Alignment, Caster, Clearance, and Driving Report with Light Racing UCAs

I told you 4 times it was good & explained it to you back & forth for 72 posts since Sunday!!!!!!
For 5 days I've been telling you the same damn thing. I'm chill AF but it's become a broken record. Have a great day. I'm out!

*ETA*
I see you deleted your posts in between mine. I guess I should have quoted each of them. Oh well, take care.

 

If you’re still rubbing with those numbers, break out the angle grinder and Dremel tool!

 

I need some help please, A little info on my set up, icons 2.5 extended travel with CDC, almost 3” lift, 285-70-17KM2s wrapped around 17-8.5 Icon rebound wheels and spiderstrax wheel spacers. truck drives nice but the positive camber will eat my tires very soon, besides looks dumb, also is rubbing the fender big time when turning, specially in reverse, I did a mayor CMC (thanks Ryan) and removea lot of plastic from the inner fender, I have the LR UCAs set to D position, what are your suggestions regarding the numbers and the problems I just mentioned. This are the numbers I got from Firestone.

 

Your gonna need your caster at 3.0 and then set camber as close to 0.0 as they can get.But you have to tell them what numbers you want or they’ll set it for a stock Tacoma.

 

Should i move the BJ from D position to E position?

 

It may help give more clearance but it will make the caster worse. With them set in the D position they should be able get more caster which would also give more clearance.

 

Thanks!

 

@dirty deeds

 

I got the truck back from Firestone, this are the numbers:

Camber 0.2///0.0
Caster 2.5///2.4
Toe 0.05///0.05

no more rubbing and tires look straight

 

So I can make sure I understand...

After I install the SPC LR UCA's, but BEFORE I take it to get the alignment, I should:

1. MAX the caster on the LCA's
2. Set the UCA's to +1
3. Set camber via the UCA's adjustment slide (and maybe a vertical bubble level?)
4. Hope toe is close

OR

1. Set the LCA's to neutral
2. Set UCA's caster to +3
3. See 3 above
4. See 4 above

 

Can anyone tell me if this is
close enough...feeling kinda loose.

 

You need caster and lots more of it. Your camber could use some adjusting closer to zero as well.

 

all they did is set the toe. I would want them to do it right or a refund

 

I'm certainly unhappy! Should I need UCAs with 887s didnt get that much lift from them. One reason I went with 887s.

 

Couple hundred miles of mix driving post-alignment. Aside from the minor driveline vibrations that happened after lifting the rear, truck is tracking straight and my steering wheel is dead center. Thanks to everyones recommendation, I think the tech got things dialed in nicely with camber/toe on both sides set to 0 and caster at 3.1.



I'll report back after some more wheeling and commuting. Tires sit a bit too close to the ball joint for my liking with OEM wheels, but I have a set of wheels on the way from Discount Tire Direct that should fix that.

 

So I was told by a dealership today that this was the most he could do with the vehicle. 887s up front

 

884 or 885's would've been ideal if you wanted to avoid getting UCAs. 887 without added weight up front gives a pretty considerable lift (>2.5"), even without preloading the shocks...

Long story short, if you want to get the alignment spec right you will need to get UCAs. LF/RF camber and toe should be closer to 0* and your caster should be much higher with that much lift (3*-3.5*).

 

Here is my recent alignment and pic of the front of my truck. It drives well but looks like the Camber if off from just looking at it but numbers on alignment are not high.
My current setup is a Fabtech 3" lift with Fabtech Uniball UCA's. Does this look correct or should I have them tweak it more to get camber and toe at zero's?

 

Thanks...it drives decent for now after this last alignment, a lot better than it did yesterday coming from the toe-n-go place. It didnt bother me to get UCAs but I was under the impression that I could get closer with the 887s than what they are giving me. On the positive side I have no howl from the needle bearing...so that's a plus!

 

oh I thought you already had SPC UCA's. Since that is what this thread is all about. yeah you definitely need them and they should be able to get it perfect after you install them