The Death Trap - Street Build TRD Supercharged 2011 SR5

Truck: 2011 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 SR5 manual transmission with 1GR-FE

TRD supercharged

Color: Silver Streak Mica

Original owner since November 2010.

Updated November 4, 2023.



Note: where items are preceded by "custom", that indicates an engineered solution by yours truly.

Engine/Fuel:

TRD Supercharger (Power/torque at wheels: 400hp/450ftlbs)

1.87" supercharger pulley (16psi boost) by Smoothflow Pulleys and 70.1" belt, belt re-route to maximize drive pulley belt wrap ("noose mod")

4140 custom designed supercharger tensioner studs upgrade (message me for a set).

Performance camshafts by Kelford Cams

3 degree retard exhaust camshaft gears (from URD)

UCON-EMS by URD

7th Injector by URD

URD TCAI with URD air filter

Upgraded supercharger reservoir tank (by @mightytacoman)

Custom fuel cooler

Red Bullet VVT-i solenoids

RIPP Superchargers coil packs with NGK Ruthenium plugs

Snow performance water/methanol injection - two separate systems - stage 1 @ 250ml/min (AEM V3 nozzle, nylon lines) and stage 2 referencing MAF reading @ 425ml/min (one #2 nozzle at 175ml/min and one #4 nozzle at 250ml/min, braided stainless lines), 2 Bosporus Racing check valves

Custom bed mounted water/methanol reserve tank with transfer pump; custom aluminum engine bay reservoir

Walbro 255lph fuel pump upgrade (kit by URD)

76mm Tundra throttle body (adapter by URD)

Solid Offroad motor and transmission mounts (great upgrade - talk to @Bonzen for those)

Moroso oil accumulator with Canton solenoid valve - manual switch activated - 10AN braided stainless lines


Exhaust:

URD spec-U equal-length headers

Custom 3" straight-through axle turn-down exhaust with Magnaflow muffler and two Vibrant silencers

URD Y-pipe

Synapse Engineering NoDrone Resonator


Cooling:

Throttle body coolant shut-off ball valve

Custom intercooler capacity upgrade (2nd pump and 2nd radiator)

4-Core radiator by Champion cooling systems; shroud by Ledfoot Racing, Spal 16" electric fan

External engine oil cooler - Mocal thermostatic sandwich adapter with custom 10AN braided steel lines

NST lightweight water pump pulley

NST lightweight supercharger crank pulley


Powertrain:

Competition Clutch stage IV

Ultra light weight steel flywheel from URD

Eaton Detroit TruTrac rear LSD carrier

URD hydro bearing kit (Mustang bearing retrofit) and clutch accumulator delete

Electronic 2-Lo kit


Suspension:

Front and rear Addco sway bars

Custom front "franken-strut" stiffening/leveling kit with sawed-off OME springs and Bilstein 5100

Hellwig rear spring helpers



Wheels and Brakes:

Winter:
V-Tec 326 matte black - 20x9 +30 offset

Tires Bridgestone Blizzak 275/55/20

Summer:
Rays Volk Racing TE37 Diamond Dark Gunmetal 20x9.5 +0 offset

Tires Nitto NT420 305/50/20

2", 3", and 1" spacers swapped out as I feel it

Hawk HPS 5.0 brake pads


Lights:

OSRAM Super Bright Premium High Wattage Headlight Bulb H4 (Single)

LED fog lights and turn signals

Corner light to fog light hack (fog lights turn on with first stage of headlights)

Upgraded high-wattage front turn signal bulbs


Entertainment System:

Alpine iDA-x305 head unit with direct iPod connectivity

JL Audio door speaker replacements

JL Audio HD900/5 (subwoofer unused currently)

Alpine MRV-M500 (for 18" subwoofer)

JL Audio moulded-fit fibreglass box, behind passenger side rear seat (currently not used)

Subwoofer: Skar Audio 18" dual 4 ohm with dedicated amp and crossover unit (for future 2nd 18" subwoofer)

(not in truck right now, but

$250 Alpine SWT-10S4 Alpine SWT-10S4

Alpine SWT-10S4 truck subwoofer HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for when your JL box is not deactivated)

2 Farad capacitor


Interior:

Two URD short shifters combined with Hurst short shifter

Custom billet titanium shift knob

Fake Sparco Veloce steering wheel with NRG spacer and NRG hub

Console cupholder delete and added switch panels

Overhead switch panel

G37 Coupe heated front seats


Other:

High output alternator by Singer Alternators

VoltageBoosterPRO

Energizer AGM battery

Pedal Commander

Custom cruise control switch relocation to cupholder area

Grade 2 titanium M8 bolt upgrade for supercharger manifold lid

Ark splash guards

Boost gauge

Dual AFR gauges

Oil pressure gauge

Fuel pressure gauge

Water temperature gauge

Air intake temperature gauge

Aluminum washer fluid tank designed by Detsom Customs and fabricated by Zurgeon Customs

-------------------------------------
Would like to thank the following members for helping me out with various aspects of this project:

@12TRDTacoma
@Roostfactor
@White lightning boosted
@BassAckwards
@Bonzen
@Speedwaytacotuesday
@mightytacoman
@TodayWasTHeDaY
@Torspd

 

subd

 

How do you like this combo? I just ordered the same pair for my 6spd, and I'm curious how the lightweight flywheel is

Do you have any chirping from the TOB after doing this? I was going to upgrade to this as well, but they were out of stock, so I went with the sleeve & larger TOB for the time being..

