TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Today's episode is replaying on A&E right now.

Think of COPS on steroids.

 

It's unfortunate that the Arizona State Troopers declined contract renewal with Live PD. I really liked several of the Troopers.

 

I didnt know that happened. Bummer now I cant see tweakers down the street

 

Meh. All those shows are fake news.

 

Per request I'm reposting this here. Any suggestions or corrections welcome.

I searched many different forums and spent a couple hours trying to figure out which belt I should get, what size belt, how to do the swap, blah, blah, blah. The point is, I am sharing the fruits of my labor with you!

This is for the TRD/Magnuson supercharger for the 4.0L V6 Tacoma 2005-15.

Belt Needed:
70.5 in, 5 rib

Possible Belts you could use:
-Goodyear gatorback got re branded to Continental elite. part # 4050705
-Dayco Poly Rib belt, Premium Part # 5050705
-Gates Micro V Part # K050705/5PK1793
-Toyota Part# PTR30-35040

Personal Experience:
-I have been running a Gates micro V for the past 5K miles or so. Tons of cracks, did not hold up well. Switching to Continental Elite soon.

-I haven't done the swap yet, but since the dealership is trying to charge me $180 for a simple swap; I will be soon.

-I would also recommend treating your new belt with some kind of rubber protectant before hand.


Install How To:
Video shows belt swap after pulley swap.

In case the clickable link doesn't work https://youtu.be/gSrhiG-cKo8?t=5m54s

This video says it's a 12mm nut, but going over the manual it seem this is not the case. For those of you who have done this before. What size are the nuts?

Steps:
1)Remove skid plate to access tensioner from underside. All access will be through the underside and potentially the drivers side wheel well.
2)Loosen tensioner (1/2 in square drive) and remove belt from pulley located on supercharger (will probably need a friend or loved one for this part)
3)Remove the 2 M8 (per manual) bolts from the tensioner support bracket (this piece is mounted on the inside diameter of the belt, one bolt is on the tensioner, the other is on the ac compressor)
4)Remove the tensioner bracket (2 M10 bolts per manual)and remove old belt.
5)Slide New belt in from top, place in upper pulleys
6)Reroute belt down through engine
7)Reinstall tensioner assembly (torque 2 M10 nuts to 29ft lbf)
8)Reinstall support bracket (torque tensioner nut first, then acc nut to 19ft lbf)
9)Make sure belt is routed correctly.
10)Loosen tensioner and place belt on tensioner pulley
11)Put skid plate back on

 

I use a 69.5 inch belt. Which can be found in this thread. I also access the tensioner from the top. No assembly/ disassembly required

 

This is why the 4runners (I can only speak for the Offroad model) is so much nicer than the tacomas... They are still built in Japan an sent here

 

How do yo manage that? The tensioner support bracket runs right through the middle of the belt?

 

Breaker bar? I use a 1/2 breaker bar. Pops right in the tensioner.

 

So you do still take that off. You just use a long ass wrench is what you're saying. I'm talking about the bracket that goes from the tensioner to the ac compressor.

 

I dont take anything off. No socket, just the wrench. Pop it in, release tension, remover belt and install new one. I left my steel skid on. Just reached up through and got the belt lined up.

 

There is a bracket that is installed as he stated. It does make it a pita to change the belt. Maybe it's not needed and why you dont have yours installed. Maybe I should remove mine in case I need to change my belt in the middle of nowhere.

 

And why the have less problems.

 

You know what, it just occurred to me that you could easily swap the belt without removing the whole tensioner assembly. Just that little bracket. Damn.

 

Exactly! The bracket is the only thing making the belt change problematic.

 

Actually hold up. I'm getting confused. I think the bracket only runs through the main serpentine belt. Not the supercharger belt. SO you don't even need to remove the bracket, like GT7 said. you would just have to feed the belt in between the tensioner and the idler pulley. Then you could route it around the crank and the lowest idler pulley. I think .

 

I totally agree with you. Japan still has very high work control standards.

Similar to TBI. It's effective and it is a very simple design. Of course don't talk to GM about their longevity.

I wish it was that easy. The entire tensioner assembly has to be removed. No other way around it.

This ^^

Yeah no I have analyzed it. It HAS to come off to change the belt. A redesign would be cool and very time saving for swapping belts.

 

My belt is 2 years old lol.

Probably ready for a change.

Doing some window shopping here..

Glow shift 10 color black
-dual intake temp (like the before/after charge cooler as above)
-digital boost/vacuum (but i like the 15 psi analog, just picked it for a match)
-ambient air (2015 yo)

Glow shift 7 color
-water temp (toyota gauge is grey area)
-oil (curious, probably use a sandwich plate)

Innovative
-3891 aka DLG1

Snow performance
-212 w 2.5 gallon (recommended above)

You Arrre Deeee
-spec U headers
-y pipe
-fuel pump kit w AEM 320
-o2 sim
-suregrip 2.8, yeah I really want that quick change but I just can't cut my snout just yet.

With the snow kit, how do you think buying a throttle body spacer, and drilling the nozzle into it.. that puts me right after the TB plate before the blower and keeps me from drilling in the blower, other than the cooler lid for temp sensors.

Also, for gauges I am thinking boost/afr over wheel (cant think of the brand for that mount)

Oil and water temp in front of the shifter

Ambient and intake air at the useless sunglasses cubby

I already have a RX75 plus pro in the upper left. And a cobra dash cam near the mirror, and hopkins insight progressive brake ratio monitor in bottom corner near A pillar, manual trigger near shifter.

Already have the TRD catback stockn stock air box, no intent to change it currently

Any thoughts? Or experiences? I have never bought or used glow shift. I did not like thier dual afr kit, it said it only reads up/down to 10:1

 

Consult gadget about the 02sim.

It doesnt work well with certain years.

 

Interesting!

I surely will, thanks for the heads up! I wonder why.