"Besond" Heated Seats DIY in a 2015 Tacoma

HEATED SEATS DIY INSTALL​

The thread I followed below was good, great in fact for giving me the idea that products like this do exist and the "how to" for wiring it up in general terms. However me, not being the most confident with wiring (like many on here) I'm gonna make a very detailed, picture oriented DIY for even the regular Schmuck who is tired of freezing his ass off driving to *insert place here* can resolve that issue with just half a day, some basic tools/materials, and some diligent "monkey-see-monkey-do". Enjoy.

I gained the idea from Singu1arity (it won't let me tag him) and his thread:
"How I wired my aftermarket seat heaters in my 2nd gen Tacoma, lots of pictures."





This is the product link used in this thread from Amazon -- LINK HERE

OTHER LINKS I FOUND HELPFUL:​

- LIEBLWEB 2007 Toyota Tacoma Heated Seat Install
- TW HomerTaco's DIY: Leather Interior
- Youtube How to install leather seat covers on a 2005-2016 Toyota Tacoma

*Disclaimer: Take everything in this thread with a grain of salt. Aftermarket accessories are one of (if not the) leading cause of vehicle fires. Ensure proper electrician work is done and that safety remains paramount for the past, present, and future projects i.e. while it's all apart make sure your wiring is 100% up to par*



PARTS NEEDED:
- (~15ft) 10 Gauge RED Wiring
- (~3ft) 10 Gauge BLACK Wiring
- (2) Add-A-Fuse for the Interior Fuse Box mini fuses - (1) IGN Pwr, (1) Night Pwr
- Extra 5A mini fuses to plug into the Add-A-Fuses
- 10-12Gauge Butt Connectors
- 3/16" Heat Shrink Tubing
- Wire Stripper/Crimper
- Multimeter (if you're double checking power sources *recommended*)
- Dykes
- Zip Ties
- Flathead Screwdriver
- Phillips Head Screwdriver
- Possibly a 10mm socket with extension (center console)
- Coat Hanger Wire (to route the + wiring through the firewall)
- DeWalt Hog Ring Pliers Kit -- Link found HERE
- Needle Nosed Pliers

INTERIOR TRIM REMOVAL & SWITCH INSTALL​

STEP 1:
-Unscrew the shifter knob (told you this was gonna be dummy proof )




STEP 2:
- Pull up the center console shifter bezel. It's easiest to grab both hands on one side, pop the clips out of the far corners, then repeat the same for the other pops out completely.




STEP 3:
- Unscrew your center console, there will be (2) Phillips Head Screws holding it into place.
- I have a Center Console Vault so I have 2 additional screws on the bottom plate of the vault. I don't remember if there's usually 2 screws INSIDE of the center console to unscrew if you don't have the vault, if so. Un-do those as well.

Driver Side:



Passenger Side:




Step 4:
- Remove the transmission bezel guide (best way I could think of describing it)
- There is one clip on the side per corner, simply lift outboard, pull up slightly to get it to unhook, and repeat for all 4 corners, then pull it out and set that along with the plastic shifter guard off to the side.

Driver Side:


Passenger Side:




STEP 5:
- Unscrew the (2) Phillip Head Screws out in order to remove the forward portion of the center console assembly. BE SURE NOT TO LOSE THE SCREWS, THIS MAY OR MAY NOT BE WHY ONLY 1 IS PICTURED BELOW




STEP 6:
- Pop out the A/C climate control face
- There are clips on each corner and it comes straight out, use a small flathead screwdriver, or a plastic trim removal tool
- There will be 2 push clip harnesses on the back of it (you can see their blurry image in the background), remove those as well.




