Ripcurl's '06 DCSB boredom solution

The Beginning...

Howdy,

Here's my "after the fact" notes on my '06 DCSB build. As ideas and options developed, I began leaning toward the creation of a super reliable overland build.

I meant to start this build page when I began messing with the truck but I spent more time wrenching than digitally documenting the process. I did, however, create a "build bible" with all my notes, upgrades and part numbers. Now that I find myself offering advice to other members, I figure it would be easier to refer them to my build page rather than taking the time to reference my "bible" for part numbers etc. I'm not sure if I can categorize every mod so I'll just put things in a timeline. I'll try to title each phase accordingly for easier searching.

This is where I started... My little sister had it for a bit. Her boyfriend, at the time, decided to add spacers with wheels and tires. I got the truck back, but was basically forced to let my GF drive it for about 9 months. Ditched the chick, and then I really got the truck back. No GF meant more money and time to start a project.

I'll probably skip some exact specifics along the way so feel free to ask me about any parts or methods I've used. I'm also open to any productive comments/advice that you might have.

Here is what I started with...

 

Chapter 1

Motor Oil - Plate Bumper - Winch

I decided to build the taco after a bunch of 4x4 runs with friends. My buddies make these runs in all types of rigs from full size diesel builds to basic jeeps. I realized that reliability was the most important factor if you are going to be miles from civilization.

First goal, Synthetic motor oil. I've alway ran Amsoil in all my vehicles and toys. A lot of people told me that switching to full synthetic on a high mileage vehicle was a bad idea. "you'll spring leaks, its bad for seals, you'll break up old deposits and push more gunk through the system... etc" Don't believe it. No new leaks and the truck runs great!

I consider reliability to be directly related to recovery and armor. Proper armor reduces breakage and the ability to self recover keeps you moving.

The next major mod I made was installing a plate bumper and winch. Tons of options for taco bumpers but I wanted something super strong, affordable and would also encapsulate the winch. I only needed an 8k winch but found the X20 10k winch with synthetic line for super cheap so I went that route. I added a winch safety switch as well because I've heard horror stories about winches not stopping and causing major problems. I wired in a 500amp solenoid to a stock looking toyota push switch inside the cab so that I can kill the winch power in case of an emergency. (wiring specifics in electronics chapter)

Adding about 400 lbs to the front and knowing that more steel armor was on the way, suspension became the next priority.

BTW. My buddy Ryan also made some sweet custom weld-on sliders with the rear kick out.

Here is the first mod photo...

 

Chapter 2

Front suspension -

400+ lbs of winch and plate bumper alone meant that those crappy spacers and stock coilovers had to go. They actually held up enough to make the truck look cool but were super sloppy while driving. Knowing that I was about to add another 200-300lbs in skid plates, I needed to consider my options. After looking into Kings, Icons and Fox, I decided that I would go with a complete system that was made to work as a package. I ended up choosing the Old Man Emu Coilovers with the Heavy 886 springs. I purchased them from another TW member that had told me the stock UCAs would clear without issues. The guy was wrong. I could barely slide a business card between the coils and UCA at ride height so at full droop there was definitely not enough clearance. Total Chaos UCAs made the most sense. All of the reviews, recommendations from other TW members, ease of maintance/serviceable Uniball build and the fact that they are local to me made the decision easy. The Old Man Emu Coils pair perfectly with the Total Chaos Uppers. Upon final install, the supposed 3" lift actually equates to about 2" with the 600-700 extra pounds of steel armor.

Note - With front suspension off the truck, it is a really good time to consider any drive train mods (ECGS, Axles, Seals, Wheel bearings, spindles ETC.)

Also check your steering system - inner/outer tie rods and boots.

Photo - can't really tell by looks but the front suspension change is a major performance enhancement.

 

Chapter 3

Front drivetrain
axles, seals, hubs, bearings, ECGS, Front diff service, T case service

Since I had the front suspension off the truck it made sense for me to consider any drivetrain enhancements and maintenance.

