Custom Switch Panels

Well I guess I will be getting this haha

 

Random question following this and trying to envision my layout - are the CH4 switches visibly different than the OEM? Brighter or tinted different? Feel like my OCD wouldnt like a mix of OEM vs CH4 if they are visibly different so thinking of how to cluster them with MESO panels.

 

Unfortunately, they are different (at least the ones I've used are.) The CH switches are actually blue, not the light pale blue that factory switches are. They are also somewhat brighter, but that can always be fixed if you're willing.

 

You can order their switches with different color LEDs but if you can solder SMD's you can swap them yourself. Then it's a matter of finding some you like, there are plenty of choices out there.

 

+2 for that ^

The switches everyone stocks will be a brighter blue, but time, money, knowledge, and/or knowing someone with those things, can get any color switch you want!

 

Understood - thanks everyone. I dont mind they are blue as I will just colocate them all on one board and have all the OEM on another board - I'm not that crazy that I need them all the same, just prefer the cluster to look all similar.

 

That's the ticket right there!

 

I am right there with you.

I may possibly a step further as I am OCD both by nature and profession. I still feel it should not be referred to as Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder.

Correct referencing should be CDO, then it becomes Correcting Disorder Obsession. This way it is mathematically, alphabetically, and descriptively correct.

Not that I am overly OCD or anything.

 

AirOnBoard got in new switches that match the OEM toyota blue

https://www.aironboard.com/online/catalogsearch/result/index/?limit=80&q="new+blue"

 

Well hot damn! Good looking out!

 

here are the files for the joy sticks.
awaiting your reply.
Mechanomatic.

 

Well I finally got around to installing the switch panels today. Thanks to the dude that had posted up the how to on this thread. It's also good thing that I had experience as a stereo and alarm installer in the past. I also installed the rear-view camera set up that Logistics sells. I used my own switch out of China along with the ones from mictuning. The two time-consuming parts were setting up a wiring to bring the rear window to the center panel and pulling off all the plastic pieces. As for cutting I used a cut off wheel, a file, and also a soldering iron at points. I used epoxy as recommended and only did it on the 3 mounting tabs. However at one point the bottom one wanted to keep popping out. So with that I ended up just using superglue to hold it in. I might regret it later but I did Plasti Dip the center plastic piece because I feel it did not match my left side pod well. Plus I figured that I already had plasti dipped my radio surround white and that is holding up pretty well.

 

@Volksparts how did you extend the wiring for the window switch? Im looking to do the same...

 

Cut and add wire. It's that simple. Yes it sucks you have to cut the factory wiring but that's the only way to do it that I can think of. Unless you get factory reverse harness and harness. I had bought one of those mixed wiring boxes from harbor freight awhile ago and low and behold I had the same color wires in that box that matched the factory colors. So I just matched them for ease of identification. Then at the end of the wires I connected it to the factory plug I had cut. You can either solder or what I like to use is butt connectors I get from Amazon that you can heat shrink. This is also a great time to wire up the illumination for other switches when adding the wire which is the brownish tan stock wire into your switches themselves. I also could've connected the 12 volt accessory of the switches from the pink red stock wire but decided to run a fused wire directly to the fuse block with an add a fuse. Also coming off that same rear window plug is the white with black lined wire which is the ground. So essentially yes I cut but it gave me access to also wire in my left side switches at the same time. And the remaining accessory wire went to the accessory.

 

in for LSP7- 7 Switch Hole when back in stock.

 

Looks really clean. I really want to move that slider to the center as well, but i really dont want to break any trim inside the cab. Already broke a clip changing the tweeter. Was it straight forward and easy or fragile and complicated?

 

Awesome! Thanks for the info, I knew I would have to cut, just didn't know how difficult it would be

 

I think if you take your time, have a set of panel poppers, maybe a cordless drill will socket attachment ( but not necessary), and use the step by step another guy provided then that helps. Again as mentioned before i was a stereo installer 17 years ago. Two tips, one being to take off the ebrake boot I released the bottom part of it with the L-shaped retaining wire from under the console which made it easier as the handle doesn't come off easily. The other was on the "step by step" on the passenger air bag it circled a bolt or something to remove but I couldn't find it but was still able to ease out that center panel with everything else removed. Also try not to scratch up your panels. I later had to do the heat gun trick on some of the scratches I made but couldn't remove all of them.
Lastly, now that I think about it. This is definitely for the do it yourselfer. You have to be comfortable with handling your wiring, have tools to cut your stock trim, having all your wiring connectors with tools, and have time set aside I did my left side one day and the center part another. It can easily be done in one day but I didn't want to feel rushed. I also installed Led foot lights at the same time I got from Amazon for $20 and setup the button on the left life panel.

 

All that wire. I like it.

 

Oh and just wanted to post this picture of the button for the reverse camera being pushed at the same time as my button for the rear rooftop flood lights and what I see at night.