Old Car BS thread

thanks! Hopefully it works..

 

It should work fine. A true 12v coil doesnt use a resistor but has more windings on the primary side instead. Many that are sold as 12v actually need and use a resistor to drop the voltage down to protect the coil and points.
When I converted my '40 to 12v (when it had the original motor), I wired it as I described and it ran fine.

 

Its been a long while since Ive messed with points Surprising lots of people havent even messed with them at all...

 

Yep. With the low cost and ease of electronic breakerless conversions, points will be mainly for oddball vehicles and purists.
There are also conversion kits to put a 302 in an 8n.

 

wow, that would be crazy...bet it could pull a stump quite easy

 

My 2nd to last boat was early 80's vintage Grady White with a 350 SBC setup that used points.
I think Mercruisers used points well into the mid 80's.
I never had issues with points and always carried spares. If they did hose up, you can always slap a new set in and gap it with a matchbook cover, lol. Easier to get out of a jam on the water than running a transistor ignition, when blown ,would leave you stranded.

 

what measurement is the matchbook?

 

around .016-.020 , and that's where you want to be with points.

 

well got some progress, got spark and now its a fuel problem. ah the joys of old equipment! Have to try and adjust the carb, tried initially what the book says but it seemed like it was flooding it.

 

We need a tractor thread

 

Spent Saturday afternoon chasing electrical issues on the '69. Dash lights haven't been working, so I replaced the fuse (which had blown). Popped it again as soon as I turned the headlights on. All of the gauges were still working fine, so I've been putting it off (because I hate chasing electrical problems, lol), but a rainy Saturday seemed like the perfect opportunity to hide in the garage and rip my dashboard apart
3 hours later, after tracing every wire from the engine bay to the fuse box, from the fuse box to the switch, and from the switch to the dash looking for cracked insulation, frayed wires, burnt fusible links, etc. I was able to find the problem and fix it.

The back side of the dash panel on this truck is made of aluminum, and is grounded to the chassis. The dash lights are supplied by individual 'hot' wires that come into crimp connection in the bakelite fitting that contacts the base of the bulb, and the retaining pieces for the fitting complete the circuit against the grounded dash panel housing. Turns out that one of the crimp connections (circled below) hadn't been tight enough at the factory, and after 49 years of vibration the wire had worked its way loose and welded itself to the negatively charged bulb housing. So every time power was supplied to that circuit it shorted and popped the fuse. And since it was inside a bakelight cover, of course you couldn't see it unless you actually pulled the bulb out of the fitting and looked at the wire


3 hours chasing wiring for a 10 second fix

 

thats like the fusible links...whoever thought that up needed to get slapped with a cinderblock...

 

Pretty much. Just make it an inline fuse; you can tell at a glance if it's toast.

 

I think that was the "idea" with fusible links but when the plastic doesnt melt you cant find the problem...LOL guess they didnt think of that

 

Here's what I'm working on right now. It's a 1963 Mercedes 190Dc. Currently rebuilding the front end and the entire brake system.

 

I finally ordered a 4 link, step notch and airbags for the rear of my 49.

 

I think of this when I have to help people do basic maintenance on their vehicle....such as change brake pads and rotors...

 

Any update on this? Love to see the progress on this build

 

Bump! I used this to get parts for my Tacoma once. Can't tell ya how many times I've done the reverse over the years?!

 

A bored and milled 292 would be a great substitution.