1 Switch for Powering 2 30" LED Bars?

That works too. Per their instructions.

 

It's not intimidating at all. Install the two lightbars with their two respective wiring harnesses like normal. Cali raised has their own instructions for this. Instead of running two switches for each harness, only install one switch and only plug one of the two harnesses into the switch. The picture shows the contacts for A1/A2 (coil) on the relay. You want to splice a wire going from A1 of relay1 to A1 of relay2, and A2 of relay1 to A2 of relay2.

 

ah I see I see, Thanks!

 

Hello,

Sorry for the late response, but yes they both use the same harness that is provided with each bar

 

I’m not sure if you got around to mounting this all up yet, but did the SDHQ mount work for the 32” Cali raised light bars? I’m looking to run the same setup

 

Not yet, my money is going to my DIY drawers at the moment. Soon enough tho!

 

Do you know if anyone else has run this setup?

 

I do not. I have looked around online and found some vids of people doing it with various brand bars. And from all the knowledge on this site, it sounds like it will not be an issue. Go for it and report back

 

I, like @Doozy4212 , am intimidated by any wiring and panicked that I'll screw something up when I eventually get my Taco. I seriously want to install the same light bar under the grille and a smaller one in the Sport Scoop, er skewp for those anti-scewpers, and use just one switch in the cab. I'll probably ask some the more experienced San Diego guys for assistance which I'm sure that a case of beer will comp their efforts.

 

My Mictuning wiring harness that I got off Amazon for my 30" light bar came pre-wired with an extra set of leads for a second set of lights/light bar if need be. Thought that was great for future needs. It was only like 10.00 I think.

$10 MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O72R7Z8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

That is valuable info! Thanks @okichewy1

 

The harness comes with a on/off toggle switch, but I just wired it into a Toyota style push button switch, no issues.

 

Hello, here’s the dimensions of our 32” bar so you can see the end cap to end cap measurements

 

I think the dimensions are missing

 

you will have have to mod the plastic behind your grill to get a 32" to fit in the SDHQ mount, from experience. When SDHQ says 30" they mean 30". Only people that make a 30 are BajaDesigns, Rigid, and Vision X. All other '30"' light bars are actually 32"

 

Buy the Rigid Industries backup harness, up the included fuse accordingly (has a fuse holder and comes with 15amp I believe). Tap into the high beam line for the reverse side of the relay. Viola; you have 2 light bars that can come on automatically with high beam, off full time, or on full time. I used this setup on my old jeep and ran a 20" E2 and a 50" SR light bar, never had any issues with overload. Or if you want to just buy a dually harness it has the two plugs as well and upgrade the fuse. Both work well and I have used in the past but the 3 position is my favorite by far.

 

@Doozy4212

Here's some wiring help for you.

A relay is basically another kind of switch. It just uses power to activate the switch. You typically use relays to turn high-powered devices (higher amps) on and off from the engine bay, vs. inside the cab. I always advise to only run low power wire into the cab.

This diagram kinda explains what a relay function is:



Here is how to wire one up:



In this case, the relay will be numbered at each terminal, and you can see those numbers above.

#85 goes to a ground in the engine bay somewhere.

#30 is the power cable from your battery - this should be fused as close to the battery as possible, using an appropriate fuse. i.e. if your peak load is say 10A, use a 15A fuse. This way if something goes wrong, the fuse will trip before your wire burns up.

#86 is power from the switch inside the cab - it doesn't take very much power to trip the relay.

#87 is the power cable to your accessory - your light bars.

From your switch you typically have a few connections depending on the switch. The most basic is Ground / Power Input / Power Output terminals. The input is switched so that when off, nothing is going over the output, but when turned on, it goes over the output to the relay to flip it on. This allows power to flow through the relay to your light bar.

Now, there are other switches that have additional leads for a lighted face or whatever. The switch should come with a wiring diagram. As for where to get your power input, it can be any 12V supply that is on when either the vehicle accessory switch is on, ignition is on, or on all the time depending on if you want the switch to be able to turn on the light with the truck on or off, etc.

As for can you run 2 LED light bars with the same switch - YES you can. As mentioned, if there is a pre-made harness, tie both #86 wires from each realy together and hook those to the power output from your switch inside the cab.

However, you COULD run both with a single relay if the load for both of them together does not exceed 40A which is the typical amperage rating of a relay. This would mean less wires but you would probably need to modify the harnesses yourself.

Regardless, when doing your own wiring, always use relays and never run high power lines through the firewall. This will prevent really bad things like the wire starting on fire INSIDE the cab causing it to fill with smoke or setting the carpet/headliner, etc. on fire. Using a proper fuse should also prevent the wire from getting to this point when it is under the hood. It might fry your light but it should pop the fuse before anything too bad happens.