STEP 7:
- Reach your hand in the back and pop out the switch blanks
- Remove the heated seat switch from the green female plug and route that green female plug from underneath, through the open switch slot.
- Do this for both sides (it helps to guide it with a thin, long flathead screwdriver)
- I connected the switch at this point because (theoretically if all goes according to plan) I won't have to mess with this "plug and play" portion

The Empty Slots:


The Green Female Plug End Routed Through:


The Green Female Plug End that connects with the Heated Seat Switch:

 

HEATED SEATS DIY INSTALL - II

WIRING​

STEP 8: WIRING THE HEATED SEATS

LOCATIONS:​

RED - Positive Battery Terminal or Under The Hood Fuse Block
RED/YELLOW - Interior Fuse Box (IGN or WSH slot)
YELLOW - Interior Fuse Box (TAIL slot)
BLACK - Common Ground (under center console)




The RED WIRE – "Connect to Accessory Power" (10A): Constant Power
- I cut the in-line 10A fuses off pretty close to where the two separate plugs that go into the relay are *NOTE: there is a butt connection closer to where the harness separates into two (plug for the relay, and plug to the heated seat pads pictured directly below)*



- I then stripped, and twisted the 2 smaller gauge wires together from each switch






- After twisting them, I connected them with the larger 10 gauge wiring using a butt connecter and some heat shrink. You could use solder to ensure the connection stays put forever, but I knew these would remain under my center console so there's minimal to zero movement with the wiring so I felt comfortable just crimping, using electrical tape, and heat shrinking them.



-Showing the crimp exposed. I was using smaller butt connectors than I should have but I tugged on it and it didn't budge so I called it good. Taped and heat shrank it up.



-Pictured below is an example of my connections from the 2 switch harness smaller wires going into larger 10 gauge wiring for the RED/YELLOW, BLACK, and RED wiring.
The YELLOW smaller wires are off to the side in the bottom, I later connected those to my "night power" with my OTRATTW switches.... all is explained more below.



- I then ran that RED 10 gauge wire through my firewall to my Blue Sea Fuse Block mount that I have in the engine bay --> You however, will run ONLY your RED constant power wire to the positive battery terminal

- I chose to do it that way, because
1.) I had the fuse block already there, but..
2.) So I could have one central fuse location so that would minimize places to look when/if something wasn't working



The RED/YELLOW WIRE – "Connect to Ignition Power" (5A):
-I still cut out the 5A in-line fuses, and repeated the steps from the RED WIRE above to link the smaller (2) switch harnesses wires into a single 10 gauge wire

- Run the single 10 gauge wire over to the INTERIOR CAB FUSE PANEL
- Crimp the single 10 gauge wire into the Add-A-Fuse that you have
- Add heat shrink/electrical tape/whatever to secure it



- Locate where you want to put your Add-A-Fuse using the INTERIOR CAB FUSE PANEL diagram on the back of that pointless coin holder/storage cubby
- For me, I'm going to choose the WSH slot in the very bottom left of the fuse panel



To re-iterate so you don't have to scroll:
- For me, I'm going to choose the WSH slot in the very bottom left of the fuse panel
- When looking at the fuse panel it is right by where my little yellow flathead screw driver is pointing to, that red 10A fuse to the left of the yellow 20A fuse on the bottom row



- The existing 10A fuse (WSH or IGN) will go on the bottom closest to the Add-A-Fuse prongs that go in the fuse panel... and your new 5A fuse for the "ignition power" will go in that top slot you see below pictured for your reference and you can see the open slot where I will be plugging it into in the background by the Add-A-Fuse top prong




- Plug the Add-A Fuse Back into the INTERIOR CAB FUSE PANEL in the original slot you chose (WSH or IGN), in this case it's in the WSH slot




- This will only allow access to the seat heaters when the key is in the ignition and turned, minimizing the risk for battery drain when the vehicle is off.



