30" Light Bar Install - Easier Than You Might Think

advan7 · Apr 18, 2018

thumpper said: ↑

In past vehicles I've usually tapped the relay into the 'running' lights.

If you have it to the 'fog' lights it will only turn on when the fogs are on. (if I'm reading your diagram and understanding it correctly) If so when you click on the high beams the fogs turn off there for the light bar would turn off too. Just a thought.

I guess what is Fog #15 and when is that 'hot'?
Click to expand...

So I double checked when I got off of work, and the light bar still comes on when the high beams are on.

LakeShow24 · Apr 18, 2018

Natnewt said: ↑

curved I assume?
Click to expand...

Its a straight 32"
Fits well, close to no gaps

okichewy1 · Apr 19, 2018

advan7 said: ↑

Just installed my Cali Raised 32" light bar today with brackets and the mictuning oem switch, and wanted it only to turn on and illuminate when the lights were on. After brainstorming the wiring diagram I finally got it to work the way I wanted it to. I went and bought (2) create-a-fuse taps (one for the engine fuse box, and one for the under dash fuse box) and utilized the wiring harness supplied and the OEM switch. Included my diagram that I created for my installation.

The ground from the harness I grounded to the frame, and the power wire from the harness I ran to the engine fuse box #15 fog light fuse (see diagram below)

Connected the light bar harness to the lightbar.

And ran the remaining harness (blue/white/black wire) through the firewall to the OEM switch. Ran the green wire (switch) to the white wire (harness), and black to black, and red1 (switch) to the blue wire (harness). Red 2 I ran to the under dash fusebox and used the other create-a-fuse to tap into the #20 D/L fuse (see diagram below)

Click to expand...

What was the reasoning for running the Red 2 from the switch to a fuse? I just put both red's together into the white and works great. Used the same switch. Watched CaliRaisedLED install video and that is what they are telling people to do with the switch wires. Just curious.

advan7 · Apr 19, 2018

okichewy1 said: ↑

What was the reasoning for running the Red 2 from the switch to a fuse? I just put both red's together into the white and works great. Used the same switch. Watched CaliRaisedLED install video and that is what they are telling people to do with the switch wires. Just curious.
Click to expand...

I always have my lights set to auto with the DRL lights on, so I wanted to switch to turn off and on depending on how I have the lights set. If I have DRL's off, the switch illumination also turns off, if on auto, on, or drl's on, the switch will illuminate with the rest of the switches.

Of course, I just checked my lightbar again, and without the ignition on I was still able to turn the light bar on. I had the under hood fuse tapped into #15 fogs and thought it would only get power with the ignition on, but I was wrong. Initially I only wanted the lightbar to have power when the ignition is on, so I may change it to another location such as the #20 Radio fuse or may just leave it. haha

Sm32589g · Apr 25, 2018

Anyone have a picture of the light throw on the caliraised light bar installed?

ChasVS · Apr 25, 2018

advan7 said: ↑

Just installed my Cali Raised 32" light bar today with brackets and the mictuning oem switch, and wanted it only to turn on and illuminate when the lights were on. After brainstorming the wiring diagram I finally got it to work the way I wanted it to. I went and bought (2) create-a-fuse taps (one for the engine fuse box, and one for the under dash fuse box) and utilized the wiring harness supplied and the OEM switch. Included my diagram that I created for my installation.

The ground from the harness I grounded to the frame, and the power wire from the harness I ran to the engine fuse box #15 fog light fuse (see diagram below)

Connected the light bar harness to the lightbar.

And ran the remaining harness (blue/white/black wire) through the firewall to the OEM switch. Ran the green wire (switch) to the white wire (harness), and black to black, and red1 (switch) to the blue wire (harness). Red 2 I ran to the under dash fusebox and used the other create-a-fuse to tap into the #20 D/L fuse (see diagram below)

Click to expand...

