Cutting tube steel

I just got a welder and am learning to fabricate metal to eventually build a slide-in camper for my Taco. I have built a camper from scratch out of wood before on an old pop-up frame, but was able to manage by just using a 4.5" angle grinder for cuts and having a friend weld. I'm planning on building the slide-in out of 1" and 2" tube steel, so there will be a LOT more cutting and getting good, straight cuts is an absolute need.

I have a spare Ryobi compound mitre saw. It has a clamp on it and cuts wood well, so I thought about getting a metal cutting blade and using that. It would have to be better than an angle grinder, right?

Another option is a chop saw, or a handheld band saw I can see the chop saw working, but the internet tells me they don't cut any more square than someone with a steady hand with a handheld band saw or angle grinder. Ideally, I'd get something like this: but my garage is basically full and I don't want to spend that much more on tooling to start this project.

What do you use, and what do you think would work well enough to get the job done? Should I just stick with the angle grinder?

 

I bought the harbor freight model...but at the time the only one available was purple...but anyhow it cuts square you just have to tighten up the clamp bolts and when you go to cut let it get up to speed and let it cut a little at a time otherwise it slows down too much. I replaced the cutting blade with a good one from homedepot since the original didnt last very long. The ends have a little leftover metal from cutting but can be easily ground off with a grinder or file.

 

Thanks wilcam. I ended up with this: -- it's probably similar to what you have. We'll see how it goes when I get time to work on it.

 

Get a proper bandsaw. Everything else is just being cheap. I have done the grinder thing, the abrasive chop saw and won't go back. The bandsaw set up correctly with stands set right is more accurate and my cuts are square. Then your fabricating really speeds up. Quicker cuts. Quicker setup. Your parts line up easier and square up with less BS. Since your cuts are square from the get go once you tack stuff it doesn't need to be adjusted on as frequent a basis.

The number one answer to buying better tools is I don't have the money right now. Then later on after fighting with their tools people buy the right equipment and wish they did it sooner. People realize their projects turn out better with less effort.

 

For tube or rebar. Hard to beat.

Makita LC1230, carbide blade.



For a clean look, Williams LowBuck Tools tube notcher.

 

Used both to build this chair. 18g Owner decided she didn’t want to sit on it. To each their own!

What I like about the Mak is the 45° miter capability. Sweet machine.

 

maybe steampunk fan?

 

I was way cool with it.

Hell, no one can sit on this one. Kept this one.

 

Not gonna lie... I thought this post was titled "Cutting Tube Steak" And I was click-baited in.

 

Be careful to make sure that if you buy an abrasive chop saw that you don’t use carbide tipped blades in it that are meant for a dry cut saw

They run at completely different RPM’s (Abrasive chop saw around 3000 rpm and dry cut saw around 1200 rpm) and aren’t made to switch blades between them

I have the dewalt 14” multicutter dry cut saw for cutting tubing and I love it. The blades also last a long time compared to an abrasive chop saw blade. They’re quite a bit more expensive but much better.

Problem with an abrasive chop saw is that the blades are sort of flimsy and bend a little so they don’t make the straightest cuts in my opinion.

The LC1230 Makita that @Topanga Taco mentioned is a great tool! And if you want super straight cuts and have the room for it, a gravity horizontal band saw would be the best way to go. Almost no mess and a little slow but very straight cuts!

 

After rereading your original post OP, if you want to save money and just get the best bang for your buck I think that an abrasive chop saw would be your best bet. Definitely cuts straighter than anything hand held. You’re able to lock in the tubing in a fence and cut perfectly downward in a straight motion. I think it’s much harder to get a handheld band saw or angle grinder to be perfectly straight

 

I just bought a carbide blade for my chop saw. My saw runs at 3600rpm. I found a carbide saw for aluminum that is rated to 5000rpm. My only issue is the chips. I have to build a rear collection housing that I can hook my shop vac to. The aluminum chips are so fine they float and go everywhere.

 

Wear breathing protection. That you mention sounds like when I have to cut magnesium. Stuff “floats” as you mentioned. That airborne stuff is not good for the lungs.

 

drinking chair

 

A hahahaha! That would get them feeling just about right!

 

what material did you use?

 

18 gauge tube steel straight and mandrel pieces. Wire brushed and shot with clear coat.

 

A bit of a reboot but I'll still give my response.
What I do is mark the length then tighten a hose clamp around the tube and use it to mark all the way around at the correct length (loosen and reposition if needed) using a fine tip permanent marker. Then use a grinder with a thin cutting disc to cut along the line rotating the tube to cut it.
I get much better/straighter cut than I do by using my chop saw.

 

I have the Makita LC1230 and it is pretty awesome.

 

One of Kita’s All time greats for sure.

I cut .160” galvanized pipe that I use to stake the railroad ties around here. It’ll cut rebar with ease, just go slow on the big stuff. It’s a spark free environment for the most part. Towards the end of the blade’s life however, it will begin to spark, but moderately. The carbide cutters have a strong life to them but do make a loud cut. So safety gear at ALL TIMES.