The boots on my CVs felt a bit flimsy and dry so I went ahead and pulled them to get a better look. The boots actually ripped when I pulled the axles and I was able to see how dry the joints were. They probably would have bound up or broke if I engaged 4wd and added some power. I replaced both axles with OEM rebuilds from detroit axle. I'm really amazed that they sell OEM for so cheap. The axle seals can be pretty confusing so make sure you get the proper seals for each section.

90304-A0001
41336-04010

$12 90311-47027 Toyota Oil Seal - 90311-47027

90311-47027 driver 47013
90311-47026 pass 47012

Hubs and wheel bearings...
Unless you have a 20 ton press, just replace the whole assembly. Hub and Bearing packages are fairly cheap. Make sure you get the proper seals and dust shields included. Torque is 59lbs for the 4 bolts.

Plenty of videos on the ECGS process. Check diff fluid after bushing replacement. I went ahead and serviced the diff since my new skids were about to inable the process.

Front diff service...
Its super easy and since I was already in the neighborhood it made sense to just do it.
1.6 quarts of 75w/90
Fill --- crush washer

$21 12157-10010 Toyota Oil Drain Plug Crushable Steel Gaskets Set of 10 OEM 12157-10010

12157-10010 - 29lbs torque with 10mm allen
Drain --- crush washer

$8 90430-24003 Front Differential Drain Plug Gasket

90430-24003 - 48lbs torque

While you are at it and have gear oil handy you may as well hit the transfer case too.
1.1 quarts
Fill and Drain --- washers 90430-A0003 - 27lbs with 24mm socket

Grab 3 more quarts and some Limited Slip Additive and do the rear diff as well. Both Rear diff washers are 12157-10010 torqued to 36lbs with a 24mm socket.

 

Chapter 4

Transmission - Aux Cooler w/fan - Aux Filter

The sealed transmission system is one of my biggest gripes. Why not add a dipstick?

Make sure you loosen the fill and overflow plugs before draining the pan. The reason should be obvious.

Measure the volume of fluid that is removed and replace with just a little bit more than what was drained.

I did the drain and fill about 4 times until I felt the fluid looked clean enough. There are a lot of write ups on the process but basically the trans temp has to be between 115 and 130 in order to get a proper level reading. It is best to slightly over fill so that when the check bolt is removed you are draining to the proper level. If you pull the check plug and nothing drips then you have to add fluid, get back to temp, check again.

Fill plug is 24mm and torque to 29lbs
Overflow is 5mm hex and 15lbs torque
Drain is 14mm and 15-20 lbs

I have always been worried about the sealed system and the temps the tranny can hit while idling in the sun, in the desert and without wind. I added a TruCool Aux trans cooler, an Aux trans filter and for more insurance I put an 8" electric fan in front of it. If I'm idling on the trail then at least I can still make wind to cool the tranny.

Finding the direction of flow can be tricky so let me know if you'd like some photos of how I routed the system. Basically goes from Trans to cooler to filter to radiator back to trans.

 

Chapter 5

Armor - Exhaust re-route

In order to prevent unnecessary damage from trail goblins I opted to go with the skid plate trilogy from BAMF. It is full 1/4 inch steel plate compared to the 3/16 or 1/8 that most other companies use. The BAMF plates flow nicely from the from the front bumper, down the IFS area, across the transmission and end just past the transfer case.

For some stupid reason Toyota decided to run the exhaust from the driver side to a Y pipe on the passenger side by going underneath the Transfer case. This makes the exhaust pipe the lowest point in the middle of the vehicle. In order for the T Case skid plate to fit correctly the exhaust needs to be routed around the back of the T Case instead of under it. Be careful to keep the pipe far enough away from the electronic 4WD actuator. The actuator is thick plastic but some exhaust wrap or a heat shield is a good idea.

I also added Lower Control Arm skids from BAMF to help prevent shock damage and keep branches/rocks from tearing my CV boots.

 

How are those Detroit Axle CV axles holding up?

 

@Truc577 the axles have been totally fine. I’ve done a good bit of wheeling and haven’t had any issues.

 

Looks good!

How is it holding up? Any more work done to it?