The YELLOW WIRE – "Connect to Headlight/Night Lamp Power" (5A):
- I piggybacked the power for this from my OTRATTW switches in the center console, which are using an Add-A-Fuse in the cab fuse box and I believe tapped into the spare location on the top row in between the TAIL and ACC slots
- In the other write up, he used the same method of the Add-A-Fuse and tapped into the TAIL (taillight) power, so when you turn your night running lights/headlights on then the switches will light up with the interior cab lights as well just as they would illuminate your tail lights for night driving



The BLACK WIRE – "Common Ground Point":
- I used the same grounding spot that I utilized for those center console OTRATTW switches. For the crayon munchers I went ahead and took pictures of the ground point.
- These are looking toward the rear of the vehicle, in the bottom of the picture, you can see the edge of the shifter plastic & in the top you can see the lower lip of the center console (arm rest area).
- The grounding location is to the right of the 2 YELLOW wires




- A closer picture of the ground location

 

HEATED SEATS DIY INSTALL III​

PASSENGER SEAT UPHOLSTERY REMOVAL​

STEP 1:
-Remove the plastic part of the handle that leans the seat back
- In the picture there's a cutout that almost looks like a field goal post, that clips into that hole in the metal handle
- Take a small flathead screwdriver and pry up while pulling the plastic part toward the front of the seat and it will slide off




STEP 2:
-Flip the seat up, there are 2 plastic clips holding that black lower backing, peel those off, they are clipped onto the intertwining metal rods underneath






STEP 3:
- Remove the yellow wire from the intertwining metal rods





Step 4:
- Remove the plastic panel on the seat belt clip side
- Unscrew the phillips head screw on the back of the seat




- Pull the back portion out (over that round metal shape on the rear) so it clears
- While pulling outboard, also pull the plastic piece back toward the rear of the seat
- It's held on by one of those white clips (pictured below) -- I believe it's the same clip used in your doors if you've pulled the panels off




- Pull out the black plastic clip holding that little side tail of upholstery.
- I always use this plastic trim removal tool for those little clips so I don't break their edges, it worked great




STEP 5:
- Now time for the other side (without the seat belt)
- Remove the phillips screw from the backing




- There's a plastic male end that goes into the hole where the first yellow piece of tape is (to the left) so that needs to be pulled outboard
- Similar to the seat belt side, you need to push this plastic trim piece toward the front of the chair to fully remove it




- A close up of the holes you need to get the plastic piece out of, and the one you need to clear when sliding the trim forward




STEP 6:
- Just as you did with the other side, remove that little plastic trim removal tool for those little clips so I don't break their edges, it worked great




STEP 7:
- Remove the plastic clips (some are similar to the ones you removed earlier)
- Start with one side and work your way around to the other (I started on the side with the white "door panel" plastic clip
- The ones in the front of the chair are the toughest - if you reference the Youtube video I posted as being helpful above, he makes it look easy and I don't know what tool he's using but I just used my fingers and got them off through some grit and a few swear words here and there
- I found what works best is pulling back on the clip closest to the edge, that lifts the other edge of the clip (what you need to get over the metal edge) just enough for you to get your fingers underneath and pry the clip off-- starting on one side and working your way across until it pops off












STEP 8:
- Un-do the plastic clips in the back and pull that black cloth through


- At this point the bottom seat cushion should just be able to lift up and you can set that off to the side






STEP 9:
- Lift up the remaining upholstery (on the back portion of the seat) to expose the rods that are on either side and there will be hog rings (staples that have been bent in a circle to hold whatever is there, in this case the rods)
- Cut out the hog rings with dykes, or something that will be able to cut through them
- Pictured below is the hog rings (2 per rod) that are attached to the rods on either side






STEP 10:
- After cutting the hog rings off, pull the rods out



STEP 11:
- Lift up the upholstery as much as you can
- You have to shimmy each side slowly to get it up high enough that you think you can fit the heated seat pad on correctly without any additional cutting and upholstery removal





STEP 12:
- Cut the horizontal bar's 2 hog rings (refer to the picture above it's right where it's rolled up to)
- You won't be able to fit the heat pad all the way on the backrest without doing this and there's no way to wedge it under... might as well do it right since you're hacking away anyhow!
- After this you're DONE with the back rest... now move back to the butt cushion





