Electrical problems after moving old trailer p0705

Helped a buddy move a trailer recently and the trailer must of had some funky wiring. Shorted out a bunch of functions. P0705 code accompanied by the following symptoms

1) Wont shift out of park without the using the manual override switch.
2) No turn signals
3) No reverse lights
4) SRS airbag light on
5) PRNDL switch wont switch to 3, 2 and L. If in any of those 3 gears it acts like its in D. Gear indicator light on cluster not working. No hesitation going in D or R.

I fixed #1 and #2 by replacing the IG1 fuse on the driver kick panel but #3, #4 and #5 are still a problem.

All my plugs on the transmission look good and free of corrosion. Went under and cleaned each one with electrical spray cleaner.

Following TSB-0277-09 I checked the Junction box #1 and DD connector for water and corrosion and found none. http://www.scribd.com/doc/18857706/T-SB-0277-09

I also removed the center console and cleaned all the white electrical plugs leading to the PRNDL switch. I found no corrosion.

I'm stumped, going to Pismo this weekend and I could use a fully functional shifter.

 

My guess there is another fuse blown somewhere. Have you checked all the fuses in the kick panel? And under the hood?

 

Yea I took my meter and ran through all fuses in both panels last night and it all checked out. I read there are additional fuses behind a tail light so I'll look at that next.

 

Somebody is pulling your leg. I have never seen a fuse behind a tail light, unless it is aftermarket.

 

You're right, the wiring must of been an aftermarket trailer harness install. I checked and my lights don't have any behind them.

I went back to Junction box 1 and the DD connector and had a second look. I took out the box and opened it up. Its just a junction box full of pins and leads. I thought it had more electronics in here but I was wrong. Everything is spotless inside.cleaner.

I dont want to pay $1500 for a harness job, any ideas?

 

Does anyone know how to test the PRNDL switch?

 

This could help you A LOT:

Link: http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...yrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/0280013.pdfWhat trips the code:

DTC Detection Conditions
When any one of following conditions (A) to (C) is met (2-trip detection
logic):
(A) Any 2 or more signals of the following are ON simultaneously
• NSW input signal is ON.
• R input signal is ON.
• D input signal is ON.
• 3 input signal is ON.
• 2 input signal is ON.

(B) All switches are OFF simultaneously for P (NSW), R, N (NSW), D,
3 and 2 positions

(C) When NSW or R input signal is ON, 4 or L input signal is ON

MONITOR DESCRIPTION
The DTC indicates a problem with the park/neutral position switch and the wire harness in the park/neutral
position switch circuit.
For security, the park/neutral position switch detects the shift lever position so that the engine can be
started only when the vehicle is in the P or N shift position.
When the park/neutral position switch sends more than one signal at a time from switch positions P, R, N,
D, 3 or 2, the ECM interprets this as a fault in the switch. The ECM will turn on the MIL and store the DTC.

Condition A:
Number of the following signals input at the same time 2 or more

Park/neutral position switch ON
R switch ON
D switch ON
3 switch ON
2 switch ON

Condition B:
All of the following conditions cause a code:

Park/neutral position switch OFF
R switch OFF
D switch OFF
3 switch OFF
2 switch OFF

Condition C:
Both (i) and (ii) are met

(i) One of following conditions is met
Park/neutral position switch ON
R switch ON

and

(ii) One of following conditions is met
4 switch ON
L switch ON

There has been several instances of water getting inside the sealed Switch assembly and corroding the contacts.

 

post from a while back that may help you with your wiring issue
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...rride-park-lock-solenoid-failed.328365/page-3

 

I would check where you plugged in the trailer to your truck. Inspect the connector for corrosion, bent/damaged pins, and anything that looks unusual. By having a short that blew a fuse, it is possible that the code was locked into the ECU. I would suggest disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds, or if you have a code reader, clearing the code. Then restart the truck to see if the problem is still there.

 

Its been a few months but I finally have some time to work on this truck. The link Jimmy posted is dead but here it is. This looks very promising, thanks Jimmyh.

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/0280013.pdf

The park neutral switch needed a service and is within spec now.

On the next step I'm having trouble finding the connector. Shift lock control ecu sub assembly. Here is a picture and it's in the link as well. Does anyone know where this plug is?

 

Awesome, thanks for the quick reply doording.

 

Can someone identify this? Located under the armrest. Looks to be a power supply with a ventilation fan. I. Can't find it on the fsm. I noticed it when testing my shift lock ecu. I ask because it looks dead. Fan does not come on it has coffee stains on the connectors.

 

AC inverter for bed outlet I think

 

Inverter for the outlet in the bed.

 

It shouldn't come on until you turn it on with the AC Outlet switch.

 

Thanks guys, now I can continue my troubleshooting. So far I have finished testing and repairing the park/neutral switch and the PRNDL switch. Both were found to be faulty but I was able to bring them within spec with a through clean and grease. I made a spread sheet with the data I've collected so far and I will be updating it as I go.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1s9eQcrGb9Pq6ePvd9Ev9uHsys6tmm8rMopJ9E6LmKlk/edit?usp=sharing

Again I am following the procedure outlined in the link jimmyh provided here

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/0280013.pdf

As of now I have started testing the voltage on the ECM connectors and so far things are not looking good. P and N are constantly energized and R is getting no power. I still need to finish testing all positions but I will need to remove the ECM to get better access to the pins. That will have to be for another day. Any and all input is greatly appreciated.

 

I found the cause of my problem. It didnt take me long since this open circuit is near where I started. On the last pic of the diagram I marked the open with an X. I had good power up until the IH1 connector located behind the glove box. The open was a few inches down from the connector. Thanks for the help guys.

 

Replaced mine after stalling issue now I have delayed engagement ? Dealer can’t even figure it out