What kind of Create-a-fuse did you get for the engine fuse box? Looking for power for a front camera so don't need a bunch of amps.

advan7 · Apr 25, 2018

ChasVS said: ↑

What kind of Create-a-fuse did you get for the engine fuse box? Looking for power for a front camera so don't need a bunch of amps.
Click to expand...

Depends on the fuse you tap, but this is similar to what I used.

$8 Nilight GA0007 1 2Pin Way 16AWG Waterproof Wire 1.5mm Series Terminal Connector-5 Pack,2 Years Warranty

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GKEXK2/ref=psdcmw_6355937011_t2_B011I9QZX2

CaliRaisedLed · Apr 25, 2018

Sm32589g said: ↑

Anyone have a picture of the light throw on the caliraised light bar installed?
Click to expand...

Heres our 30" combo beam. It really shows how theres a concentreated spot beam while also having floods shooting to the side.

advan7 · Apr 27, 2018

Combo beam as well.

pc3coyote · May 20, 2018

Updated my previous light bar wiring write-up in this thread to link to my new LED write-up page here which includes write-ups on front light bars, rock lights, and reverse lights. Footwell lights coming soon. Thanks!

pwalnut said: ↑

Hello, friends!

I decided to compile all of my electrical write-ups in one thread.

This write-up includes:

LED front light bar

activated by physical switch

LED rock lights

activated by physical switch AND dome light signal (approaching vehicle, unlocking vehicle, opening doors, etc)

LED reverse lights

activated by physical switch AND stock reverse signal

LED footwell lights

activated by rock lights physical switch AND dome light signal (approaching vehicle, unlocking vehicle, opening doors, etc)

I also have @mesojdm LED map and dome lights with the door trigger disconnected for the dome light (allows for independent control of the dome light with the switch without dome light coming on with the doors).

Note: this is how I did it and I'm not the best electrically. It seemed like the most logical way but there could definitely be better approaches.

Huge thanks to @DSIM for coming up with a great product (referenced below in rock lights section) and for all of the help answering my relentless questions. Daniel is a great dude!

Parts List

Front light bar

Light bar of your choice (I initially used a

MICTUNING 32" 180W Combo Led Light Bar - 13200 Lumen, 6000-6200K Crystal White, Waterproof for Off-road Jeep ATV UTV SUV Truck Boat

30" double row MicTuning light bar and then switched to a 20" single row Heise light bar in my @SouthernStyleOffRoad bumper)

$11 MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch

MicTuning wiring harness

Custom CH4x4 blue LED push switch (could also use a

MICTUNING M0810-T-LLBB LED Push Switch with Connector Wire Kit for Toyota - LED LIGHT BAR Symbol -Blue

MicTuning blue LED push switch)

@ragofabrication (or other aftermarker bumper depending on how you're mounting it)

Rock lights

Rock lights of your choice (I used

4 Pods LED Rock Lights, Ampper Waterproof LED Neon Underglow Light for Car Truck ATV UTV SUV Offroad Boat Underbody Glow Trail Rig Lamp (White)

8 Ampper white rock lights)

4 Lead LED Rock Lights Wiring Harness, Ampper LED Wiring Harness for LED Pods and Work Lights with Fuse 12V 40A Relay Waterproof On Off Rocker Switch

4-lead Ampper wiring harness

Custom CH4x4 blue LED push switch

@DSIM dome light harness (great product that was exactly what I was looking for and works exactly as intended)

Reverse lights

Reverse lights of your choice (I used

$145 Rigid Industries - Ignite Flood Light Diffused Backup Kit, Flush Mount, Black Housing, LED Off Roading Lights, 50000 Hours, Easy to Install, Off Roading Accessories, Made in The USA (Pair, 20641)

2 Rigid Ignite flush mount diffused)

$11 MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch

Mictuning wiring harness

Custom CH4x4 blue LED push switch

Diode

Footwell lights

Footwell lights of your choice (I used

$30 LEDGlow 4pc Red LED Interior Footwell Underdash Neon Lighting Kit for Cars & Trucks - 7 Unique Patterns - Music Mode - 8 Brightness Levels - Auto Illumination - Includes Cigarette Power Adapter

