Where to set my target price for negotiation?

New here, looking to get my first Tacoma after spending some time researching on this forum. Safe to say, awesome community and awesome truck.

Does anyone have any tips on how to begin negotiating with Dealers? I'm eyeing a 2018 TRD Sport DCBSB in Cement for $37,318. TrueCar has it listed for $37,110 MSRP and $35,545 with the market AVG being $36,641. Where is a good point to start negotiation? I've seen people get below invoice, but not sure if that's on '17s or just pure luck.

Thanks in advance!

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...your-2018-tacoma.519521/page-61#post-17689296

Welcome to TW.

 

Thanks! I'll give that a read!

Also received an eQuote from a separate Dealer on a 2018 TRD Off-Road DCSB for $35,955

 

Cement is a popular color. I would start at 33k. Whatever you do don't start negotiating payments, always talk about the price of the truck. If you get a decent deal you can cover the payment.

 

I received a $35,631 on a 2018 TRD Sport DCSB in Cement with no options..I think they mistakenly showed me their cost at $33k and change. Is their price any good?

 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...edit?usp=drive_web&ouid=112830590394998246442

 

I paid $35k including the tech package ($660 invoice cost), but that took a ton of work. Guessing you could potentially get them down to $34,400. But it really just depends on the market (if you're in socal, it's really hard), I've seen others do a little better than me. Negotiate sale price, then bring up any trade after the fact so it's easier to understand if they try to hide money.

 

I start at $2000 below sticker price, out the door, tax, title, license, everything. We eventually met in the middle and got it for sticker price out the door. I also told them they didn’t have the color I wanted and that I was going to another dealer that did. They really had the color I wanted. I lied and it helped.

 

If he lives in Montana, there is zero sales tax. So offering otd prices online isn't a good figure to work from.

 

I got my 2016 Off Road loaded (tech and premium, Moonroof, ect) for $35k OTD. It was on the lot and came with all weather mats and tonneau. It just happened to be the week before the 17's hit the lot.

Guess I got lucy

 

If he is in MN should come to Iowa, and check out Dan Deery. I paid right around invoice for my 2018. Here is a DCSB Cement
https://www.dandeerytoyota.com/search/new-tacoma-cedar-falls-ia/?cy=50613&tp=new&md=312

 

Here, try this site...it even gives you dealers cost for a vehicle. https://www.carjojo.com/

 

See if you can find that same truck on cars.com. Many times the price on that site is lower than shows on the dealer website and is probably the price they say "click here for best offer". The thing is when you do that they have all your info and will harass you to no end. I found my truck on cars.com for $800 less then they showed on their website.

 

Just bought a SR5, got it for $35.5 out the door in Ohio with a 7.5% sales tax. Sticker price was $36.5. All weather mats/door/window liners, bed mat and cover, step bars, mud guards. Ask to see their invoice on what they pay. Go to different dealerships, haggle a bit, see what you can get and be ready to walk out and let them know your shopping around and going to see who has the best deal. Big auto mall dealerships will have a lot of money to play around with so you'll probably get the best deal from them. I think what a previous user said was a good idea, look at their sticker price and aim for 1-2k below that for an out the door price, thats taxes, fees, yada yada all included. That way they can't try and slip in some bullshit hidden fees.

 

7% to 10% off the manufacturers MSRP is pretty standard on the Tacoma except PRO plus tags, title, registration and dealer document fee.

 

Can’t nail a specific number because of accessories.

Ask for invoice minus holdback and finance holdback. After they ask you to leave, settle for invoice.

 

First, go to your bank or credit union and get pre-approved for an auto loan. They’ll actually give you a blank check with a max amount. It’ll cover truck, taxes, tags and possibly the trade-in (if you have one and you need to pay off a balance on it). The dealer might have a bank or Toyota financing might offer a better rate. If that happens, you can give the blank check back to your credit union and take the better rate.

I’d wait until the end of the month. Dealers are very competitive and are more willing to deal at the end of the month to hit or exceed their sales goals. I used TrueCar as well and my goal was to beat the best purchase price listed and I did. I made my offer. They came back twice with a counter offer. I stayed firm to my original offer both times and they accepted it. Firmly believe it was because they knew I was ready to buy since I had that check in hand.

Edit: final price was $600 over invoice

 

There’s a whole lot of fallacy here. First, check your banks rates on line. Do not go get approved, the pull will lower your score and may cost you the 1.9 that TFS has that your local credit union or bank cannot touch anyways since prime is higher.

Also, end of the month only helps if the dealer is just short of objective. If they’re a mile away or already hit it, it doesn’t matter if it’s the 2nd or the 30th.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-tacoma-model-package-option-costs-master-list.388345/

Invoice or close to it is a good price in my opinion. Just depends how much you want to leave on the bone for the dealership.

 

At invoice means lots of hidden money for the dealership anymore. They're not hurting. In my time, I've never seen a major dealership for any brand close in my area. Probably because they make an insane amount of profit in the service center.