2TR-FE Rebuild/Refresh

I miss having a machine shop to do my own projects...

 

Added to my Watch List!

Because I don't think I've found a more detailed person doing a more detailed complete tear down of the same motor I have. Might lean on this thread in the future!

 

Yeah it's nice to be able to do this!

If you ever need to dig into a 2tr I hope this helps. I found it slightly frustrating to find some info as I was looking into it so I figured post here and see what people can tell me and hopefully it helps others.

John

 

Great thread even though I have a v6 look forward to your updates.

 

Great find!
I recently picked up a 2TR off Craigslist to build for a turbo. I was under the impression to always resurface the block and head if disassembled, but after reading your post it seems this isn't necessarily true. The Toyota OEM gasket is MLS, which requires a low RA surface finish- how do I go about verifying if it's ok or not?

 

The old school method for checking flatness is to put a ground bar on the surface and try to slide feeler gauges under. This is not very accurate and not ideal for MLS gaskets. I checked mine by putting it on a surface plate and shining it until it was flat, then used an indicator to see what the deviation is.

As with anything there is a tolerance for good and not good. Mine is on the edge. If I was doing a turbo build I would resurface mine. But if it was within .001 maybe not.

If you dont have a nice surface plate and indicator setup I would have a machine shop that does engines check it. Make sure its one you trust and let them know you're turboing the engine. A quick resurface shouldn't be too much.

As for the finish, mine was a nice machine finish not ground or fly cut so I just cleaned and stoned mine before checking. I wouldn't use anything that can gouge the surface.

Good luck with it!

 

That's good info, thanks!

Do I need to remove the valves to have it surfaced?

 

The head, no but if you're going that far I would pull them and at least re-lap them.

 

Right on, I'll do a water test and see what I have when the time comes.

 

Just a piece of trivia I have found useful when thinking about tolerances like the .002 flatness of the head tolerance. A single strand of hair is on average .004 in thick.

John

 

@Loxsl Where are you finding the specs for everything? Do you have access to the FSMs? I assume these aren't something that would typically be found in a Haynes or Chilton.

 

I'm at 213,000 on my 09 2TR-FE.i run 10w-30.wondering if its start burning oil at 250K.i guess I'll see.

 

@buyobuyo I think I posted this earlier but the specs I found came from here
http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/repair.html

This is stuff that would come from the factory service manual that usually you need to buy from Toyota or shops often buy a license for software that has them from all different manufacturers in like a database.

 

one of my favorite threads! Maybe a gloss grey on the block. Or something iconic toyota?

 

@Loxsl
Any chance you could give us valve spring specs:
Installed height
Valve Lift
Coil Bind
Loose height
Width (OD)
http://summitracing.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4768/~/valve-spring-specs---spring-height

Basically, I'm trying to match it to something here for options down the road, specifically duals
COMP Cams

 

@Loxsl
Is there enough width on the crank for the 3RZ's extra 5mm wide rods to fit?

3RZ

2TR

 

Ok Guys, somewhat big update. I have not made any additional progress on the engine itself other then taping for paint. However, I have ordered most of my rebuild parts. Since the engine has been in such good shape I'm just going with all stock replacements, no need to oversize anything.

I spoke with LCE http://www.lcengineering.com/ before I purchased anything. These are some great guys. I was curious about the bottom end as they do not have any 2TR-FE parts listed. @Torspd pointed out that the 3RZ is the same and I wanted to confirm that. I was informed that they are similar but there are some differences. LCE has not fully mapped out the engine yet so they do not currently carry all of the parts for it. He was able to tell me most of the bolts are the same, mains, pistons etc. as well as the water pump.

Since they have not gone over the whole thing yet he was not able to suggest I buy 3RZ parts. However, I did ask him about the DNJ rebuild kit that https://www.yotashop.com/ sells, and he said that is a great kit and should be fine for my needs. So I have ordered LCEs pro clutch and balance shaft delete and the other needed parts from Yotashop.

While I was discussing this with LCE they let me know they are in the process of creating a turbo kit for the 2TR and will be coming out with an aftermarket MLS and H-beam rods in the future. So, that's cool! Also found out the crank is forged which is nice. I know the pistons are Hyper-eutectic but not sure what the stock rods are.

I will be continuing to move forward with painting the block and getting the other covers and things cleaned and painted. The head is the next big thing I need to go over.

John

 

@05Taco4x4 I can check the installed height with calipers but do not have the specific mic for the job. The loose height is easy, as is coil bind and the OD, but Valve lift you may need to look for. I don't have an easy way to know that without putting the cams back in with the head off and measuring open and close distance which off the top of my head I don't know what I would do. If you can find CAM lift, that should be the same thing or at least close.

As for the pistons, I can check on the journal width for you but 5mm or .197in is not a small amount. Why not just get their 2TR pistons? I'm also not sure on the measurements they have listed as they put the sleeve diameter for the wrist pin at 22mm or .86614in and my pins measure approximately .8662in which would not fit. Maybe they intend them to be cut to match the pins? the center to center length lines up with my numbers though and bearing dia. makes sense. Looking at their sight they seem like good rods and Billet is right there with forged and 4340 is some of best steel when strength and heat are the big factors.

John

 

AWESOME! That would be great.

Edit: I saw a video, guy used a telescopic gauge and calipers.

I have my reasons

 

It has been a learning curve for us in the turbo BS thread as well.

I figure with the extensive work LCE has done to a 3rz, that having a 2TR in their hands, currently being built, they would have quick knowledge of the similarities. Maybe the right questions aren't being asked.

@Loxsl , would you be able to get this measurement? Between the arrows.