LEDGlow red 4pc kit under dash lighting kit - they have other colors and also multicolor)

Extras

@ragofabrication

@forty2 3-switch black narrow switch plate (great if you're adding several lights and there's also a 2-switch version, you can skip this and use the blank location if you're only installing one light and depending on your model of truck)

Consumables

Good quality electrical tape

$12 TYUMEN 40FT 18 Gauge 2pin 2 Color Red Black Cable Hookup Electrical LED Strips Extension Wire 12V/24V DC Cable, 18AWG Flexible Wire Extension Cord for Ribbon Lamp Tape Lighting

18AWG 2-pin wire

Black spray paint (whichever)

Tools

10mm, 12mm, 14mm deep sockets

5mm allen key (I think)

Flat head and phillips screw drivers

Trim removal tool

Wire crimper

Wire stripper/cutter

Lighter

Drill with various size bits

Dremel with cutting disk

Soldering iron and solder

Wiring Diagrams

Front Light Bar

Rock Lights

Reverse Lights

Footwell Lights

@DSIM Dome Light Harness

Switches

Front Light Bar

Instructions

Leave the main connections (battery positive and ground) connections for the end once you have all your wires routed as a precaution. Always start with negative battery terminal disconnected (use a 10mm socket) and cover terminal with a rag so it can't make contact.

Remove the grill. Use the phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws and the flat head screwdriver to remove the two plastic tab screws. Grab the upper supports and pull straight out. The plastic tabs will come out.

Remove the wind deflectors on each side. Use the flat head screwdriver to remove the single plastic tab screw on each side.

Remove the two transmission cooler bolts by using the 12mm deep socket. Push the transmission cooler back to make it easier to slide the LED light bar in.

Remove the two nuts on each of the outer sides of each crash bar with the 14mm deep socket. Leave the inner bolts alone. Install only the driver side light bar bracket but only hand-tighten the nuts.

Slide in the light bar from the passenger side to the driver side. Let it rest on the crash bars. Install the passenger side bracket and hand-tighten the nuts. Use the smaller bolts that came with the light bar to attach the light bar to the brackets with a 5mm allen key. I also added two hardened washers (one on each side) but they likely aren’t needed. You may need a second person to hold the light bar as you bolt the light bar to the bracket so that you can lean down to see through the grill to line up the bolts and holes. Ensure that the light bar is pulled all the way forward and rotated to face straight out.

Mount the relay to the bracket by the battery by temporarily removing the bolt with a 10mm socket.

Cut off the spade terminals from the white and black wires from the harness, cut it shorter to length, and use the 14 AWG butt connectors to connect it to the red and black light bar wires (white to red, black to black). Use electrical tape over the connectors. Use electrical tape over the second set of white and black wires from the harness or cut them off if you don't plan to use them (they are for a second light bar).

Temporarily run the two red terminals to the positive battery terminal and the two black terminals to the ground to the right of the relay to test the light bar. Use the attached switch. If it works, disconnect the terminals. If it doesn’t, troubleshoot. The battery terminal requires a12mm socket and the ground requires a 10mm socket.

Reinstall the transmission cooler

Cut off small corners of the wind deflectors with a dremel and then reinstall. This is so that it doesn’t hit the light bar.

Zip tie the wire going from the light bar to the relay in various places to keep it out of the way. There are plenty of places to attach too.

Follow @moe2o4 ’s guide to disassemble the dash panels. Use trim removal tool, 10mm socket, and phillips screwdriver to remove three trim pieces on driver side.

If you're only installing one switch: Remove the blank switch place-holder from the far right. It unclips from the back and pushes to the front.

If you're installing multiple switches: Remove the cubby with a screwdriver.. It unscrews from the back. Screw in the new switch holder.

Cut off the switch from the harness. Cut off a straight piece of a metal hangar. Use the hanger wire to poke a hole in the rubber firewall. Use electrical tape to tape the red, white, and black wires coming from the relay to the hanger. Rub a dab of dish soap over the taped area of the hangar and then pull it through from the interior by pulling on the end of the hangar.

