Anything welding

Just be sure to read the fine print I have dealt with a few of those type warranties .

They for the most are from a independent company they all seem to fight tooth and nail to not pay any claims .

Always finding someway to prove customer damage.

If they give you a brand new unit then it is a good deal.

Just find out all the details before spending the money .

Like just where the machine needs to go can it be dropped off local or does it need to be shipped on your dime ?

Does it need to be in the original box .

In any case best of luck.

 

That 40a was on sale last week we picked one up so far it's awesome.

 

Dumb question.. with 2x6 square tube, obviously I'll try and sand as much of the surface rust off on the inside, but you can't get it all; so what does one do about the remaining rust? Will it be an issue if both ends of the tube are closed off and thus creating a seal for 100% interior containment? If there's no more moisture or air getting inside, the existing rust can't expand, right?

Also.. finally got a little more practice on my new Hobart 210. It looks like I'm still getting a ton of undercut. I'm using flux-cored wire for now (ie. pulling). Practiced a lap weld where the bottom piece is 1/4" thick and the top is 3/16". The left is a stringer and the right is a slight weave. Am I moving too slow? Or is it possible I didn't let the metal cool down after the stringer?

 

Try watching some YouTube videos where you can see how the movement of the squirt gun and how it looks when actually welding. Then for the settings use the chart usually on the inside of the welder for a “base” setting. Then adjust from there for personal preference.

After that just practice practice practice. You’ll be a pro in no time

 

You have to know and understand just what is happening in your weld puddle.

Then move the puddle to where it needs to go. One instructor would say" Make it dance to your tune"

You need to be in position to see what your doing .

Cover plates need to be clean .

you need to be comfortable you can get into all the contorted positions and weld using a mirror when you have your basics mastered

The best joints to practice on are Tee joints weld one side and then break it you can see your penetration , cold lap and under cutting quite well . 2 4"x4" plates one can get quite a few joints .

They let you do vertical up as well .

Undercutting can be caused by a few things to fast of travel speed

not pausing quite long enough on that toe of the weld

 

Questions:
.030 OR .035 solid wire?
Is Lincoln wire the "best"?
Currently using .035 Vulcan brand.
Welding anything from 1/8 to 1/4.

 

Both

 

Ive been using .023 for most everything these days myself. I also used .035 quite a bit but didn't like it as much on the thinner stuff (am doing a fair amount sheetmetal stuff)

As for wire...licoln is good. Ive also used the Hobart branded stuff and also Indel (thing that the name) and have liked all

 

Heading to the gas supply I'll see what they have. Testing the plasma cutter later

 

I use all .023 wire for any welding on these vehicles .

Whats nice I can turn the voltage down for thin stuff crank it up for 1/4" 5/16"

If I need to rebuild a bucket I switch feeders and run .045 or ,052

 

The chart on my Lincoln 180 says my .030 should only be used up to 1/8. Calls for .035 for bigger stuff

I’m a newbie, but am surprised to see you say @Wyoming09 .023 is good for up to 5/16”

I have been buying the Lincoln .030 but thought about getting some .035 for my next 3/16 plate project.

 

If I'm looking to make a bed rack is it more common to use mig or tig? I'm trying to decide which harbor freight welder to get. I will be welding on 120v for now. I'm deciding between omnipro 220 and protig 200

Open to other suggestions too

 

Building a bumper with 7018 sucks lmao. No mig machine yet and needed to build a bumper anddddd fuck this. Thin metal + some gaps + 7018= fucked. But it'll work for me until I get a shop setup lol. Gonna keep this bumper and just use it to get measurements off of when I build a new one the right way one day lol.

 

Really depends on which process you are more comfortable with. Just bought my TIG a few months ago, but when reconfiguring my bed rack, I went back to the MIG. I need a lot more practice with the TIG to do work on tubes, although on straight runs at least my travel speed with the TIG is pretty close to MIG speed.

 

No tig. You can but it is super unnecessary on bumpers/bedracks/sliders. Mig is 1000% fine for 99% of the stuff. The only thing I would ever tig would be a roll cage and even then, mig is fine for that

 

6013 is used for thinner guage. Fast freeze and low penetration. I need to get some myself for home stuff.

 

Yea I know but I just had 70s laying around and don't get off work in time to get to the local welding shop so I used what I had lol. Paint will make it look decent

 

Got it

 

Never heard of that brand. Hope you can find parts and consumables for it without having to ship em from over seas

 

It cut, although I'll probably take it back. 30 day $ back.