Overlanding: Sport or Off road

Maybe it takes a magic moment?
I am from the old school as my first Jeep was a 1975, but my dad's first was a 1965... what introduced me to four wheeling.

When I got my 2010 Taco (December 2009) with the A-TRAC, my wife (also a former Jeep owner) and I took it to some steep, rutted hillclimbs. It just went up and up and up without a whimper.

On one short, but real steep grade, with deep ruts I climbed, the tires slid into the ruts, high centering the Tacoma. I thought now I really did it... and we were alone in the hills.

I got out and had a look... both back tires were in the ruts, in the air, with my differential and towing receiver resting on the ground between the ruts! The rear locker would be useless!

In front, one tire was also over a rut, off the ground (making normal 4WD useless), and just one tire (front) had contact. I was going uphill and now the truck's underside was resting on the ground with just one front tire firmly on the ground.

This was my first A-TRAC 'magic moment'...
I pressed the A-TRAC button (as I already was in L4) and gave it some gas... The truck pulled itself UP and out of the rut using just one front tire, on a steep, uphill climb. SOLD ME on A-TRAC that moment! I came to Tacoma World soon after and began asking what was this miracle system and then began to try and describe it and continued further testing of it in the desert and down in Baja. My many tests and various ways to explain it are all here in older threads.

One of the Baja tests was on a beach, with bottomless, deep dry sand above the high tide line (sort of like being in an arroyo or dry wash). I tested both the H4 TRAC (limited slip) and the L4 A-TRAC... My previous two Tacomas did not have any traction controls beyond 4WD and the rear locker.

The tires were not deflated for the testing. I used TRAC (H4) to get out to the middle of this huge sand area. I turned off TRAC (for open differentials only) and began to drive ahead only to get stuck in just a few feet. This sand is very easy to get stuck in if you do not deflate as it is mixed with tiny or broken sea shells so it does not compact.

For testing, I continued to spin the tires so the truck was really stuck on all four corners. I then went into L4 and turned on A-TRAC with just light pedal and the truck extracted itself! I then switched to H4, but with TRAC ON (standard mode) and the truck drove effortlessly on the sand.

This proved the value of the new TRAC system in H4 and the A-TRAC system again, in L4. On another note, the rear diff (as great as it is) sometimes is difficult to engage. The A-TRAC is instantaneous.

When I have a heavy camping load in the truck, I must deflate the tires on this beach... as I was bogging down using just TRAC at full pressure (32-34 psi). Once deflated (to 15-18 psi), the truck does fine loaded. See the photos in my signature link for sand driving.

So, there you have my experience and why I recommend A-TRAC for off road security and ability.

 

Here’s my 2 ct. on crawl control. I have it on my 2017 OR and never used it at least not until 2 weeks ago. We were doing some trails in Tenn. and I thought what the hell, lets see what it can do. First its very capable and handled everything I tried. But I didn’t like being a passenger cause all I did was steer. So I probably won’t turn it on again. Unless I run into some surgery sand as I do live in sweet Florida. Last thought......if you plan a build start with stuff that will protect your sheet metal. Sliders and skids. Leave the fancy stuff for later like lights, wheels and a lift. So many folks get hung up on big tires. Ask them a month later what their mpg’s are and what it did to the horse power. Big suck! Again, just my 2 cents.

 

Track, do you use MTS in low range? Have you tried it without the Crawl?

For those who don't have an Off Road 4x4 3rd gen: MTS is the new A-TRAC (for automatics) that you can adjust for terrain surface (Multi-Terrain Select). Crawl is simply a cruise control for low range... much like the Downhill Assist Control we 2nd gens have in low range... only now it is for level and uphill driving too.

 

I didn't read the whole thread.

But everyone plans on upgrading their tacoma from stock so, start with the strongest. The sport has the larger rear end, e-lockers are notoriously weak, considering they have the same ring gear size as the 1st gens (and I've broken mine 3 times, only 1 wheeling, with a lighter 1st gen). So why not start stronger? Or swap in a tundra rear end and call it a day, but that would still negate the need for an off road.

 

Some others have said it and I'll repeat it. Go out use it, break it make it better. I have the most basic of Tacomas it's a 4cyl access cab 4x4 5spd. It is the lowest trim level available in Canada and it has since day 1 done everything I asked of it. When I first started 3.75 years ago I had virtually 0 off road experience, memorial day weekend I completed Rubicon and kept going on a 5k mile trip. There is no replacement for experience. I've kept my philosophy simple, accept you may get body damage be happy if you don't, everytime you go out try and make things better. When I started I had 32s some sliders and a bear taco tent


Every time I went on a trip I made improvements first it was storage, then it was making space, and everytime I tuned my gear to my needs. At the same time the truck was tuned as I looked at going more places and harder to reach areas. Until I got to where I am now.




