Drowned my Tacoma help

But a sacrificial junkyard one, it could get smoked if there’s a short in the truck’s wire harnesses or other circuits.

 

I say use his buddy's that told him "you just got to send it"

 

I'm guessing alcohol was involved

 

Gooood story!!!

 

sorry about the incomplete 'suggestions' - will try to complete now. ....

o-kay. Back to the passenger cabin. Need I mention that the battery should not be connected while you're doing all this ?oh crikey: And did you disable your airbag system? (gonna have to add/edit above post, this is important!)
Use that dielectric grease (note: from this point on I'm just going to refer to the dielectric grease as 'grease', ok?) --after ALL is thoroughly dry, mind you !!-use it everywhere there's an electrical connection: In the instrument cluster/display panels pull the little bitty lamps out of their sockets.
<<d'oh! -I don't even know if your truck uses 'light bulbs' !! Well, whatever it does use, the same principles apply- clean it, dry it, expose it, 'seal' it , put it back together> >
Use the needle files and/or the emery cloth to expose a fresh metal surface at all points of contact for both lamps and sockets . Apply a dab of (dielectric) grease, re-assemble. I kept a supply of q-tip swabs, popsickle sticks and toothpicks handy to use where the contact areas were small or restricted- behead the swab, put a small dollop of grease on the bare end, apply inside narrow openings, re-assemble.
This whole 'process' parallels the steps you take when your battery terminals get corroded- I was taught to use Vaseline as the 'sealer'. I'm a little better educated now (I think!) : DON"T do this. Don't use Vaseline- or any!- petroleum-based product. Petroleum and rubber do not play well together- gas or oil will 'melt' rubber, creating a sticky, gluey mess. Ask me how I know. Nah, just take my word for it! OTOH, dielectric grease is silicone-based. It's non-conductive: if you get some where you shouldn't it won't create a path for electricity to travel on and will seal out both moisture and oxygen, thus preventing oxidation (corrosion).

to be continued.
(again)

 

@Maricich_d I drowned my truck two years ago in 8ft of water. It sat that way over night. Getting the engine flushed out is a great start. What I did was put the truck in a small enclosed garage with space heaters, fans, and dehumidifiers. I let it set that way for a week with as many wires disconnected as possible. I ended up replacing maf sensor, O2 sensors. charcoal cannister, all fluids, passenger occupancy sensor, a catalytic converter, and the radio. You might have water in your gas. Drain that out and add a can of dry gas. Pm me so as to avoid trying to sort through this thread. This is all fixable for a reasonable price.

 

Buddy in another truck threw a tow strap to us to swim across with so the river didn't take us away. Water was moving pretty good

 

..."continued"

I 'liked' mightytacoman's post (above) especially for its brevity (!!!)....I should take a lesson there, a fact that was driven home rather painfully when I re-read my 2nd post on this particular thread. Re-iterating points already made is, too often, just a waste of time. Tired, my bad. Sorry!
++ @mightytacoman: excellent advice re: changing all fluids: (I was gettin' there, albeit slowly.....)
@Maricich_d: DO THIS! It's absolutely necessary. Both for the (now and future) functioning of your truck and for your peace of mind. Some key locations: engine oil, transmission or transaxle/transfer case, , differential(s), brakes, coolant,. Your A/C system should be completely sealed (in other words no fluids to drain and replace) however it _does_ have electrical components including switches and relays that will need the kind of attention I've already too painstakingly outlined. Ditto the power (or "power-assisted") steering.

I am pressed for time so I'll try (for the sake of my, as well as any future readers', sanity! ) to condense the remainder:
Things to remember as you return your rig to the road: Steering and suspension lubrication/ grease points. These will need your immediate attention .....IIRC your rig was in the current for several hours. Most suspension lubes are fairly 'water-resistant'- this means it won't wash out with a casual wash or rinse-off stream of water (like you'd apply with your garden hose as you wash your rig at home) but when the rate of flow is increased (like the 'high pressure rinse' at a car wash) or continued (while your truck sat in the river for...hours, say) the 'resistance' factor becomes pretty unpredictable. Check your balljoints, tie-rod ends, steering gear knuckles, any and all grease-able bushings, u-joints, suspension points etc etc: Re-grease (or replace!)
Re: engine bay:
Same basic steps apply here as do to passenger cabin: Remove every peripheral/accessory/cover possible. Disassemble, clean, dry, seal (isolate). Pay particular attention to the engine wiring harness: use care when unplugging components (don't pull on the wires, pull on the _connections_!)

And 'ditto' what mightytacoman said, above. ("change all fluids")

When I performed my successful "resurrections" I was fortunate enough to have a good friend as mentor and guide who had owned a successful auto repair business here in Sacramento for several years prior to his retirement. Looking back, it becomes obvious that I had a lot of luck on my side and in my favor. To wit: my successes are mostly attributable to a couple of key factors: I had my friend Nathan Ervin in my corner to use as 'back-up' when I got stumped; the vehicles I was working on were comparatively primitive as far as tech goes (no OBD, no fuel injection, no ECUs) , and... I'm stubborn.
If you have further questions or think I can be of any assistance whatsoever please PM me. I am always happy to help if I can-just be aware that I don't check my email as frequently as I should but I do, always, get around to it....I'll try to be better about that in future. In fact I guess I'll _have_ to be better given that I've just made such a public offer!

Good luck to you. Please keep us posted on your progress, etc. ....We'll be watching you.....

 

I am curious what an un-condensed version is? Carry on good fellow.

 

For real appreaciate all of the help! I'll keep y'all posted!!!

 

Tacotards!!!

 

great late night read! GL OP subbed for a solution!


someone suggested plugging in another ecu for testing, mb?

 

This thread went down like the Titanic.

 

o shazamit DOES THIS TRUCK HAVE A "CIRCUIT OPENING RELAY?"

@Maricich_d:

been trying to track a electric issue my Toy so reviewing wiring schematics- refreshed memory re: why FSM requires the COR be disconnected (as easiest- to me- means of disabling fuel pump).- I mean "hey, there's a fuse AND a relay, why can't I just unplug them?"......further research and careful look at wiring schematics revealed answer.

worth checking if u r still struggling/////////

 

Wow'ser… how can one not sub

 

You Army helo dawgs stay over the nice safe ground with all the rocks and trees and wires and stuff. We Navy helo dawgs got this. Now hold my beer...

 

Any updates?

 

Dammit

 

Holy fuck!!!

 

So, either the truck fell on him and killed him, or he gave up and is too embarrassed to admit that he had it towed to the dealer, or he gave up and is selling parts on Craigslist.

@RedRider133 You're his friend. What's the latest?