3.4L TRD Supercharger rebuild

I've bought new ones and I've reused old one before. As long as there are no rips and you tighten the SC down good, reusing them is fine. It's also a >$10 part, so cheap insurance to go new if you can.

 

Been in this tread for like ever and im just finally now getting ready to refresh my charger.

 

Hello anyone still in here, Im working on rebuilding my supercharger, its a 2nd gen TRD. I have all the bearings out but the second rear rotor. From what i read it seems some of these housings arent able to simply hammer that bearing out the rear. I felt around back there as far as I could reach and could not feel any space where the bearing would slide out Im wondering if anyone can confirm or deny this, I have not found much solid info on this from my searches online. I might buy a cheap borescope to get in and really investigate this and solve this before I go get a blind hole slide hammer puller.

 

Which one? There is one that gets pressed into the SC and comes out the manifold tubes. The other one can either be pressed out the back and the back of the bearing can be seen from the back of the SC. Other versions have it completely closed off and needs to be pulled out.

Here is great picture of the difference between the two. Left is where it is open and can be pressed out from and the right is a closed housing. The right will need to be pulled out. I've never had to pull one out, so can't help you there unfortunately.

 

My housing has that one exposed and it came out fine. My question is for the bearing that is supposed to fall out of the manifold tubes, I did a little feel around Investigating back there and could not feel and place where that bearing would drop out. Im just worried about beating that bearing against the housing and not being able to retrieve it. Thanks for the photos

 

Update: 10 dollar bore-scope = excellent diagnosis tool
maybe unnecessary but I feel a lot better about hammering down on that bearing now

 

Funny but that photo looks like the casting is fractured ever where if you zoom in on the dark area's

 

Kindof appears that way but its just oil buildup scattering. The truck this came off of probably had alot of oil through the pcv that returned to the intake. I have a catch can that should alleviate that

 

Sorry thought I had responded to you. Glad you got it out, I don’t think any black SC’s have that part blocked off.

 

Has anybody else seen this amount of SC seal leakage? I installed this SC new in Dec 17 and only have 1600 miles.
It looks like if it gets much worse the oil will get on the belt and more than likely be a problem.

 

You need a new nose seal, snout seal, will only get worse over time,
The stock seal is marginal,
You need Viton seal that are rated at -40 to 400* F and 20,554 rpm
Also if you bought this new why are there wear marks on the snout housing bolts.
Looks like the snout was taken off before,
If this was a new item there should not be any wear on those bolts.

Snout seal goes bad from to much heat or just wear from miles or the shaft has
wear on it where the seal is or installed incorrectly and seal was damaged.

Follow my link below on how to replace the seal.
It’s not that hard.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-too-trd-supercharger-nose-seal-removal.514143/#post-17609007

 

I looked carefully at the snout bolts and there are wrench marks only in the tightening direction. Also to get my CARB EO sticker Magnuson verified the serial # and matched that it is a new unused SC.
I purchased the SC through a well know, reputable reseller so I feel confident that it is a new SC.

If it keeps getting worse I figure it is a warranty issue. It's just that removing the SC, shipping and reinstall is not without cost.

Anybody else's SC snout seal weep a little without issue?

 

Ok, then this is the deal. The seal is leaking so it’s not doing its job.
This seal is NOT working if it’s leaking. A leaking seal mean the oil
is coming from the oil that is in the snout protecting the gears there and temperatures for the bearings.
Sure you can keep running it the way it is till the gears burn up from lack of oil from the leaking.
Or keep refilling the reservoir so you don’t run low.

Once the seal starts leaking it might just sweat for months and then one day it will be a stream leak
and oil will be all over the inside of the hood and engine.
I’ve been here before with your issue twice.

If you look at the under side of the hood you will see the oil getting tosses up there.

Plan on fixing it or taking it off and sending it to the seller.

Again it’s an hour fix and a 12.00 seal. A big hassle to take it off and pay for shipping and down time.

If the bearing or teeth get damaged you will not be covered by warranty because you didn’t fix the seal when it started to leak.
I have 550,000 miles on my supercharger and have had a few seals leak, so I replaced them, never did they stay the same, they just got worse over time, but I drive ALOT

 

Cool, this is what I was wanting to know. Have to admit was hoping that this sweating was typical and not to worry.
I'll wait till the dealer responds and I find out if a DIY seal replacement will void the whole SC warranty.

Thanks

 

A few tid-bits I've learned since starting this repair that I don't think have been mentioned.
I ordered a new Viton seal and bottle of SC oil from Rolling Performance and received them in 3 days fast.

I held the pulley using a KD Tools 192 fuel filter wrench as per URD. Holds the pulley very secure for loosening and tightening the pulley nut.
Torqued the pulley nut to 38 ft/lbs.

Here is what the seal looked like, pretty juicy...


I drilled holes in the seal for removal using a cordless screw driver. I prefer a cordless because it's easier to control when the drill bit breaks through. Nicking the bearing or retainer would be bad. I put a blob of grease on the drill bit to contain the chips.


I like using a small dent puller for removing seals.


As per Magnuson Tech Support they said to suck out the oil, I used a HF pneumatic brake bleeder and refill with 120ml of SC oil. URD and Magnuson both mentioned not to fill with oil to the fill hole level. They say this is too much oil and will cause overheating and more blown seals.

 

Yup that works too, just have to be very carful the screw doesn’t hit the bearing as it’s right behind
the plate you drill into and yes if you have more than 120ml you will blow out the seal from to much pressure. Looks good

 

If you have the grey 1st gen supercharger you will need new O-RING seals for the bypass.
This is a typical seal that tends to leak over time. It’s easy it replace by taking the 4 bolts
off the bypass housing and sliding the tube section out back from the supercharger.

Clean very well and install the rubber seals with
Permatex MotoSeal
to seal everything up.
If these seals are not fixed you will have a vacuum leak from one or both seals.
When installing the top tube seal make sure it has Lubrication or the seal will roll out get damaged and don’t push the tube too far back otherwise the seal will get caught in the back clip of the manifold.

The O-RING seals you can buy here for the 1st gen supercharger

 

This thread is a great resource. I purchased a used 1st gen(grey) supercharger and rebuilt it myself.

I need some help confirming my vacuum lines. Is anyone savvy with the routing? The diagram I have is a little different than what I am reading/hearing. Happy to take this to a PM if anyone can help.

 

This is the write up for the grey unit, my unit is the grey one too, but there are some small variations too

 

Thanks. I'll take a look at this and see how it compares. I might send some pics of my setup to get confirmation that I have everything hooked up correctly