Keep it simple, function over form

 

IMO, the problem with crawl control is that, just like cruise control, it's really only useful for long periods of consistent terrain which I have not found to be all that common while off-road. I see people use it on steep technical descents and seems like they are constantly either going slightly too fast or too slow. I'm with you, I'm not a fan, too much like being a passenger...

I'd go for good tires before sliders, and the stock skid is definitely adequate for starting out.

The tires are by far the most important thing on your rig (besides that grey thing between your ears). It's literally the ONLY thing that's touching the terrain you are navigating. I agree you don't need "big" tires, but good tires with an all-terrain or a mud-terrain pattern (vs. those stupid road slicks the TRD Pros come with), even if the stock size, it will VASTLY improve your traction. I wouldn't go out and buy tires before ever touching the dirt (drive it as-is), but it's likely the first thing you'll end up needing "upgraded". If you're concerned about MPG, get a Prius. Tacomas were never known for their MPGs.

As for the armor and protection, it really depends on how much you value that pretty paint job and sheet metal you have. Honestly, if you're worried about scratching it, don't go wheelin' with it, lol. A while back I was on an easy trail (rated a 3) and flipped a log up and it smacked my rocker panel - put a sizeable dent in it. I got sliders soon after because figured it was time for sliders more than the convoluted OBA system I had been considering. Was on the same trail last weekend, and hit another branch, this time it flipped up, went right past my brand new sliders and hit my passenger door. My wife actually teased me about being a bit miffed about a dent in my off-road play truck. She was right, lol. It's just one in what I'm sure will be a long line of dents.

 

Tires and air pressure are a BIG deal for traction. Typically, weekend four wheelers don't deflate as they don't like to be bothered to air back up when they return to pavement. I see their tires spinning instead of grabbing when doing a climb or in sand (where you want to float and not dig in).

On dirt, lower the tires to the 10-20 psi range (depends on the type of tires and on the driving terrain). My German friends in their Mercedes G-Wagons and Land Cruisers have BFG All Terrains (3-ply sidewall) and always drop to 10 psi as a starting point. They never seem to get flats or get stuck. I have 2 ply sidewall tires (Hankook DynaPros) and find that 20 psi is nearly perfect... but can drop to 15 or less if needed. The heavier sidewall tires or mud terrain tires need less air than most all terrain or highway tires when off road.

 

I agree AT tires are in my top 5 upgrades. Funny about your dent story. I have a 2017 TRD OR and after the second off road trip I decided to give up on keeping it pristine. You really can't play out there if you are all concerned about scratches. I've got plenty now, especially after a full day in Ocala National Forest. A lot of their trails are narrow and lined with branches. But I still hate the sound when they scrape down the side of your truck. And I'm lucky, I have a wife that says, "Your having fun right, so don't sweat the small stuff"

 

Sorry for the delay, Yes I do have MTS and like Crawl it works but sorta takes the fun out of doing it yourself. A couple of months ago we were in Tenn and I was trying to run up a really steep hill (about 150 yards) . I tried MTS and it went right up and over. No slips no slides and I just hung on and steered. When I tried it without MTS I got all out of sorts not pretty but still got up and over.

 

I used to race mountain bikes. When I would finish building a brand new $7000 race bike, I'd kick it over in the shop. I found I rode a little more timid on a new bike - that first scratch is always the hardest. The sooner you get that first scratch out of the way, the faster you go!

 

Well that ship has sailed!

 

That was more for all the guys that go out and spend $50k+ on a brand new TRD pro, then get bumpers, sliders, winch, fancy plastic traction aids, RTT, and a pallet of armor-all for the tires.

Those rigs are awfully shiny...

 

For 3rd gens, it seems TRD OR's get the larger (8.75") rear end. Sports with MT also get the larger rear, but others are 8".

 

Functionally, the size of the rear-end doesn't have all that much to do with its overall reliability and strength. From what I've seen, the E-locker rear ends are just as reliable and strong as the non-locked versions. If you're breaking 8" rear ends, you're likely going to be breaking the 8.25" rear ends too.

So for the E-locker the advantage is you don't have to install a locker, and don't need an air compressor, tank, air lines, etc... For the non-locked axles, the advantage is you can install your own locker, like an ARB, which tends to engage slightly better than the E-locker, and if you are considering a front locker, the air lines, etc... are already there with your rear ARB.