Are you running the same diameter tires, just a wider one? I'm guessing yes since youre a 4wd

Curious how you combined these? I'm thinking about going with a TRD SS after reading about the URD ones breaking the ball off over time

Got any pics of your gauges and how you mounted them? also why the dual AFRs? and where did you mount your sensors in the exhaust piping? I've read that its best to mount them before the front Cats

Sorry for all the questions.. Just so much good stuff going on in here..

Loving your build! Definitely taking some inspiration from yours for mine

 

Your text included with answers below each....

How do you like this combo? I just ordered the same pair for my 6spd, and I'm curious how the lightweight flywheel is

I like it a lot, this is actually the second 3+ clutch and they've improved it since the first one I had. It is a lot more driveable. It's heavy - but not bad. The flywheel is very light, I think it was around half the weight of stock or less, but it's still very driveable.

Do you have any chirping from the TOB after doing this? I was going to upgrade to this as well, but they were out of stock, so I went with the sleeve & larger TOB for the time being..

Yes, I have an intermittent sort of quiet "flutter" noise. It will come for a few days then be gone for a few days. It's only when the clutch pedal is down. With the kit, URD supplies an adapter that is held onto the clutch pressure plate with a clip, my theory is there's a little bit of play in the adapter and it's squeaking when it slowly rotates to a certain position. The clutch functions fine, and I'm not worried about mechanical failure. I would have to remove the transmission to fix it, which is an outstandingly painful job, so I'll live with it.



Are you running the same diameter tires, just a wider one? I'm guessing yes since youre a 4wd

That's correct, the tires in the rear are lower aspect ratio to make them pretty close to the same diameter as the fronts (like within 0.2").

Curious how you combined these? I'm thinking about going with a TRD SS after reading about the URD ones breaking the ball off over time

EDIT - the URD ball did break my shaft before I combined it with Hurst. I believe Hurst uses better metal for their shifter than Toyota did. I'm not worried about it. I've had them working together for a couple of years now.

I did have to grind out metal using a dremel from the two little half-moon spacers that come with the URD kit in order to fit their shifter ball onto the Hurst shaft. I actually made it so it is a press fit - I banged the URD ball onto the Hurst ball with a hammer. It's not coming off. I don't need to use the URD set screw because it's pressed on. Sorry I don't have any pictures of this install.

Got any pics of your gauges and how you mounted them? also why the dual AFRs? and where did you mount your sensors in the exhaust piping? I've read that its best to mount them before the front Cats

I will take a picture this afternoon of the interior, I need some new ones for this thread.

EDIT - Dual AFRs, one on each bank, so I can more easily diagnose where a fuel problem is coming from, if it ever happens. I don't have cats, but I believe you're correct on putting them before cats if you have them. Mine are at the end of the headers.

Sorry for all the questions.. Just so much good stuff going on in here..

Thanks man, ask questions any time, I love talking about it.

Loving your build! Definitely taking some inspiration from yours for mine

That's all I really hope for.

 

Thanks for the info! Just what i was looking for

 

@rjbiii I made a couple of edits, noticed I hadn't answered a couple of your questions the first time....

 

Sweet !!

 

@rjbiii Here are some pictures of the interior/gauges:

 

Awesome looking interior! Whats the little red switch for at the front of you cup holder?

 

That activates the tail pipe injectors. It causes an enormous flame to shoot out the tail pipe.

Just kidding. It's for my ejector seat.

Just kidding again. It's actually for my water/meth injection. I wanted a switch to deactivate the system at will rather than have it linked to the ignition. Here it can get mind-blowingly cold in winter, and there'd be no point in having it on while driving.

 

@rjbiii not meaning to become your stalker or anything, but I followed you on instagram.... I'm posting my car and truck projects on there all the time. @ra60f if you're interested

 

lol its all good, I will follow you as well, but just a fair warning my IG game is weak.. I rarely post on there.. mostly stick to TW

 

@rjbiii I totally forgot to mention this. The stage 3+ clutch with the hydro bearing is really, really painful to drive while it's breaking in. It has this super pop thing going on that's hard to control. So if you feel that, don't fret, there's nothing wrong. It'll go away after 500km or so. Then it settles to an excellent point.

 

@rjbiii oh, and you might need to re-adjust the pedal after break in.

 

Thanks for the heads up! Is it the herky jerky whenever its just about to engage?

 

Kind of, yeah. It's like 'ahh so soft and nice' BAM launches your foot into orbit then engages and causes an embarrassing stall.

 

Haha oh boy.. looking forward to the break in

 

Oh, and another thing... the clutch does chatter off the line. It's not terrible, one learns how to drive it so that doesn't happen. It's part of racetruck life.