3rd gen from 2nd convert/ new truck q+a please

Hey 3rd gen guys and gals... I traded in my 2015 TRD Sport for a 2018 TRD Sport 4x4 with a LB, AT, but here's the kicker, it was lifted by the stealership right off the hauler.

Now please spare me the bash of over-paying and that it's a shitty lift... I get it that what I bought isn't for everyone. My money, my choice... plus being a working person who is not mechanically inclined enough nor have the space to mod a truck and want full warranty works for me.

With that said while I love the truck overall, it's a 6" Pro Comp lift with 33's. I didn't expect much in the way of MPG but the dash shows 13-15mpg so far in new truck baby driving mode.
Also my brief time on the interstate it actually slowly drops doing 70MPH. Showed 15.9 and was at 15.0 in about 10 miles.

Also if it hasn't been addressed more then a few times I did get and will have a full factory warranty since it was dealer lifted brand new. Also everything on my TSS safety system is re calibrated and works fine as well as tire pressure sensors/ Speedometer etc.

Just a real high profile gas guzzler.

Thanks for your insight 3rd Gen folks!

 

Well for one your MPG should increase after it breaks in for a few thousand miles. Anything over 65 mph and my milage start going down and that's a stock 2017.

 

@DustStorm4x4

 

MPG will get a little better over time based on my experience - bought mine about 8 months ago. Also, your speedometer is likely off because of the larger tires by 2-3mph. That also throws off mileage and mpg calculations a bit. I installed a Hypertech unit to correct the speedo and that helped a small amount as well. It doesn’t change the actual mpg, just the calculation and what you’re being shown.

 

my speedo was allegedly adjusted for the lift/tires and the medium speed trap radar trailers near my house show spot on and reading slow by 1 mph depending on which one @ 45mph....

did not know the 3rd gen gets better mileage with some time... Thanks for the input!

 

MPG sounds right for what you got...are they E load tires those are heavy and will burn more gas. My 17 is stock on the suspension and tires I get mid 16’s in the city and 18.5 on highway at most with a heavy foot.

 

Keep it below 70, my 1st and 3rd gens have shitty mileage running that fast.

60-65 I usually average about 21mpgs per tank.

 

What size wheels are the 33s mounted to? A HEAVY 18-20" wheel with an E-rated 33" tire will weigh a lot more than what your stock wheels and tires would of, leading to a large decrease in MPG.

 

yep, E-rated 295/55/R20, so heavy for sure. I guess if I eek out 16 after break-in I shouldn't bitch. My wife's un-modified Jeep Wrangler 4 door consistently get's 17 and change Mpg even with highway miles in Florida.

 

Jesus....

you gotta pay to play running those wheels and tires on a 6 inch lift.

 

What’s this thread about?

 

I guess I'm missing the question in all of that, but I'll bite.

That MPG is a bit lower than what I would expect, but since I don't know what terrain/wind/driving style/general conditions you're driving in that's pretty much ballpark. Might go up 1 +/- 0.5 MPGs as it breaks in. Anything over 65mph and I start to lose MPG in my manual. Autos are geared better for highway MPG.

Big thing, since you hit on it a few times, is that your factory warranty is in no way full or covers everything anymore - period. It didn't leave the factory the way it sits today. Any coverage for items related to your lift/frame(it's been cut now)/wheels & bearings/etc. could easily be denied by Toyota (corporate) - HOWEVER, sometimes dealers that do this kind of work will warranty it themselves. I wouldn't trust dealers here to do a drop bracket, but many shops here are competent in it. Your experiences may be different in FL.

OA

 

Throw some pics for us will ya?