Wire the switch to the harness wires by using the 20 AWG butt connectors. Red harness wire goes to the green switch wire, white harness wire goes to the red 1 (first after green) switch wire, black harness wire goes to the black switch wire. After that, use the 20 AWG quick splice to connect the red 2 (second after green, first from black) switch wire to the green cargo wire (first wire on the first switch from the left). After you connect everything, wrap all the connects in electrical tape.

Reconnect the two two red terminals to the positive battery terminal and the two black terminals to the ground to test the light bar. By default, nothing is lit up. The switch text LED should light up when the interior lights are on. The switch light bar LED should come on when pressed. Test the new switch to make sure it works, that the lighter comes on, and the switch light bar LED should also light up. If it works, proceed. If it doesn’t, troubleshoot.

Ziptie the extra slack going from the relay to the firewall, from the firewall to the battery positive terminal, and from the firewall to the ground terminal. Reinstall the dash panels. Reinstall the grill.

Photos

Light bar only:

Lows and fogs only:

Lows, fogs, and light bar:

Lows, highs, fogs, and light bar:

Rock Lights

Instructions

Engine bay wiring

Always start with negative battery terminal disconnected (use a 10mm socket) and cover terminal with a rag so it can't make contact.

Run two power wires and two ground wires (for relay and switch) to battery and ground in side of engine bay using 12mm and 10mm socket respectively. Trim to right lengths utilizing 18AWG wire and butt connectors (heat shrunk with lighter, wrapped in electrical tape) as needed. Use wire loom (electrical tape on ends) over wires

Cut off switch. Use a sharp object (coat hanger, shish kabob stick, etc) to poke a hole in the rubber boot, with the switch wire electrical taped to it, to run the switch wire into the cab. Use wire loom to cover wire

Switch placement and wiring

Follow @moe2o4 ’s guide to disassemble the dash panels. Use trim removal tool, 10mm socket, and phillips screwdriver to remove three trim pieces on driver side.

If you're only installing one switch: Remove the blank switch place-holder from the far right. It unclips from the back and pushes to the front.

If you're installing multiple switches: Remove the cubby with a screwdriver.. It unscrews from the back. Screw in the new switch holder.

Push in switches

Use butt connectors (and electrical tape) to connect switch wires to switch

Use quick splice connector (and electrical tape) to connect switch wire to another switch wire for illumination

If you want the rock lights triggered by the dome light signal in addition to the physical switch (approaching vehicle, unlocking vehicle, opening doors, etc

Follow this Toyota guide on removing the a-pillar cover

Ziptie @DSIM relay to one of the factory harnesses

Follow @Volksparts guide on wiring in the @DSIM black wire. Feed @DSIM black wire up behind dash towards a-pillar and use quick splice connector to connect @DSIM black wire to yellow a-pillar wire

Use quick splice connectors to connect @DSIM red wire to switch green wire and @DSIM yellow wire to switch red 1 wire

Reassemble

Lights placement

Middle four lights were placed under each door, rear two lights were under the bumper, all were ziptied to the frame

Front two lights were under the front bumper. I made a paper template of the light by tracing it and used that to drill three holes (two mounting bolts and wire) into the flimsy plastic in the front of the truck under the bumper in front of the wheel well. I then mounted the lights using the two supplied bolts. I accessed the inside of the wheel well to secure the 10mm nut from the wheel well using the 10mm socket to hold the nut and the 5mm alley key to tighted the bolt. You access the wheel well by removing one 10mm bolt with the 10mm socket and one push screw with a flathead screwdriver from inside the wheel well and them pull the plastic aside.

