Crankshaft Pulley -- should this be replaced?

https://youtu.be/qshghV0Icrc

There is a slight wobble on the inner part of the crankshaft pulley. (big one at the bottom, below the pink fan shaft)

The tensioner pulley is chattering intermittently ... I think because it's being pulled and released against it's stops by slight variations in belt tension.

Something else is squeaking.

I removed the belt and tested all of the pulleys and they mostly seem solid. I removed the tensioner pulley and it is smooth. One of the idlers has a very slight loose play in it but it is not grindy when I spin it ... if I tap with my finger there is a very slight metalic clack due to the slight looseness.

When I accelerate hard, I hear a gravelly kind of hissing (from inside the cabin)... could this be the inner crankshaft pulley slipping or something? No idea.

So, upshot is, I'm wondering if I should replace the crankshaft pulley. Is the slight wobble a danger sign? Could it account for the squeaking? Could it account for the chattering of the tensioner?

I was recently in an accident... drunk guy hit me head on right between the headlights and then drove off. About $15k damage to the gadgets in the front like the radiators. Perhaps the fan shaft or water pump pulley was affected? What typically happens if the fan shaft is jammed in by a head-on collision?

Body shop guy said when they were done they had to replace the serpentine belt due to squeaking that he knew I wouldn't put up with so they made "adjustments". Could it be that he put a belt on that was too lose? ... The tensioner should not be chattering against it's stops I think?

Finally, I have never lubricated the "propeller shaft"... a regular maintenance task in the owner's manual. I presume that's the fan? Could that be the source of the chirping? 40k miles.

Thanks for any tips or insights.

 

it looks like the rubber is seperating from the metal so yes id replace that like soon before it grenades on you

 

Was the head on collision a recent event? I'd talk to the body shop/insurance and let them deal with it.

 

That sounds pretty serious. Can you elaborate?

Thanks

 

The propeller shaft is the driveshaft.

 

Can you tell if there is rubber missing? The bottom is the old one. Note the chunks of rubber missing. the went with the Dayco brand one from oreillys. Just as good as oem and way cheaper.

 

I haven’t noticed any damage to the rubber edge that is showing. I’ll inspect it more carefully.

However, there is some unevenness in how much the rubber “grommet” is seated inside the two metal rings. On one side of the pulley the grommet is more deeply inset than on the other side.

Not sure if that is a potential problem indicator?

I’m not sure if the wobble is a problem either ... Was hoping to collect some advice here one way or the other on that question.

 

If they aren't even across the edge, Id suggest replacing it. They do go out and they are crucial to engine performance. I think I paid 77 bucks at oreillys and 15-20 ish for the front main seal from Toyota.

 

I'm looking at this part from NAPA: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP6005358

Is that likely to be all that I need for parts? What exactly is the seal part that you mentioned? Is that the rubber grommet in between the two metalic cylinders? Looks like the NAPA assembly includes that part.

I've found a few videos online and it does not look that difficult to remove the Crankshaft Pulley. I need to get a bolt for my breaker bar and perhaps an extractor tool. I need to know the torque setting to replace the bolt.

If the pulley is hard to pull out, should I lubricate anything to get the pulley back on?

I'd like to take a look at the parts and procedures in this tech manual but I don't see chapter mentioning Crankshaft Pulley or Harmonic Balancer. Is there another name I should look under?: http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/repair.html

Thanks all.

 

I would replace the balancer and looks like the belt is doing something weird

 

Thanks for looking at this. Several people have corroborated your recommendation of replacing the crank pulley / balancer assembly.

Would you mind looking at the questions in the last post I made in this thread (just above yours). I am about to run out and get the parts but I need a detailed documentation of the parts and possibly any lubricant that might be needed?

The tech manual I linked to does not seem to have any pages about disassembly / reattachment of the Harmonic Balancer. Could use a pointer to one online, or some screenshots if anyone has one.

Thanks much.

 

Once the crank pulley bolt is removed - and that is the hard part - the pulley slips right off. No lubricant needed but a very light film of oil on the crank end won't hurt anything.

Don't bother replacing the crankshaft oil seal "just because you're in there" - if it isn't leaking, leave it alone.

Pro tip: tape cardboard over the radiator fins before you start working in there. Don't skip this step.

 

Definitely follow this advice. I learned the hard way working on my 37 Chevy pickup rebuild.

 

Does anyone have access to a section from an online tech manual (2014 Taco) that explains the Harmonic Balancer replacement procedures?

I think it's pretty straight forward, but I don't want to overlook something vital and non-obvious. You know, those "Make sure you don't forget to do X or else your engine will explode." kind of tips.

Thanks much.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsK4YZL_vc8

watch the video

 

Thanks. The video doesn't specifically address the Harmonic Balancer, however.

My concerns with the crank pulley assembly are:

• Are there any special handling or disassembly procedures I need to be aware of compared to one of the other pulleys? Is it just a simple: pop it off and push the new one on?
• I know I may need an extractor tool to get it off... anything else?
• Are there any special washers or replacement seal parts that I'll need to have on hand and replace?
• What torque should I apply to the crankshaft bolt when I reapply it?

Thx.

 

I did one on my Ex wifes van 3 times for timing belt
remove bolt
slide off old pulley by hand
add new pulley and bolt up tight
put on belt and post greasy hands on social media

no special washers or extra parts unless you really want to go that far and replace the front seal which don't fail often

in sticky section is a list of torque specs

 

Diagram says 184 ft-lb.

Gah, my torque wrench only goes up to 150 ft-lb.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery..._Internal_Engine_Assembly_Diagram_Page_4_.png

 

So just go a bit further on the wrench, I never torqued it on the van and is still going after 215k miles

 

Ok, so cracking the nut on the crankshaft pulley is tricksey ... the engine just turns over with only a slight unwinding force applied to the pulley.

Are there any tricks that people might recommend to getting that thing loosened?

One trick I saw: brace the breaker bar against the frame and crank the engine with your key. BAM. That's supposed to break open the nut.

But that seems dangerous to me? The breaker bar could flip and damage one of the hoses or the radiator in there? How prone is this technique to mishaps?

Another technique I saw was someone fashioned a V of metal bars that screw into the extractor screw sockets and then used counter force against the breaker bar to loosen the bolt. But I do not have access to the tools necessary to fashion such a gadget. And I'm wary that those little screws could break? Are there any pre-made tools to do this sort of thing?

Any tips much appreciated.


[Edit: OK, may have answered my own question about premade tool: https://youtu.be/j_TfAACwJac]