Subway4X3 Shameless Copycat Build

Toyota 167 Series Snorkel for Hilux SR5

Ordered 4/14/18, shipped from China and FedEx set it on my doorstep 4/20/18.

Finally found some time today to look at the contents to confirm contents and condition.

Someone in Guangzhou packed the hell out of it:
Packing taped the entire box:


Styrofoamed every nook and cranny:


Everything looks to be in good condition.
@Wheelspinner - can you take a look and confirm I have everything that's supposed to be in this package?


@diabetiktaco will source the other doodads needed to route the air inside the engine bay.


I'm looking to do this install with Steve (with his proven Hilux to Tacoma template), his little brother and Eric. Hopefully our Snorkel Install Day will be at the end of this month or early next month.

 

A plasma cutter may be overkill for cuting your fender

Seriously though, I want to see how this works out. That's a cheap price for a snorkel.

 

That's exactly how mine came packed! I used the box (cut down) to ship a fork I sold haha

it works our great! the thread on it helps, and @inesshell 's writeup is easy to follow. I like the bead of gasket maker to clean up the gap a bit.

 

Yeah. It was $145 and eBay seller accepted my bid of $135 shipped. Great deal.

The plastic pieces looked well made, the hardware is SS. I’ll report back after install.

 

Would the plasma cutter work tho? Or will it ruin the truck’s paint finish? @HolyHandGrenade @stairgod

Or I can go with my tried and true method using my jig saw. The cutout for the hood pins came out pretty damn good.


Those teeth on the hole saws just look too aggressive IMO and might tear up the sheet metal. did you use a hole saw @Nimble9 ?

 

I just used a drill and stepped up 20 3/8, and I used a hole saw and dremel for the main hole.

 

Plasma will melt the paint, possibly far even back that the snorkel will not cover it.
I used a hole saw.

 

It’s the “no touch” Pilot Arc version, so I think it doesn’t get dragged. There’s a “stand-off guard that keeps the electrode/nozzle from touching the metal workpiece. Good for painted, rusty metal, which I have plenty of.

 

That is that tear that I have too under the battery. I drilled a hole like you said, but it keeps spreading

 

That is the inner fender, not the core support. But I should probably reinforce that are on mine too. Any movement in the inner fender at that spot will allow the wings of the core support to move also, exacerbating the problem.

 

@Arcticelf said that was from the battery.. but now Im not so sure

 

If it was from the battery, why is my passenger side also cracked?

 

dual battery?

 

Because you beat the shit out of your truck? It might also be caused by worn out bushings letting everything move more than it should.

I reinforced both sides on mine, and moved the battery behind the rear seat.

 

Switched the NEMA L5-30P to NEMA 6-50P


Ready to rock ‘n roll @220 volts!


Thanks for the help @Redmann!

 

Finally figured out how to use my hitch mounted 1up bike rack and still be able to use the BFF rear tire swingout and clear the tailgate when down.




The key is dual 2” receiver extension with 6.5” drop. I’ve had this thing for more than 18 years, and I just recently remembered that I still had it.


Should be plenty of room when spare tire and Jerry can mounts are bolted up.



I’m satisfied that the bike is secure

 

Nice

 

Hey Lloyd, FYI I cracked a hood pin today. No clue how the hell it happened. Will be making a duplicate in steel tomorrow

 

Poly bushings a few years ago

 

My dream is a hitch on the swingout for a bike tray lol