My Stereo Upgrade Plan: Look Okay?

I will be keeping my stock HU, which is the 2 knob CD player that comes in the OR edition. My plan is:
Running Kicker CS components in front doors ($150)
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CSS674/Kicker-43CSS674.html
Running Kicker CS 2 ways in rear doors ($70)
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CSC674/Kicker-43CSC674.html
Powering them w/a Sound Ordnance 4 x 75w amp ($130)
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777M754/Sound-Ordnance-M75-4.html
Running all that thru a Audio Control LC7i sound processor ($129)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ATHBO86/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Running a Kicker HideAway 8" powered sub ($220)

My questions:
Can someone give me a link to 2012 DC OR speaker wire diagram?
Is this a decent amp for $130?
Is the LC7i necessary? (I read people having issues when they tried to skip using this)
Do I tap into the rear wires for the sub?
If the LC7i is necessary, do I run the Kicker HideAway thru it as well?
Will this sound @ least as good as the factory JBL touchscreen system? (I really hope it sounds much better)

Thanks for the help!

 

If you get the supplies from crutchfield, they should email you a wiring diagram for your truck I know they did with mine.
I've had people on here tell me sound processors aren't worth it without an aftermarket head unit but I can't remember the reason hopefully someone else will be able to help better with that



What I got with crutchfield but I only ordered speakers and not an amp maybe they'll give you more

 

I understand how the processor works but I was wondering if it's necessary with my particular stock head unit. Thanks!

 

Seems like it would be by what they are saying, helps equalize sounds to the new speakers better than what the head units suppose to for the stock shitty speakers

 

You should consider an amp with speaker-level (aka high-level) inputs like the JL Audio RD400. While it is more expensive, you won't need the line converter (-$100) and you save some room. I'm guessing that the higher output of the JL amp is a better fit with the speakers you picked. I have this amp mounted under the drivers seat...works great and sounds great using the factory stereo in my 2011 DCSB using Focal 2-ways in the rear doors and Pioneer components in the front. These are the parts I used for reference:

AMP
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarA...zWg5cOA5toR7miFFcgMrEufGZUV4xU0xoCMEIQAvD_BwE

Front speakers:

Pioneer TS-D1730C 6 3/4" Component Speaker Package, Set of 2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SI4RGIY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rear speakers:

165CA1 SG - Focal 6.5" 2 Way Coaxial Speakers

https://www.amazon.com/Focal-165CA1...D=413RZDGa08L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch50

Looks like the Focal's are discontinued and when I only paid $150 for them a couple of years ago, so there is probably a better deal out there.

I did the installation myself and took it to a shop to dial in the crossovers and amp settings. Sounds great to me and the shop guys were impressed at the sound quality (whatever that is worth). I listen to all types of music and it has enough bass to shake the mirrors and rattle anything that is loose if that's your thing, but it can't compare to a dedicated subwoofer. I wasn't going for that, I just wanted good clean all-around sound with more volume using the stock head unit and this setup delivered well.

One note, I did dynomat the doors a year after the original installation and the sound quality improved noticeably, not sure if it was because of reduced outside noise or improved acoustics, but you may want to consider doing it while your installing your system.

You'll probably also need the tacoma tweeter mount adapter to install an aftermarket component tweeter in the stock location as I did.

 

For speakers in that price point I would be looking at stuff from Polk Audio.

 

Under the "details" tab of the link that you provided, it specifically states that the amp does not have speaker-level inputs, so you will need the LC7i or something similar.

 

Here you go

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB6502/Polk-Audio-DB-6502.html?tp=106

&

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB652/Polk-Audio-DB-652.html?tp=105

 

If you're amping the speakers, ditch the CS for KS speakers. CS speakers are crap when amped, compared to the KS. Ask me how I know this lol.
Power the speakers with an Alpine PowerPack, and save yourself wiring and money.
Keep the Hideaway. It's just enough to make it sound like a premium system.

The setup above is my exact setup in my Access Cab (with the exception of having a Kenwood DDIN)

The biggest difference is the headunit though- if you want to really see the difference, you NEED to swap that unit for any aftermarket single-din at least.

I've attached the Directechs wiring for the 2nd gen non-JBLs.
If you need any assistance, let me know!

My post in this thread has links for what you need, as well.

 

Correct. Do you NEED a processor? No. If your amp has speaker level inputs you can skip this step. You can also get a line out converter if you're sold on that amp... but most amps these days will have speaker level inputs.

Try and listen to some of these speakers before you buy, if possible!

 

Check out *********.com! They have plug n play wiring harnesses!!

 

So doesn't @Mr Marv

 

Just call Mr. Marv and tell him your budget and what you are wanting to accomplish.

 

There are numerous post by and about Mr. Marv but he is legit. I spent $1,000.00+ with him and I am very happy as are many others.

Here’s one as an example:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mr-marv-hybrid-audio-arc-audio-more-2017-tax-time-buy.482018/

 

I've seen Mr. Marv mentioned but haven't seen a website, links or anything like that.
I have no intentions of spending $1K on this stereo upgrade as I've already spent almost $6K in the last 2 months on this truck.
I want to keep it at $700 or less. If I can't make decent sound for $700, not even including a head unit, I'll just stay bone stock.
Thanks.

 

No HU? No sub? No bueno

 

Correction. I see the sub. Still no bueno.

 

my install was similar.
heres what I did, still running good today. sounds pretty darn good over stock.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...nder-seats-in-2014-dcsb.421845/#post-12083293

 

I have to respectfully disagree with the recommendation of using a speaker level input amp, this doesn't remove the factory curve to my knowledge. Also low level inputs (rca) are best for clean amplification hands down, with speaker level input from my experience your always amplifying some amount of noise no matter what.
I used the LC6i and couldn't be happier. I have been installing my own car audio for 30 years and I am very impressed with this LC6 setup. I have it feeding an Alpine 4x50W amp for the doors and a bridged Alpine 150W amp that feeds an 8" custom built sub. The sound is incredible with the Bass, Treble and Mid range at dead center of the adjustment in my factory head-unit. I have a remote bass control knob for the sub amp that generally stays at 75% or greater gain. My sound is very rich, crisp, full range, with deep bass, I have the LC6 and Amps gain adjustments at center as well. I could increase the gain on the LC6 and/or Amps, there's definitively a lot more room, but I get zero distortion even at max volume on the head unit with my levels where they are. I went with Polk Audio component door speakers. Looking back I could have went with 6x9 which would probably have given better sound, but I stayed with the factory size. I got most of it from Crutchfield except the amps which were cheaper on Amazon, actually all of it was cheaper on Amazon, but I like Crutchfield and their speaker and wiring adapters are great, not to mention the wiring diagrams.
For me the worst part is having a sub under both front seats and the LC7 under the drivers seat. I wish there was more room to locate everything somewhere else but I didn't want to give up all my storage behind the rear seats. My custom sub enclosure took away the storage behind the left rear seat, but that was well worth it!