TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Keep in mind if you place the nozzle after the tb you must have a solenoid activate the meth or vacuum will suck it out of the nozzle.

 

I concur. I like leaving the sc un-drilled.

 

The restrictor jet orfice is too small. The orfice built into the jet is small enough to the point that it can cause vacuum and boost inconsistencies at full vacuum and wide open throttle boost runs simply due to its size.

This was evident to me the moment I pulled it off and saw as much as a 2-3" increase of vacuum at idle and was seeing a fairly regular consistent boost rise of 9.7+ psi versus before when I was seeing anywhere from lower 9's to high 8's (and even mid 8's) on a very inconsistent basis at wide open throttle. I was literally watching the boost spike and fall as much as 1-1.5 psi while fully boosting up. Enlarging it a little bit helps alleviate some of the restriction it causes in the boost bypass valve system. With saying that though, some of that boost inconsistency is also caused by blower belt slippage due to running smaller pulley's despite good belt tension on the blower. So at the end of the day it's really about combating multiple areas in unison. You know this yourself Roost because of how much parasitic HP the blower can draw just to turn it.

What I'm saying is that (the jet) is causing too much restriction on the system in its OE size to the point where vacuum and boost cannot reach full potential and be able to maintain accurate pressures within the blower manifold

I ultimately threw the jet back in after enlarging the orfice just a few sizes larger over what it was due to what I was noticing was what seemed like lean tip in condition. That being said I am running the basic TRD tune with the FPR mod.

For those fully tuned, there is no need for the restrictor jet as some have already proven, because you have tuned the system to accurately account for the lean tip in condition that exists due to bad tuning. Once AFR is cleaned up across the map throughout the RPM ranges and throttle positions you can run things a lot smoother.

I hope that came out better.

 

Um....yeah, I'll let you edit before I elaborate on this.

 

Give me a bit. Hahaha. I need total silence to write accurate statements when I write.

 

Me too!

 

Okay @Roostfactor, edited. Hopefully it makes better sense and doesn't sound like mental regurgitation.

 

I understand what you are saying but I dont FULLY agree with it.
If you have a given pressure applied to a diaphram either vacuum or boost the diaphram will feel that pressure. If you install a restrictor orifice between the source and the diaphram, the diaphram will still feel the exact same pressure, it will just take longer for the pressure to equalize between the source and diaphram. How long it takes for the pressure to equalize depends on the size of the orifice.
So I understand you enlarging the orifice slightly which allows the pressures to equalize quicker meaning faster response between bypass opening and closing. That is the only thing the restrictor does, it dampens the rate of open to close time and vise versa.
If people think it really helps to remove it then that's their perogative but I have noticed no I'll effects with mine installed and my boost comes on very quickly when the go pedal is pressed.
I will say though that I have not ever removed mine to test the difference.

 

If you ever are feeling adventurous and feel like tinkering, I encourage you to do so. I actually HIGHLY enjoyed running it without the restrictor for the time I did. It snapped out of vacuum into boost insanely quickly and gave it a nice little kick all around, and vice versa when it came time to release the fun pedal. The boost rise and heavy fluctuations disappeared, but I don't like the lean tip in condition, as momentary as it is, I would rather wait to get fully 100% tuned to remove it again. For now, modified for me it is.

You nailed the wording where I could not think of it, pressure equalization. The idea I have behind it is that it is so restricted due to its size that the pressure equalization is going haywire to an extent. Not much, but it was definitely enough for me to notice a very notable difference in the way it performed with it off, and then after, with it modified compared to what it was at the beginning of it all.

 

I'll take your word for it. I think if anything I would remove the jet completely and install an adjustable valve in the middle of the line. It would be much easier to access and you could adjust it at will.

 

Actually. That is a GREAT idea! It wouldn't take much either. Like literally. You could probably just install a small butterfly valve (I'm thinking of a very crude design here) and open or close the valve as much as you want when you want. Got any ideas in mind for a better design?

 

A small needle valve would be good due to the control of small adjustments.

Something like this with barbs on the ends.

 

uxcell Stainless Steel Single Way Aquarium Control Air Water Flow Lever Valve 2pcs

$8 uxcell Stainless Steel Single Way Aquarium Control Air Water Flow Lever Valve 2Pcs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GW5M2CA/

 

I might have to try doing that actually!

 

It’s weird I took the jet out when everyone was first taking about it and it use to be lean on tip in when I started to boost. Now I noticed when I do that at a low rpm it is still a little lean around 13.0 but once I hit 3000 rpms it completely switch’s and I’m rich as hell maxed out past 10.0 and then when I’m wot it’s normal. I’m ok with it. It works for me.

 

I’m a little worried with all this jet talk. I removed mine and I think OV tuned my truck with it off, so I dont think I can put it back in.. I really need to install my wideband sensor. The ultragauge only kind of works.

 

I like how my aem afr gauge works. Down side it doesn't read vacuum.

 

I have a 2 in 1 boost/vac and AFR gauge I just need to find a way to get the o2 wiring into the cab lol

 

I went through the grommet next to the steering shaft. Putting my second afr gauge in today and pilar gauge pod. Temp gauge as well. 4 x-series gauges are spendy.