Oil seep

I was definitely considering going that route.

I'll post a pic of the situation with that broken piece removed--I totally think a repair is safe for my case, as the piece that actually "caps" the camshaft is intact.

 

Belzona is what they use in the refineries and chemical plants down here in Houston in the machine shop,,, good stuff. Hope what ever, it works for you.

 

Like most things you want a deal on.......EBAY.

Edit: it would prob be stronger than the surrounding metal.

 

Well, bad news. After replacing the camshaft seals and the front crank seal, I now have an oil LEAK (possibly two!), versus the original (and comparatively minor) oil "seep."

I haven't torn back into it yet, but I'd appreciate anyone's further thoughts.

 

that crack looks scary, might want to take to a mechanic you trust.

 

How was it repaired?

 

JB Weld on the crack on the cam bearing cap. I meant to photograph the repair before reinstalling the valve cover, but I forgot.

Of possible additional note, RTV was not applied to the OD of the seals--just grease.

 

The crack looked scary to me at first. But when I realized the broken piece could not possibly get inside with the camshaft, I decided to attempt repair.

I'm gonna remove the #2 timing belt cover and check soon, but I'm pretty certain my attempt failed.

 

Hey, Sperrunner. Would you happen to have a vendor for a rebuilt head? I may well be needing one. (Passenger side.)
Thanks.

 

Idk any veders but im sure if you google it there is a few.

 

Did the JBWeld penetrate (ooze) out both sides of the crack then require filing or grinding in and out?

 

Op ive never had to buy new heads but this place looks legit

https://www.yotashop.com/toyota-4ru...4l-5vz-95-04-cylinder-head-complete-1000-002/

Or ive seen rebuilt heads on ebay for cheaper

 

No. I attempted to use as little as possible. My best guess right now, without yet having it apart, is that I didn't clean the area well enough (of oil.)

 

Thanks. I'll check it out.

 

Any little channel of a crack remaining won't cut it, has to be all the way across and as you said, able to stick to the surface well.
A dremel would be a good choice for refinishing the bore surface and a triangular file for the arch corner.


edit: Hate to say it (because I've been guilty of using a screwdriver to pop out a seal myself) but this is why a seal puller works best.

 

I was using a seal puller, but not the kind I wanted. I had pretty much this exact one-- http://www.sears.com/craftsman-seal-puller/p-00947645000P . Here's the one I wanted, but it was Sunday and I couldn't find it in my little town--https://

$20 Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller

www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K .

Actually, both Haynes and factory manuals said to cut the seal, then get it out with a screwdriver. Like it was not a big deal at all. We just couldn't get the screwdriver method to work. So then, we got the seal puller. It got the crank seal out no problem. The tool struggled with the driver's side cam, but got that one out also. Somehow, on the passenger side cam, we just couldn't get the angle just so, or we applied what leverage we had in the wrong direction. Then the piece broke off the bearing cap.

 

Oh, well,dam. I was assuming and really need to stop.

JMO but I would try a repair on the arch again before changing out a head over it. Maybe get lucky that it's an O.D. leak and not channeling out.
RTV would remedy that. That plastic coating they use on the seal steel ring has been pretty forgiving in my experience but sometimes you just get star crossed.
If you have an I.D. leak with a new seal and there's no score mark on the rotating object....I got nothing except just try again with a different seal.

 

Any chance the JBWeld just didn't cure?

 

That's my current guess--it didn't cure due to contamination of the epoxy with motor oil within the head. Or that I just didn't use enough of it.

 

We're gonna try a few things before I go buying a re-manned head. The price of that one Sperrunner above linked too is $680.