How I wired my aftermarket seat heaters in my 2nd gen Tacoma, lots of pictures.

Currently making a thread documenting my DIY How-To and experience with em

 

Finished modding the switches last night, I changed the sickly green leds to white and desoldered the led+/- wires from the main board so they can be ganged with the other switches in the bank for dimming. Maybe by next fall I'll get them installed. Wasn't going to change color at first but dropped one while modding the switch board to better illuminate the roller indicator and rolled with it, fuckers are tiny and my eyes aren't as good as they used to be.

 

Hi, I noticed that when I use my heated seats, only the back element is heating up for both the seats. The element installed on the seats (where my butt is) are not heating up for either seat.

The only difference between this write up and what I did is that for the main red cable, I did not splice them together. Instead I gave them each their own line to the battery, as suggested by another user further up in the thread.

 

The wire splits in the harness so either the plugs aren't connected correctly or the splices broke(they're soldered and taped inside the outer covers). This shouldnt have anything to do with the switches or control modules.

 

Another question for you good sir, Im about to (finally!) install this lower center panel in my truck. I ordered the specific cigg lighter that fits into the 12-15 panel, but im curious, can I reuse the power wires that went to my 06 panel cigg lighters in the to the 12-15 cigg lighter? (My guess would be yes....just wanted to confirm).

 

Just to be clear on everything. The '06 has a cigg lighter port and a power port. The 12-15 has 2 power ports. The holes in the panel are different between lighter and power port. From memory, I'm 91% sure there's 3 parts to the power port. The port, the hinged cover, and the plastic thing that holds it all together. Also from memory, to remove the port, I'm 43% sure, you push the tabs from the inside of the port. I do remember it wasn't really obvious how it comes apart. I remember looking at the new parts to figure it out.

Yes, the wiring connector from the lighter will plug right onto the power port.

 

This is how I wired mine using the less expensive Hi/Lo round plug. I am going to put a switch in the open hole to disconnect the seat heater so I can have only back heat for long road trips etc.

Simple and easy mount with no dash mods required and easy for driver to reach both driver seat heater and passenger side as well. Used metal cutoff wheel in grinder to cut the box.

 

Anyone having any long term issues with the Besond seat heater kit? I haven’t had any obvious issues with mine but I’m planning on checking all the power lines/connectors and opening the modules next time I pull the covers for washing. Since they use solid state controls there is an FET in the module that controls the current. It’s common in that situation for the FET to be most abused on the middle settings where more power is being dissipated and for the connectors to be most abused at the higher settings. My concern with the kit stems from changes in wire size within the harness so that what you see at the fuse holder is not the same as the rest of the harness. Since they obviously just spliced aftermarket fuse holders onto the harness it’s likely that the fuse holder wires are oversized and the rest of the harness may be adequate but the problems cropping up with 3rd gen oem modules and 2nd gen heater controls has me wondering about this again.

 

I've had the Besond heaters in my truck for about 20 months now without issue--the driver's side is pretty much constantly on in the max power position.

In my case I removed the inline fuse holders and wired them straight to my aux fuse panel with 16awg, though, so I can't comment on that portion. Since I put ShearComfort Cordura seat covers on they're more difficult to feel above all the fabric but they're still one of my favorite mods.

 

@bagelboy 2nd gens didn't offer heated seats that I know of.
I've got the besond heaters and haven't had an issue with them for a couple winters now.
I too moved the fuses to the battery. It would be better imo to package them separately. Control power comes from a switched with the key circuit via an add a fuse.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/besond-heated-seats-diy-in-a-2015-tacoma.550480/#post-17889375

 

- Limited Package: SofTex-trimmed heated front sport seats with 4-way adjustable driver’s seat, 18-in. chrome-clad alloy wheels with P265/60R18 tires, chrome grille surround and rear bumper, color-keyed front bumper and overfenders, chrome fog light housing, chrome door handles, chrome power outside mirrors with turn signal indicator, fog lights, 115V/400W deck powerpoint, variable-speed wipers, metallic-toned instrument panel trim, leather-trimmed steering wheel with audio controls and shifter, dual sun visors with mirrors and extenders, auto-dimming mirror with monitor and outside temperature gauge and HomeLink universal transceiver; Limited badge, includes remote keyless entry system, cruise control, sliding rear window with privacy glass and Display Audio with Navigation, Entune and JBL

 

Oh damn....TIL

 

Yeah, it’s the third gens that are having issues with the seat heaters but ours have issues with the blower resistor connector. I merely mention both because the Besond harness seems so sketchy to me. I’m glad that other than a switch problem or two they seem to be reliable but anytime I add aftermarket electronics I try to be thorough and ongoing with monitoring when I have doubts. I basically eliminated most of the power supply portions of the harnesses and wired them to a remote fuse panel and ground buss under the cup holder that are fed by #10 wire. Now there’s only 18” of the original wire left. At this point I’m mostly concerned with occasional inspections of the connectors to be sure there isn’t any discoloring that would indicate a hot terminal or wire.

 

My '15 Sport DCLB has them from the factory as well...Cloth seats. Canadian option I believe.

 

Thanks for the write up . This is next on my to do list

 

currently trying to figure out.
1. My truck seems to be pre wired from the factory for heated seats.
2. I have wet Okoles with their optional heated seats added.
3. Bought oem switches and they plugged into the factory harness behind the blanks. Also bought the fuses and relays for the factory fuse panel.

will post updates if I can wire the wet okole seat heaters into the factory harness.
These are factory wiring schematics I received from my local Toyota dealer.

 

Do you also have the control modules for each seat? They receive the variable voltage signal from the switch roller and use that to modulate the current from the 30A fuse/relay. It’s shown as part of the seat assembly but with aftermarket heaters it’s a separate component. It may or may not have been included with your wet okole’s. Or it may be part of the oem harness.

 

Currently trying to locate that oem module, do you have any idea where it may be?
I saw the module for sale and I think it was about $90 per. Trying to keep it low cost, for that price I could buy the aftermarket heaters and switches that a lot of people are using without more headaches haha.