STEP 13:
- I cut the seat belt buckle side first, much of why the same reason I started with the passenger seat... if I fck up, I won't see it as often, or at all!
- Anyway, there's actually 4 hog rings in the side bar that you'll need to snip (1 more in the lower portion of the picture that isn't emphasized with yellow electrical tape)
- I found it a lot easier to pull the cushion to the side, allowing plenty of room for my dykes to get in there and get ahold of the hog ring for me to squeeze & cut it
***Ignore hobbit feet***



STEP 14:
- Cut the 2 hog rings for the horizontal bar -- this will allow you to flip the upholstery over to the side that I DID NOT CUT that way it's just 1 less thing to potentially mess up on, or have to re-do
- Pictured below you can see the (4) vertical AND (2) horizontal bar's hog rings that you need to find and cut




- This is the final appearance of how your seats should look





- Now to laying the heating pads/elements!

 

HEATED SEATS DIY INSTALL IV

LAYING THE HEATING ELEMENTS

&​

PUTTING THE UPHOLSTERY BACK ON​

STEP 1:
- The instructions (from what I could read between the torn pieces, thanks dogs) stated for you to cut a piece of your seat's foam out for the heating element thermostat...
- I did this on the passenger seat butt cushion, but didn't do it for therest because it's so thin I don't think it makes a difference. Plus I'll always be rockin' Wet Okole seat covers so I won't feel it what-so-ever
*EDIT: I sat in the seat covers once assembled and haven't been able to feel the thermostat on the cushions I didn't cut out a spot*

- Anyway.. mark higher on the foam with a Sharpie where the cutout is for your horizontal bar's hog rings, just as I did above the bottom (2) pieces of yellow electricians tape



- Here's another example of my marking up higher on the foam where the hog ring cut out is at



STEP 2:
- Position the heating element where you want it - if you want it more toward the rear, or if you want your hamstrings to get some heat too where the seat curves toward the front
*This is not long enough to cover the entirety of the butt cushion*




STEP 3:
- Push the heating element into the crack and mark where you need to cut out for the horizontal bar and the hog rings placement
- In the picture below you can see the outer edge of the hog ring cut out matches up with the edge of the box I'm cutting out
- Near the tip of my screwdriver there's a thick black Sharpie dot --> I made this on both sides so when I have an known spot to wedge that heating element back in to the crease once I make my cut

DSC_0017 by Mark Roberto, on Flickr


- Again pictured here are the thick black Sharpie dots I was talking about above
- The inner and outer (outer would be the edge of the box) hog ring cut outs



STEP 4:
- After you mark your heating element and cut out the middle section so your horizontal bar doesn't rub or get heated up and mess with your heating element it should look like this:




STEP 5:
- Make sure all of the heating pad stays on the seat
- Anything hanging over I trimmed - I found this only to be necessary on the back cushion
- You can see where I marked for trimming a few pictures above, and this one below highlighted by my handy scrap yellow electricians tape in the upper corners




STEP 6:
- Now, ready to lay the heating element
- I made a cut across the material protecting the adhesive so I could lay the heating element into the crease and stick one side at a time down
- I would fold up a corner for both sides so I wouldn't have to mess with it when sticking down the element because I didn't want to mess with the adhesive since I only get one shot really...
- I found I always stuck the upper portion on the back cushion, and the side closest to the "rear" of the seat on the butt cushion



STEP 7:
- Now put it all back together!
- Honestly the first chair took FOR-FREAKING-EVER and the second one took almost no time at all in comparison
- The hog rings suck putting back on, and the DeWalt hog ring pliers don't go deep enough to actually utilize them
- So what I did was clamp rings around the rope your rods attach to, loosen them a little bit with needle nose pliers
- I pushed the rod tight with the rope so both were inside of the hog ring and then used the needle nosed pliers to clamp, or crimp it down TIGHT

- This was by far the most tedious and time consuming/frustrating part.
- It goes faster with the second chair... but not by much

STEP 8:
- Run the wiring from the relay in your center console, underneath the carpet so it comes out of the OEM already cut out hole near the air vent hole (but not that one)... the one where there's your seat's OEM wiring harness.

