The Does Everything, but Sucks at Everything Build

Not severe enough to worry about.

 

It was fucked up enough to lock up the wheel periodically after stopping and turning off the truck. I'm not certain exactly what caused it though. I think @Mike likes Tacos pooped himself when he saw it the first time it happened. Weird sensation when you're on a fire road and feels like your pushing a large boulder with a rear tire.

After John Bull on Saturday I was driving back to pavement to air up and felt like something was dragging and draining power, after stopping for air that hub was at 225*F and the others were at 125*F.

 

Sure did. I was just thinking "fuck we about to do some crazy trail repair/recovery after a long day" I find myself in those situation a lot. Good stories to tell but at the time it happens it sucks ass.

 

I do not have small fingers so this might suck a lot, thanks for the heads up on the order to do it in.

 

Blue shims? I don't see anything in my kit that looks like a blue shim. Got a photo or diagram of what you're talking about?

Edit: our kits are probably slightly different, I may not need them since I don't see anything on my diagram

 

Well shit now I'm worried I'm missing something, what's the difference between them? The blue ones don't have a bend? And how did you know to use them instead of the ones in the main bag?

 

Will do.

 

I don't know if you got the scoop from him or not, but he said the curved washers in the parts bag can cause some unwanted friction. I can use them if I want and they will be good, just not optimal based on their experience. Between when my kit shipped and yours shipped they started including the other washers with the kit.

 

Maintenance taking way longer than I planned and the rear disc conversion set up got annoying.

Swapped out the ATF and dropped pan at 60k miles. Probably should have done it 5k+ ago. All the red tint is gone but still has a sweet scent. Going to need to install a larger cooler too, most of the milage on this ATF was with stock tires or 33"s. Only about 20k was on 35s and didn't start getting heavy with armor until 25k miles.


Noticed this crack on my driver side "The Truck Shop" spindle gusset. Appears to be in a non critical area and don't plan on any retard driving on my next trip, I'll keep a close eye on it to make sure it doesn't get worse and pull the spindle after I get back and repair it.

 

Long travel is expensive.

Wailing on a suspension that isn't 100% set up right is even more expensive.

 

What's the word on what's going on with all that?

 

Basically replacing everything that got fucked up or is even a little worn. After I put everything back together I don't want to have to touch it for another year. New LCA bushings, New uniballs, 4 new tapered misalignment spacers(2 for the top of the spindles and 2 for the bottom spindle adapter) , new spindles, new passenger spindle adapter, 2 LCA uniball bolts

Getting new spindles and I'm going to put the TC sway bar gussets on them and repair and keep my "Truck Shop" gussetted ones as spares. Well see if I can find a way to fuck up the sway bar gusset ones....

Those misalignment spacers are pricey as fuck. I asked TC about a couple that I didn't need to replace, but was going to out of convenience, but said fuck that after I saw what TC was charging for them.

Also got a extra spare extended CV shaft for Dusy.

I asked the guy I picked up the parts from TC if he had heard if anyone bending LCA uniball bolts and said he hadn't heard of anyone having that problem.

 

mckenzies.com or kartek.com is my goto place for that stuff..

edit: both places are a lot cheaper to

 

I actually drove over to Kartek after I got what I needed at TC. Most of the stuff I got from Kartek, but it didn't look like they had tapered misalignment spacers/bolts/or that specific bushing set I needed.

 

question... what was your biggest issue adapting the RJ60 to the truck?


tossing back and forth between the 9" and 60...