Lights wiring

There are two wires from the relay for each side, each with two leads

Run one wire across back of engine bay facing cab ziptieing to existing harness as you go

Cut off wiring harness leads. Connect additional wire to one of the harness wire leads with butt connectors (and electrical tape, wrapped in wire loom) and run straight down to under truck

Run wire to first light (in wire loom) at the passenger front door ziptieing to existing harness as you go

Three way splice with two butt connectors (one for red positive wire and one for black negative wire). One side has the incoming wire. Other side has rock light wire twisted together with additional wire. I'd strip the wire for both the rock light and outgoing wire and then twist the strands together (do that for both red and black wires respectively). Wrap in electrical tape and then put in wire loom

Repeat above for passenger rear door, passenger rear bumper, driver rear bumper, driver rear door, driver front door (daisy chaining as you go with three way splice at each light, covering wire in wire loom as you go, ziptieing to existing harness as you go)

For the passenger front bumper, connect additional wire (with butt connectors) to the other lead from where you ran across the engine and where you ran the one lead down to under the truck, wrap in wire loom, and fish the wire down to the small opening in the bumper from behind the headlights. Connect the light to the wire and then push all of the extra wire back into the bumper

For the driver front bumper, you can now use the other primary wire coming from the relay. We'll only need the long lead so you can either cut off the extra one in the middle or just cover it electrical tape. Repeat process above for fishing the wire and connecting the light

@DSIM dome light harness

Photos

Rear Lights

Instructions

Same as rock lights with the exception of drilling into the plastic part of the rear bumper with a 1.75" hole saw for the main hole for the light and 3/16" drill bit for the mount screw holes

If you want the new reverse lights to come on with stock reverse signal in addition to physical switch

Follow this EAA guide on how to solder a diode to 2-3 ft of wire and then put wire assembly inside wire loom

Use quick splice connector to connect one end of new wire to middle white wire of trailer harness and other end of new wire to red positive wire of wire leading to the reverse lights

Photos

Footwell Lights

Instructions

Always start with negative battery terminal disconnected (use a 10mm socket) and cover terminal with a rag so it can't make contact.

Follow @moe2o4 ’s guide to disassemble the dash panels. Use trim removal tool, 10mm socket, and phillips screwdriver to remove three trim pieces on driver side.

If your LEDs have a control box, mount it in desired location. I mounted mine using the supplied double-sided tape in the driver footwell area in the bottom right corner.

Use a quick splice connector to connect the red positive wire from the LED control box to the yellow @DSIM wire. I also added extra electrical tape around the plastic connectors with the fuse to ensure it doesn't come disconnected.

Use a quick splice connector to connect the black negative wire from the LED control box to the black wire from the rock light CH4x4 switch.

Pass two of the light bars through the small hole of the carpet under the console to the passenger side.

Run two of the light bars (one for each side) to under the seats while tucking the extra wire up and under the side of the wire console.

Secure light bars in desired locations using zipties and/or double-sided tape. I mounted mine at:

Driver side front: under dash with double-sided tape

Passenger side front: under dash with zipties using holes already in dash

Driver side rear: under front of driver seat using zipties around metal support bar

Passenger side rear: under front of passenger seat using zipties around metal support bar

Photos

Switches

Photos

Three-switch option

1-switch option

Off:

Interior lights on:

Interior lights on, light bar on:

Relay Holder

Instructions

This is only if your relays don't have the empty tab slot on the back to install onto the relay holder

Drill three holes into relay holder tabs to mount relays with zipties. If you buy relays from an auto parts store, they'll have a slot where the relay holder tabs will slide in. Since I used premade harnesses, they didn't have this

Spray paint over the new holes to avoid rust

Mount relay holder in engine bay

Install relays on relay holder with zipties through hole in the relay and new holes in the relay holder

Map and Dome Lights

For info on my map and dome lights, see my write-up here.
Click to expand...

