Stock battery amp power

Installed a 12 in sub with a 1000watt amp. Everything hooked right works perfectly fine on accessory mode but soon as I start the truck it goes into protect mode. Think the stock 2017 tacoma battery can't handle the 1000w amp right after the starter drains a lot of power to start the truck? If I drive around the stays in protect mode even after the battery should be fully recharged.

 

Is it new or used equipment?

What did you tap for the remote turn on?

You might want to double check that your power wire and fuse are good (you're getting 12v at the amp) and the ground is good.

 

Sounds like an install issue or a bad amp. Your amp should be happier with a running vehicle though. I'm with Purpleman - check all your connections. You didn't do something like tap the fusebox for the amp power did ya?

 

i ve got a rockford T600x4 and a T 500 mono thats a constant 740 on a stock batt and alt. doesnt dim anything at all love it i do have a rockford cap though

 

Brand new amp and sub. Used a harness that gets a signal when the head unit turns on as the remote. Ground and good and secure. Power as well, now my kit comes with a 100A fuse near battery and another 25A near amp. Getting 12.52 V when on accessoriy mode and 13.72V when truck on.

 

No, tapped into the factory wiring with another harness, no wire splitting or anything just plug and play.

 

That could be your issue. You need to run an adequate, fused, dedicated power wire to the battery. And you need a solid ground - like to the frame (paint removed). Body works too, but make sure you're on bare metal & not paint, primer, or any other barrier that will discourage current flow.

 

Contacted support and they will send me a different amp which has auto start or something, they ay it doesnt require a remote wire. Also amp is under the seat so there is a factory ground near by, grounded there.

 

OK, but tapping into factory wiring to power a 1kW amp isn't ever going to work properly and could lead to more troubles down the road. If your amp is going into protect mode with the truck running, you're probably seeing a voltage drop as whatever wire you tapped is being used by some factory system (err, could be a higher voltage too). Amps need a certain voltage range to operate and they also need to be able to draw adequate current. I'm assuming you haven't checked this voltage with the truck running and off?

 

Getting 12.52V when on accessoriy mode and 13.72V when truck on. The remote wire has a good voltage going to the amp not sure what it is but it works on accessory. Also it's just a signal to tell the amp to turn on it shouldn't need to much.

 

Oh, I thought you were saying you ran the power wire to some existing factory wiring. Turn-on only needs a few mV.

 

What brand/model amp is it?

Side note: I've never had to put 2 fuses on power for an amp/s unless a distribution block is involved. That 25 amp fuse seems a little low for a 1000w amp. If 25amp is what is required for the amp, then theres no reason there should be a 100amp fuse anywhere.

 

Not sure how I missed the post about cabling & fusing. Yeah 25A does seem a bit low.

I use a big fuse up front too. It isn't for the amps. It's for the cable. If for some reason the cable makes contact with some metal part of the vehicle (ex. crash), the big fuse up front is there to keep bad things from happening. I usually fuse up front somewhere in the neighborhood of the cable rating & as close to the battery as possible. I do amp, DSP, etc fusing out back through blocks - sized appropriately for the application there.

 

The battery itself is fine for now and for this use. Not knowing anything about that amp, I’m going to assume it’s about 60% efficient - so it’s probably pulling somewhere around 125 amps when the engine is on and the bass hits a sustained note. It will pull even more during kick drum bass from a good recording.

Those power fuses should be matched for this case... and they seem pretty low.. im surprised the fuses aren’t popping. What gauge wiring are you using? Going strictly off assuming this is the one and only amp, 4 gauge would be the bare minimum acceptable wire to use. If the amp doesn’t pull as much current then 8 gauge would be ok.

You might actually be browning out the amp if the wire is thin...protection mode will enable if voltage input to the amp dips below 11 V. Say you were to avoid protection mode by fixing the wiring, then the fuses most certainly would pop once some moderate volume bass were to be played.

 

4 gauge wire for power and ground. Smaller wire going to sub.

 

And you're running the sub at 1 ohm?

 

Still seems like a ground or the amp. This is a ********* setup yes?

 

Yes. Checked many times and ground and power wire all properly secure. Might try with just the 100 A fuse, take the 2nd fuse (25A) out the line.

 

I wonder if this amp isn't really 1 ohm stable. The amp will be making more power when you start the vehicle & that might be enough to trigger protect with such a low impedance. Amps (even class D) also get pretty inefficient at low impedances. So it should definitely blow a 25A fuse trying to give the driver a kilowatt. Even at 100% efficiency you'd be drawing 31.6A.

 

That's my guess. His single sub must be a DVC 2ohm setup, so wire it for a 4ohm load and see if the amp still shuts down.