a TRD measurement I can check mine.
     
  14. Apr 18, 2020 at 8:42 AM
    #14
    dpw

    dpw Well-Known Member

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    @tacoma_ca, Thanks! I'll be curious to see what you're at if it's not too much trouble. A 4months cold start is awesome.

    I feel like I've become a slave to my parasitic drain,,,
    Just a year ago I could let my Tacoma sit for easily a two week + work trip, now it can't sit for more than a long weekend without it killing the battery. (even a new battery)
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2020
  15. Apr 19, 2020 at 12:57 PM
    #15
    Volvo_Expert

    Volvo_Expert Member

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    The worldwide maximum spec of stand by current is .030.

    If you are over .03 and its from the dome light circuit and verified by pulling that fuse and dropping below .030, check the visor lights and glove box lights.
     
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  16. Apr 19, 2020 at 2:35 PM
    #16
    tacoma_ca

    tacoma_ca Well-Known Member

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    Within a few seconds of connecting, the ammeter settled to 10mA and stayed there for around an hour until I disconnected it today. The truck does have a flashing red LED on the dash, that may have been most of the drain. I suppose this measurement indicates the factory onboard electronics are a pretty light load, which is good to know.

    B79AEEDB-C10E-4B2A-A89E-B6B31A627D6F.jpg
     
  17. Apr 19, 2020 at 9:23 PM
    #17
    dpw

    dpw Well-Known Member

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    @Volvo_Expert: thanks. Yeah, I’ve always heard below 50mA is good rule of thumb but haven't seen what stock tacoma should run coming off the factory line. I'm well above that....

    Funny you should mention the glove box light... My glove box light is out (has been for 10 years tho) even though I didn't know I had one until last summer. Perhaps it's time to try and replace that tiny bulb although I've read it's a "tiny" PITA.

    There's a funny thread about it already... https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/glove-box-light.309627/page-3
     
  18. Apr 19, 2020 at 9:34 PM
    #18
    dpw

    dpw Well-Known Member

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    @tacoma_ca: 10mA!! That's great! I'm far from that sitting at 210mA. Sounds like you've got a solid electrical system from what I can tell (I'm not a EE or anything). Please knock on some wood for me.

    Thanks so much for checking your system... now I have something to shoot for!
     
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  19. Apr 19, 2020 at 9:38 PM
    #19
    dpw

    dpw Well-Known Member

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    Any other 1st Gen'ers out there care to share what they resting electrical draw is at?
     
  20. Apr 19, 2020 at 10:20 PM
    #20
    tacoma_ca

    tacoma_ca Well-Known Member

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    Yeah over 100 mA you should really find the drain. If I had that draw and couldn’t find it, I’d put a relay after that fuse to disconnect that circuit when the truck is off. Then drive that relay with the same signal which drives the EFI relay, which is the signal from the key ‘on’ position. Then anything that needs power more steadily just wire into a different circuit.
     
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