The Lair

I like that first one. With the second you will just be fishing those french fries out of the pocket. Although, the fries in there could come in handy when you are low on change and need a snack a couple days later.

That first one is the first I've seen that goes around the seat belt. That is a neat feature. It comes with a free anti slide sticky pad and a free flashlight. Free shit is always cool!

 

That's what I was thinking too! But the pocket one may look a little tacky. Like I may start storing unnecessary shit there just because I can and it'll be cluttered.

Yeah that's what I was leaning towards. Just needed someone to push me in that direction. Ordered!

 

Yea, the one with the pockets reminds me of those organisers you hang on the barcalounger for all your remote controls.
Hell, now ya got me thinking I need one of these. LOL

 

Wife and I were in the truck the other night and she dropped her phone down in the carmuda, and my friend did the same thing a couple days prior! That's when I knew these would be useful.

 

What do you need help with?
what do you mean you don't like the plug on the 8 gauge one? Electrical plugs are designed differently for each Amperage they can handle. The first one that @EatSleepTacos linked to, the yellow cord, is only rated for 15amps because thats the type of male and female end that are on it. the wire itself is rated for 30amps. Randy could have gotten his in a 50 foot cord and be ok. It's just that the limiting factor is the household wiring. I believe in his case it's still only 15 amps.

To further my point, if all your house receptacles have the round ground hole and then the 2 flat blades running parallel to each other vertically, thats a 15A plug. If, by chance, your kitchen counter or maybe even bathroom receptacle (the gfci with the test and reset buttons) has the same ground, 2 verticle flat blades, but one of the blades has a notch to allow that side to accept a horizontal blade, than thats rated for 20amps. You ever see a dryer receptacle? They're rated for 30 amps. it has 2 different configurations based on if the dryer needs 120 volts or not. dryers need 240volts, but some dryers need the neutral to create 120volts for whatever lights they have on the button panel. Same goes with the oven receptacles, 2 different configs, but its different than a dryer recept. It's designed this way so that you can't plug a dryer into a range receptacle, and vice versa.

USUALLY every plug has some stamping on it to tell you what its rated for, you can see in this picture that it says 30A - 125/250V

this is a 30 amp, 4 wire dryer receptacle. the 4 wires are ground (the round-ish hole), the neutral (the dog leg hole), and 2 hots (the side holes)

better to be looking at it, than looking for it.

did you plug those male ends in just to plug them in? lol.

People need to realize, its not that he wired 240 volts. if you're adding a sub-panel, you will, by default, get 240volts. 240v comes from the 2 hot legs in the wire. the 120v comes from one hot leg and the neutral. imagine holding a meter in your hand. one lead goes on one hot wire, the other lead goes on the different hot wire. you will see 240v on the meter. now leave one hand there and move the other hand to the neutral bar, or to the ground bar. you will see 120v.

if you have a subpanel, it's automatically 240v. The thing we decide when running sub panels is how many amps do you need. I'm wiring both @loosnut and @Blackout14 garages with a subpanel. They have similar wants in terms of electrical use inside the garage, but not the same. One garage is bigger, one is smaller. One will have heat, the other will have less heat. both have welders and both have air compressors. One garage I am running a wire capable of 80amps, the other is going to get 50amps. both will have, by default, 240volts.




@EatSleepTacos here is a house fire. this happened the block behind my last flip. I know they're rowhomes. I know they're attached. But fire will jump. In this case, the center house had an electrical fire. I doubt they were welding, probably just a lamp cord extension cord under a rug that wore out over time. my point is that the fire spread to the neighbor houses and fucked them up too. Don't take chances you're not willing to pay for later.

 

We are doing my rear suspension on sunday. this is the extension cord I am temporarily making for a welder. its going from a generator which has a 30amp twist lock style plug to a welder with a 50 amp plug on it. Even though the welder plug is 50amps, I feel ok using thr 10 gauge wire. I read over the cut sheet (the specs) for the welder and it never goes above 30amp. IIRC, normal operating was somewhere in the low 20amp range.

I'm not making it 25 feet... I'm using that wire for my dryer in my apartment, then whatever's left will be the cord. we're using a generator so its movable...

 

I think i showed you my holes.......









had it wired 30amp wiring, 115v plug, so it can handle the Hobart 140. I just dont like the flat style plug vs the "standard" one that goes straight out. Im not wired for 220, and the electrician originally put it in, but I told him to take it out, since I know the welder had a 115v plug

 

You'll want the flat style. It's so annoying that my wire barely stays in the plug.

 

your holes were forgettable

so the wire is great, but the plug you dont like? why dont you like the plug? it matches your welder, correct?

 

He's saying he doesn't like that it's at a 90 degree angle.

 

ohhh. well tough shit. change the end then

 

yeah I saw that and deleted the post you quoted too fast for me bro

 

here ya go @fatfurious2 maybe try this?



edit, no don't try this.

 

I have a dedicated outlet for the welder. Dont need to add a bunch of fancy stuff.. especially to confuse me more

 

if you don't like something, change it. that is all

 

heres a thought. get a "bubble cover" or an "in use" cover. it had a lid that allows the cord to be plugged in and the lid covers it. the lid should keep out the rain, but also keep the plug plugged in