- Hook up the heating element plugs to the (2) switches that connect to your relay and then to your switches under the A/C controls

STEP 9:
- Re-Install your seats (thank goodness!!)

STEP 10:
- Sit back, relax, crack a(nother) cold one & enjoy










THANKS FOR STICKING THIS OUT WITH ME, I HOPE YOU GUYS ENJOYED IT!


*SIDE NOTE*
I have Wet Okole Seat Covers, and I could definitely feel my heated seats kick on after about 3-4 minutes of driving

 

Looks good so far! Part 2 is the part I need to see! LOL

 

Haha yeah part 1 is the easy part
Waiting for daylight to continue tomorrow so pictures will be similar

 

Thanks man! I'll be doing this mod soon. I'm curious to know the size and quantity of the hog rings for the seat reassembly. Then I'll buy it all.

 

If got a DeWalt kit with the tool and a box of rings at tractor supply.
The seats in my 06 have a tuck in the middle of the seat going side to side. There's s metal rod hog ringed to the seat cushion. I kept most of it cutting the mat about an inch wider in both directions. The tuckt is wider than the mat. I didn' thread the rod back in completely so it wouldn't pull on the ends of the tuck.

It doesn't look bad imo..


Suggestion to the OP; fuse the seats separately if you can. Makes for easier troubleshooting and if you lose one, you don't lose both.
After i cut the fuse holders on mine, I used a large lamp cord made for low voltage landscape lighting it was a #14. One shot, 2 feeds through the firewall grommet. Not having an aux fuse panel, I spliced the fuse holders onto the lamp cord and ring terminal to the battery.
The nice thing about the lamp cord is that the id for each wire is molded into the jacket. Not the writing. You'll feel ribs or a squared off corner.

 

Nice. Is there a suggested size or quantity of hog rings?

 

The kit I bought has more rings than I'll probably ever use. More than adequate in imo for this project. As for quantity, replace what you cut. You can't put them wherever you want. My seat cover has 3 rods that get tied to the rods in the seat cushion. I couldn't tell you how many rings I wasted because I didn't get both rods in the tool. Twas a biotch...
Take the seats apart. It's much easier to manipulate the seat or back when they're separated.
This is what i got:

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/dewalt-hog-ring-pliers-kit?cm_vc=-10005

 

It's gonna be a few days before I take the upholstery off the seats since I have to research a ton before I go disassembling it and not know how to put it back together with the OEM look and tightness.

Hmm not sure what you're speaking of with the metal rod hog ringed to the seat cushion and how you dealt with all that.
Do you have any pictures??


BTW I spy with my lil combat hunter eye, a woodland boonie cover
Rahhh

 

BTW, the 2nd post is updated with pictures... trying to make this barney style

 

Just a couple pics. Get a pair of electricians diagonal cutters to cut out the existing hog rings. You'll need them.

 

Thanks for pics. Does the metal cross wire go on top of or under the heat element?

 

Under. I made a couple holes where the rod goes through the tube of the seat cover so i could sneak it under the sides of the heat mat.



Edit: that rod arched up a little on the ends after I got the hog rings in the middle of the seat. I would suggest tape or shrink tube on the ends so that it can't possibly rub through and come in contact with the power running the length of the mat on the sides.

 

Updated the wiring post (#2) and began taking apart the passenger chair in my living room & documenting

 

Thread updated to include removal of the upholstery...



If anyone buys this heating element can they take pictures, or scan the directions for others (.....maybe myself)?

My roommates dogs and/or my own pup *not my sweet Aussie*
chewed the ever living hell out of the directions.

Please & Thank You!

 

Oh no.

 

Was part 2 in regards to taking the seats apart, or wiring up the switches?

 

Nice post! Sub'd for a later mod.