FLAT TOWING 3rd GEN TACO

Im going to flat tow my Tacoma to Yellowstone this summer with the family. I’ve added a light kit, and a SMI duo braking kit to the truck.

The blue ox 10000 pound tow bar will connect to the Southern Style Off-road slimline bumper D-rings. I welded reinforcements to the bumper in preparation for flat towing. I chose a pintle hitch for its ease of use. The hitch can be removed and replaced with a 2 5/16th ball hitch if it makes too much noise.

The light kit was a basic add a bulb kit from blue ox. Drill a hole in light and insert new bulb.



I added a weather pack plug to the light for easy removal.



The wires were run up to the front bumper and connected to a 4 wire plug.


Next I welded a tab to my license plate mount to hold the tow bar when disconnected from tow rig.


The SMI duo brake kit was installed next. I choose this kit because it uses two inputs to activate the truck brake. First is the left and right brake light signal and the second is a g force sensor. If one doesn’t work the unit will not accidentally activate the Tacoma’s brakes.

I mounted the vacuum, air compressor unit under the front drivers seat. The vacuum line, 1/4 air line and wire harness were run up the floor to the fire wall under the dash. The vacuum line and wire were tame though the fire wall.


The vacuum hose coming from pump under seat.


Wire and hoses up to firewall.


The factory vacuum line was cut and a check valve and tee were installed.


The emergency brake away switch was mounted in a grill opening.


This is the air cylinder mounted to the brake pedal.


And the g force sensor mounted to kick panel.


Next is a step some people may not want to do. I removed the steering wheel lock from the steering column. I plan on flat towing with the truck off and the key removed from the column. The ignition is held in place on the column with a tamper resistant bolt. The head breaks off at the factory once proper torque is achieved.

I used a dremel with a small cut off wheel to make a notch big enough to fit a large screwdriver into. Push with heavy force and rotate screwdriver with a wrench. It will brake free. Then remove keyed ignition from column after removing three harness’s.

Bolt with new dremil cut in it.


Old bolt and new stainless one.


Next remove the switch sensor from back of ignition.


Remove tumbler and the protruding steering column lock.


Now pull the steering lock off and reassemble.


The ignition back together without the steering column lock portion.


Bolt ignition back on the column. Now I’m ready to flat tow. The rear driveshaft will be removed from the pinion at rear diff and tied up while flat towing.

 

You know they make these things called trailers you can put the truck on right?

 

I thought you couldn't do this with these trucks or at least that's what my owners manual says.

 

Removing drive shafts should make it towable, I wouldn't try it without doing that first.

This would be easier.

 

sweet 8 lb 6 oz baby jesus. That's a lot of work. Good luck.

 

How you gonna hook the trailer to the hitch on the truck when he’s got a camper in the bed that hangs off the back completely blocking the hitch? See second to last picture.

 

I own a 20 ft car hauler.

In some of the parks and forests I’m going flat towing will be way easier navigating and parking. Also it’s 2000 less pounds to tow over 4000 plus miles.

 

The truck/camper has an extended frame/towing hitch rated at 1000 pounds tongue 10000 pull. It is removable also. Way stronger than any super hitch or double extensions hitches.




Elkhart used to do something similar for trucks with campers towing horse trailers or boats to lake mead.

Hitch was strong enough to stop a drunk, unregistered driver. It was fun finding a frame shop with a rack big enough to fit the dually on. No frame damage to truck or hitch. Insurance would have totaled truck....

 

What's going to cool the moving drive train parts while in tow? Trans/xfer case.. Seems like a bad idea.

 

https://www.swdriveline.com/remco_driveline_disconnect.html

https://vimeo.com/160904499

 

Reading comprehension will keep all of the parts in acceptable temperature ranges. Reading comprehension is key.

 

That seems like so much work, but I have seen the results when ppl don't consider driveline heat build up and drivetrain spinning all those miles...
I saw an MDX that was flat towed from Erie to Pittsburgh in the early 2000s....smoked the AWD completely

 

Must have missed it. Thanks for filling me in and not being a douche though.

 

The rear drivline flange is 4 bolts. You could probably DC it quicker than you can air down your tires.

 

Glad I could help.




I'm sure I'll screw up some day and you can get me back.

 

I carry an impact gun and connect to my onboard air system. I can have the rear driveshaft off in under 5 minutes and tied up.

The front drive shaft doesn’t turn thanks to the ADD system and when in two wheel drive it is disconnected from the transfer case.

 

The disconnects are cool. Just the location is way to vulnerable to trail damage. Now if I could mount it by the carrier barring, up out of the way that would be (.)(.)’s

 

You screwed up buying an SR5.

 

Alot of class As have a 5k tow capacity so its not even an option

 

Is that the culprit? Looks pretty guilty..... Lol