SOLD, pls lock.

Thread has been moved to here, thank you.

 

@riz_atx

 

Would they fit a 2nd gen?

 

“$075”
That’s a machinist right there lol.
Lookin good

 

They would thread on, but it probably wouldn't look very good because it is configured to have a boot.The neck diameter is 1.3", so if you removed the boot clip you would get an abrupt diameter change from 1.3" to about 5/16".

The threads on your shifter are also not going to be on the same center line as the knob, and they would be offset by about 2mm or 3/32" from each other.

Thanks!

I really like when things are in line with each other. Not quite on an Adrian Monk level, but I might get there one day.

 

Knurled aluminum and one delrin have sold.

Also, the threads in the 6 aluminum sphere blanks are a little tighter than I like with anti seize lubricant applied, so I ordered a tap to open them up a little (I make them via single point threading). Slight delay on those. I'm guessing the tap will come in by mid week.

 

You already have me down I think for an aluminum or stainless knob. Can you also put me down for a delrin knob as well?

Unless you have buyers for the aluminum and/or stainless, can you change my original request to delrin? What ever is easier for you. I don’t mind taking both.

 

PM is coming.

 

Can I order a delrin knurled knob shifter please for an automatic?
Do you have a pic of one done to share please? I think machining a cavity for an "ECT" switch sounds wicked, let me know if you get the time to do it. How much?
Thanks, Eric

 

I have only knurled the one aluminum knob so far, and that is currently the only picture.

Delrin has sold out, and I am not allowed to take orders as per site rules. Once I get the current batch completed, hopefully I can circle back around and post a few more.

 

Thank you, appreciate it. ERIC

 

Sooo I'm guessing the engraving can be done on the black delrin as well?

 

Yep. I tend to only put limitations on stainless and titanium, because with those it doesn't take much to chew up a $30 engraving tool.

 

Ok will get back to you on this, will send pm

 

Just so I do not have to PM a bunch of people, all AT knob orders that were paid for are finished. However, I am waiting on a pack of shim stock for the shim kits, didn't realize that I was completely out of a few important sizes. It's scheduled for delivery tonight, so Thursday looks like the day they will all go out.

I was also waiting to finish up a custom MT order to save me a trip to the PO, but that is all done now.

 

And just in case anyone is making a custom shifter knob themselves, the connector that he designed for the boot works perfectly with the factory boot connector. Screwed it on with two screws to the shifter and it works flawlessly.

 

I'll eventually put this availability in the OP, and of course ... like anything else I can alter/customize it to anybodies needs for a fee of course.

 

All paid orders have shipped, and you should have gotten a PM from me as well as refunds for any excess shipping $ that you sent.

I haven't done up the instructions, but there will be a shim kit included to help orient the knob properly. The process is nearly identical to the MT knob, except the AT doesn't have the teflon (now delrin) zeroing plug at the bottom. I know it is lame that you have to read MT instructions to install the AT knob right now, so I will address that soon. Links are all in my sig.

 

Orientation instructions

When you screw your new shift knob onto your truck, there is a good chance that it will become tight at an incorrect orientation. I couldn't use the same orientation method of the stock knob, because there would be too high a risk of galling the threads. Outlined below is my shim method.

Note the yellow square at the bottom of the thread ... that is where the supplied shim(s) go. I supplied enough of each color for you to cut a few of each to proper size.



The thread pitch is 0.0492125 per turn, so if you place a yellow shim (.020 thick) down there it will net to a little less than half of a turn difference. Two yellow shims and two blue (.005) shims will get you right back where you started, if that makes sense ... because their thickness will add up to the pitch of the thread. That many shims will compress and be a little different, but that is the theory of it anyway.

Whatever you end up with, prep a blue shim and keep it in your cup holder, because the shaft on your truck will compress/settle the shims about that much over the first couple days.

Here are the colors and their thicknesses of the shim stock that I use. I don't always send the same colors, so here are all of them.