VTSR516 · May 10, 2018

El Latigo · May 16, 2018

I am interested in getting your feed back on the light bars. Long term review kind of.. any issues? water damage, condensation? over heating, etc..
Thank you..
I ordered this light bar from Amazon

$50 Nilight LED Light Bar 32" 180W Spot Flood Combo LED Driving Lamp Roof Bumper Off Road Lights LED Work Light Led Pods for Trucks Pickup SUV ATV UTV Boat,2 Years Warranty

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DNYCJQW
It has a decent price, and like to know if anybody here is using it and if they have any issues..
thank you,

metsfan6734 · May 18, 2018

El Latigo said: ↑

I am interested in getting your feed back on the light bars. Long term review kind of.. any issues? water damage, condensation? over heating, etc..
Thank you..
I ordered this light bar from Amazon

$50 Nilight LED Light Bar 32" 180W Spot Flood Combo LED Driving Lamp Roof Bumper Off Road Lights LED Work Light Led Pods for Trucks Pickup SUV ATV UTV Boat,2 Years Warranty

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DNYCJQW
It has a decent price, and like to know if anybody here is using it and if they have any issues..
thank you,
Click to expand...

That is the light which I installed about 4 months ago, I love it and have had no issues with it yet. All the LEDs still work and there has been no water damage or condensation. An I clean it just by soaking it down with the hose. I have also driven in in some cold weather down to single digits and still have no issues. I don't usually have it on for an extended time (typically about 20 minutes or so) but it has never over heated either (although I live in upstate NY and the warmest its been is about 70-75 at the hottest point of the day. I will keep you updated if any issues ever arise

El Latigo · May 18, 2018

metsfan6734 said: ↑

That is the light which I installed about 4 months ago, I love it and have had no issues with it yet. All the LEDs still work and there has been no water damage or condensation. An I clean it just by soaking it down with the hose. I have also driven in in some cold weather down to single digits and still have no issues. I don't usually have it on for an extended time (typically about 20 minutes or so) but it has never over heated either (although I live in upstate NY and the warmest its been is about 70-75 at the hottest point of the day. I will keep you updated if any issues ever arise
Click to expand...

Outstanding!! Exactly what i was hoping to hear... I also bought the Randy Ellis mounting brackets, i believe just like yours..
Question: Did you have to move, trim, remove the air dams (black plastics on the side) seem like they maybe on the way of the brackets?
Thank you for your feed back. Sir,

ngtrd · May 18, 2018

El Latigo said: ↑

Outstanding!! Exactly what i was hoping to hear... I also bought the Randy Ellis mounting brackets, i believe just like yours..
Question: Did you have to move, trim, remove the air dams (black plastics on the side) seem like they maybe on the way of the brackets?
Thank you for your feed back. Sir,

Click to expand...

I recently installed this light bar with the same brackets. I had to trim the bottom of the air dams to fit around the light bar. There wasn't a lot of material removed but it is required if you want to leave them air dams installed. Just use tin snips and adjust the cut to your liking. It is a really nice setup and has impressive output for the price.

El Latigo · May 18, 2018

ngtrd said: ↑

I recently installed this light bar with the same brackets. I had to trim the bottom of the air dams to fit around the light bar. There wasn't a lot of material removed but it is required if you want to leave them air dams installed. Just use tin snips and adjust the cut to your liking. It is a really nice setup and has impressive output for the price.
Click to expand...

Awesome.. doesn't sound that difficult to do..
Thank you. Sir,

ngtrd · May 19, 2018

El Latigo · May 19, 2018

ngtrd said: ↑

Click to expand...

That is bright.. Nice..

metsfan6734 · May 21, 2018

El Latigo said: ↑

Outstanding!! Exactly what i was hoping to hear... I also bought the Randy Ellis mounting brackets, i believe just like yours..
Question: Did you have to move, trim, remove the air dams (black plastics on the side) seem like they maybe on the way of the brackets?
Thank you for your feed back. Sir,

Click to expand...

I mounted mine backwards to avoid having to trim the air dams. the brackets do push up against the air dams and its a tight fit, but it works

Invid · May 21, 2018

metsfan6734 said: ↑

I mounted mine backwards to avoid having to trim the air dams. the brackets do push up against the air dams and its a tight fit, but it works
Click to expand...

I am going to try this. I don't really want to cut my plastic either.

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