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When to change rear brakes?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by ecr6cyl10, May 22, 2015.

  1. Sep 9, 2017 at 5:55 PM
    #21
    ABNFDC

    ABNFDC Well-Known Member

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    Checked it prior to bringing it in. Wasn't blocked. It was a good opportunity to extend the breather though.;)

    No leaks anymore.
     
    lynyrd3 and Steadfast[QUOTED] like this.
  2. Sep 12, 2017 at 7:54 PM
    #22
    jdscott

    jdscott Member

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    Just turned 250,000 on my 2007 4x4. Surely it's time to change the rears. I will have a look next time I rotate the tires.
     
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  3. Apr 21, 2018 at 3:23 AM
    #23
    Benny123

    Benny123 Kid from the late 70s

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    Replacing everything worn, broken, and rusted.
    Changed mine at 130k. They were rusted so bad that when I pried them off the edges flaked to pieces. Also had missing pins and cracked pads. Would definitely check at 100,000 and every so often after that.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2018
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  4. Apr 21, 2018 at 3:28 AM
    #24
    2TRunner

    2TRunner Snoop Dad

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  5. Apr 21, 2018 at 3:34 AM
    #25
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    A few OE parts from fancy trucks
    Rear shoes should last 2x the front pads.

    Rear drums should last 2x or 3x front rotors.

    Does not mean they are maintenance free though. They should be serviced annually just like the front. More often if driven in salt or mud often.
     
    Jimmyh likes this.
  6. Apr 21, 2018 at 3:44 AM
    #26
    Benny123

    Benny123 Kid from the late 70s

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    Replacing everything worn, broken, and rusted.
    Definitely. Don't just assume they're good because they're still working. Here's mine at 130000 miles. PA winters destroyed them. IMG_20180420_104812.jpg IMG_20180420_104730.jpg
    IMG_20180420_104719.jpg
     
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  7. Apr 21, 2018 at 4:12 AM
    #27
    vssman

    vssman Rocket Engineer

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    What's the thread size on the drums for the jack screws?
     
  8. Apr 21, 2018 at 5:08 AM
    #28
    lynyrd3

    lynyrd3 STRENGTH DETERMINATION MERCILESS FOREVER

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    :eek:
     
  9. Apr 21, 2018 at 6:09 AM
    #29
    Benny123

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    Replacing everything worn, broken, and rusted.
    I don't know the size for the jack screws, although I'm sure someone will chime in. I used a combination of hammer, pry bar, and drill with wire brush around the hub and it finally let free. I was a little cautious of using jack screws because I didn't know what they would hit below the drum.
     
  10. Apr 21, 2018 at 8:54 AM
    #30
    vssman

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    The axle flange is beneath the Jack screws. Last time I rotated the tires, I beat on the drum with the ball pein hammer but no dice.
     
  11. Apr 21, 2018 at 9:14 AM
    #31
    Alexely999

    Alexely999 Well-Known Member

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    I’m at almost 90,000. I’ve changed the fronts twice due to LOTS of stop and go rush hour driving. I checked the rears around 60,000 and they still looked good. I’ll be checking them again soon.
     
  12. May 5, 2018 at 7:09 PM
    #32
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    Drums can be bound / hard to remove due to the ebrake being engaged. Make sure it's released prior to any force being used.

    Drums can also be bound by a shoe that is dragging or cocked. Sometimes backing off the adjuster will give some relief.

    But the best practice is to pull them at least once a year (more in salt country) and clean, lube appropriate parts, re assemble and adjust.
     
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  13. May 5, 2018 at 7:56 PM
    #33
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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  14. May 7, 2018 at 5:12 AM
    #34
    mbrogz3000

    mbrogz3000 Well-Known Member

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    Serviced mine at 86k miles - the insides looked good with minimal pad wear, and nothing needed replaced. The dirtiest part was the driver's side star-gear spreader. The grease/lube on all sliding surfaces was completely gone. I'm hoping this cleaning and lube takes care of this pulsating 'feel' throughout the cabin when braking, otherwise this rear-cleaning/lube will confirm the Brembo blank rotors I bought last summer are crap.
     
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  15. May 7, 2018 at 5:15 AM
    #35
    Sandman614

    Sandman614 Ex-Snarky TWSS elf, Travis #hotsavannahdotcom

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    Check your inner and outer tie rods, upper and lower balljoints, play in those can translate to braking shake as well as tire wear and balance.
     
  16. May 7, 2018 at 8:47 AM
    #36
    knottyrope

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    started to do drum brakes about 35 years ago, not much has changed
    take a pic before you take apart, number things if needed

    I have never done rear brakes on a taco yet, they seem to last a while
     
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  17. Jul 16, 2019 at 9:44 AM
    #37
    SamuelJ

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    How do check those? I would assume you jack up the truck so the suspension hangs freely and grab and shake to see if there is play?
     
  18. Jul 16, 2019 at 10:21 AM
    #38
    Fr33Ma$on

    Fr33Ma$on Well-Known Member

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    Anyone know how practical or sensible it is to try to swap those drums for some discs?
     
  19. Jul 16, 2019 at 10:21 AM
    #39
    JustAddMud

    JustAddMud Professional Grease Monkey

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    Yes
    Lift the side you're going to check, grab the tire at the 3 & 9 o'clock position then push/pull. Excessive play here could be your tie rods. Grab tire at the 12 & 6 o'clock position then push/pull. Excessive play here could be your UCA/LCA. Use a pry bar wedged between your frame and UCA, checking both the front and rear UCA bushing for excessive play. Should be firm and not spongy. Check the LCA bushings similarly. The UCA ball joint and the LCA ball joint can be inspected for condition. If its cracked, worn, split or dryrot. I would suggest replacement. Bushings can be pressed out and new bushings pressed in, or your local auto parts store rents tools that might help you replace your bushings. There's pleanty of videos on the Tubes that could give you some insight as to what would be expected when doing any suspension work. I would suggest ChrisFix, but be weary of people that might give bad advise and I would suggest watching multiple videos.

    Theres conversion kits on the market, but IIRC they are fairly pricy around 500+ and up depending on what you're looking for. See below for an example, this however, isn't the end all be all. There are others on the market, shop around. I believe some have swapped in the T4R brakes to work as a big brake kit with a few modifications. Check the search bar up at the top of this page and check.

    http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyota-tacoma-rear-disk-brake-kit.html

    -J
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2019
  20. Jul 16, 2019 at 12:13 PM
    #40
    Steve_P

    Steve_P Well-Known Member

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    The drums love to rust to the flange on the axles so be prepared- mine took the simultaneous combination of a giant puller, some heat, and an air hammer to free. I tried the jacking screws first but no luck. There are some specialty tools for drum brakes that will make the job much easier and they're not that expensive- I'd recommend the large pliers that also helps slide on the springs as a minimum. Keep in mind there is a primary and a secondary shoe so take pictures as the front and rear shoes often have a different amount of friction material on them - arc length.
     

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