Synthetic Engine Oil required?

OP should be happy is not a Jeep. He would be using Ragu tomato sauce.

 

Exactly what I use with a 7.5k mi oci and a 15k mi fci.

Dex 1 Gen 2 ftw.

< $4/qt.

 

I grab Mobil 1 from Wally World too, plus I buy when they do the $12 rebate, it's a win, win.

 

the only taco sauce i will use isI use mobile1 synthetic in my diesel.

Worth every baht or penny

 

I run m1 0w40 in my 20184Runner. And will run a 5w30 synthetic on the severe service intervals for the 2018 taco. There are semi synthetic 0w20s. My Toyota dealer is linked with a ford dealer. They use Motorcraft 0w20 for Toyota care, it is a semi synthetic that is run to 10k.
My aversion for 0w20 is that it does not have to undergo the ilsac gf-5 piston deposit sequence test that other grades of gf5 oils have to pass. (Why does this grade get a pass on a test that may be important to engine longevity?)
This means that the low friction engine oil (ow20)could allow greater engine deposits. (even 5w20 has to run the sequence test, so any ilsac 5w20 has passed tougher standards (even conventional 5w20) than the 0w20)I will run the Toyota care oils for only 6 month or 5k mile intervals and run moderate SAPS oils in between to help keep the engine clean. After the Toyota care is done I am done with the 0w20.
Do your own research, on the sequence test required for GF5. You will learn what compromises were made and then you can make an informed decision rather than blindly trusting.

 

https://fuelsandlubes.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/ILSAC-GF-5-draft-Jul-20-2017-LSPI.pdf

Page six paragraph 3.e
“Note: No TEOST 33C limit for SAE 0W-20 and SAE 0W-16.”

 

Welcome to the forum!
No blind trust here. I like results. Go to t4r.org and see how 0W-20 Blackstone results past 100K. On this forum with this engine the Blackstone results are the same... excellent.

Unless you are a tribologist (I'm not) then understanding industry standard tests are not gonna happen. Real world tests are easy to understand and this oil tests as good as any.

 

Another 430,000 and Toyota will give you a free Tacoma. Good luck.

 

I like engine oil analysis. It indicates if the oil is still servicable and can reveal certain mechanical problems such as coolant leaks or excessive wear in certain parts traceable to the metals.
used oil analysis however does not detect engine deposits. Which can form in hot areas of the engine such as the piston and ring areas. These deposits can overtime decrease the performance of an engine by cussing stuck rings, cylinder scuffing and the loss of compression and oil burning that goes along with it, after that the excessive oil burning will poison the emissions system. The oil is indeed holding up, that does not mean accumulation of deposits is not occurring, nor does the lack of the deposit test mean deposits are Occuring, but I feel better using grades that are tested and resist deposits and volatility.

 

If one wanted to argue semantics, I would say that 0W-20 is always available somewhere. That is, when is 0W-20 not available somewhere nearby where you are located in North America?

So, going by the book, using 5W-20 is not correct, unless you’re at the North or South Pole, or some other location where they just don’t carry 0W-20.

Of course, your engine won’t blow up, and no one but you will know what weight of oil you put in your Tacoma.
;-)

 

Haha, yea I know, the Toyota service manager told me this and I didn’t believe him at first
That’s still a long ways to go but a goal

 

I've been using 0W-20 at 10,000 mile intervals and done Blackstone Lab reports (click link in my signature for more info). I'm going to keep doing what I've been doing.

 

Just use what the manual tells you

 

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If you want to argue recomendations the owners manual also states a heavier grade may be better suited for heavy loads or high speed driving.
hands are tied on the language based in the owners manual based upon the test oil used to rate the mileage.
If you are happy running 0w20 I am not trying to convince you not to. I ran it for 7 years in my 2010 FJ cruiser without a problem. What I am saying is that there are nuances to the oil recommendations if you read a little further down in your owners manual.

 

Nothing wrong with using top rated oil for your vehicle.

 

Yea

Choosing any ILSaC oil(starburst symbol) and you are in the bounds of normal everyday American use.(low rpm cruising with short burst acceleration back to moderate highway speeds (0w20-10w30) that is the recommendation for North America based upon the majority of American drivers driving habits. but still not a requirement. (Shall vs should).
Now as an example If I plan on towing a lot or running real hard for a season through the mountains or I am running deep sand through the summer months , I will choose an ACEA 3 rate oil. This has an HTHS viscosity of 3.5 or greater (0w20 is ~2.7)and protects against oil shear in the bearings at high speed high load conditions.(examples of these oils are Mobil 1 0w40,Castrol 0w40 or Mobil 1 high mileage 10w30(asleeper euro oil hidden in the isle)
If you go to Toyota online look up the 2017 owners manual for the 4 runner. There is a section for vehicles in Puerto Rico along with an old fashioned temperature this gives an idea of what range of oils the gr engines with the dual vvt can operate on.
The only thing I would caution on is do not go out of the SN rating. Some diesel oils no longer vary the SN rating and would be inappropriate to use in a gasoline engine with emissions equipment.

 

Wally World has Mobil 1 (0W-20 ) on sale this week for 22.99 a jug!

 

Plus a $12 Rebate thru Mobil 1 till the end of May, I ended up buying 2.

 

I do not see Walmart on the list for participating dealers . does Mobil except walmart ?
https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mobil-promotions/17-off-motor-oil-march-may-2018