Power Tailgate Lock

I ran one wire from the passenger side and split it at the rear. I installed the tailgate lock first and left the other wire ready to go for the cap lock when I had the shell installed. Everything works fine.

 

There is how i did the Sound Deadening Mat.

 

Looks great. Just to clarify - you only applied it to the rear side of the tailgate just to that second 'bridge leg'? Nothing in the inside side or any of the cross pieces right?

 

Yes, correct. Actuator mounted to the metal part and plastic handle, so this is where goes most vibrations, when actuator engages.
I decided to cover that area around the tailgate handle.

 

My pop and lock would hang up as well and not lock. I pulled my cover apart and tried repairing it a number of times before finally getting the right fix. I had some blind threaded rivets (#8 - 32 and ½” long) in one of my junk bins that came from, well I don’t know where they came from. I pulled the lock back out and used a 5/32 drill bit to drill out a hole on the pivot arm. I would recommend a punch/nail or smaller bit (pilot hole) to make a sure you get dead center when using the larger bit. There’s not a lot of extra material if you mess up. I would also suggest using Loctite. I believe the M4 threaded rivet is the metric equivalent and is readily available on Amazon or EBay. I don’t know if any of the local hardware stores carry these.

 

For the wire nuts out there I'm planning on using posi-tap into the pink w/red and pink w/ green what is the exact wire size? I looked at the wires and just looking at the rubber it could be 18 or 20 gauge but that is the cut off do I get the red or blue posi-tap

 

I'd be interested in using Positaps as well when I do this mod. What size did you end up going with?

 

Earlier in this thread someone said blue ones. I haven't done this mod yet myself. I have all the parts....just need to do it. FWIW, I bought blue ones to use based on that previous posting.

YMMV

 

I still have yet to buy the taps i was waiting for a solid answer to the exact wire gauge, if I were to just guess based on what I saw the wire thickness would be around 20 gauge and I would pick the red ones, right at the cut off either way I'm sure you could get by with red or blue but I think if the wire were smaller than u may not get a solid tap with blue. I'm thinking if I went red and the wire was 18 gauge that at least the wire would be positively centered for the tap. FWIW I have never used posi tap but have done an absolute ton of wiring in my lifetime so take it for what's worth. If it were out side of warranty I would cut and use environmental splices but seeing how I have under 1k miles on it I'm trying not to make "permanent" alterations. Also look further on Amazon there is way better deals on the posi tap than the one previously linked 5 for 14$ is not a good deal. Here is 6 blue for 10$

$12 Lockitt Posi-Tap 6pc pack #605/6 16-18 awg Blue

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H242NNY/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A2Q32NH2TXUFG5&psc=1
And here is 6 red for 10$

$12 Lockitt POSI-TAP 6 pack wire connectors 20-22 awg

https://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-POSI...D=41Rxh4EGAiL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

 

I ended installing the Pop and Lock last night and used these (in blue). It is what was available from the local auto parts store and it worked great.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxt3LVpvjcw

 

Just did my 2018 DCSB and it's wired green to green and blue to red. Works great! I did not use the connectors that were supplied. I bought the ones that clip onto one wire and then you put a spade plug on the other wire and plug it into the clip.
This wayif your wires are crossed you can switch then easily. Be sure to push your wire down into the metal slot to be sure it makes contact.

 

Thanks @Aznray for this idea! I found the correct pins from Corsa https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=435
Bought the housings from Toyota, and made my own wiring harness. About $25 in parts! I haven’t installed it on the truck yet, but the hard part is over, and I can rest easy knowing that I didn’t mess with my factory wiring harness at all.

 

Very nice job! Thanks for the link. I think I'll redo mine. What wiring harness did you tell Toyota?

 

The housings are Toyota part numbers - courtesy of @Aznray:

90980-11536
90980-11537

The pins were purchased from Corsa https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=435&category_id=144

You'll need six of each type (pins and sockets), but I would recommend you get a few extras in case you screw a few up while crimping:

090II-PIN2
090II-SKT2

And then you'll need some 16ga stranded wire from anywhere wire is sold...

 

Anybody tell me what color wires and people say it’s the bottom plug then I look and you tube and see people use the top white plug on the same passenger side and I’ve tried both plugs and the actuator still does nothing can’t figure it out might have to run then to the driver and give them a try on that side? TIA

 

Could you me on those instructions if still available I’m having trouble tapping them correctly

 

New joiner here - wanted to give back a bit, as I learned enough from this thread that I ordered a P&L kit tonight... In case anyone is interested, JC Whitney has the

$169 PL8535 POP & Lock – Power Tailgate Lock for Toyota Tundra, 2007 to 2021 Toyota Tundra, Truck OEM Lock, Anti Theft, Truck Tailgate Lock Replacement, Easy to Install, Made in The USA (PL8547TUN)

PL8535 kit for $82.47 plus free shipping (found coupon online). Beats Amazon by a good amount. I also ordered parts to build a P&P harness (Thanks
benkitesurfs and @Aznray)!

 

In case anyone is wondering....
These seem to get finicky over 105degrees.

I've had to go back to using the key, because it locks but won't unlock my tailgate when it's hot.

 

Have you tried opening the tailgate back up to see if the mounting bolt have loosened up allowing for some slop in the mechanism?

 

Not yet

Did I mention that it happens when over 105?

(lounging by the truck outside is not in the top six thousand things I want to do until like october)