Oil change question

No it’s a 2011 with the 4.0L. My dads 07 Tacoma had the same engine but the different oil filter location. I would gladly take a V8 in my 4Runner or Tacoma

 

Interesting, is that the dual vvti version of the engine?

 

could this be another cruel 3rd GEN hoax ?

 

Probably!

 

Yes sir! Same exact deal. The only thing is that it produces 270HP compared to the 07’ 4.0 which is at 236HP I believe.

 

Removal of the drain plug in the oil pan.

 

Jiffy Lube

 

This seems like a job for.............. anybody else but the original poster which I believe is the point everybody here is trying to make without being a jerk

 

I agree have a professional take care of it there's not much to work with here on a knowledge base I didn't watch the video but if it is a video of an actual oil change you can make an attempt to follow it

 

Oh boy...

 

This is the procedure for a 2nd gen 2012 TRD 4.0 the amount of oil is different the filter sizes different and probably the filter location the rest are all Concepts you could follow.

If you insist on doing it yourself start from the beginning. Go purchase the oil and get rid of any oil already put into your engine.
Open your oil cap. Right on top driver side on a second gen 2012. Put the cap somewhere you will not lose it.
Place a tube or capturing container underneath the nipple that is protruding from the bottom of the oil filter housing.
Remove the oil filter. It's a good idea to put a few paper towels down in the area where it may drip you want to do this without getting oil all over your pulleys and radiator hoses...etc.

Place a drain pan underneath the oil pan and remove what is a 14 mm bolt on the bottom of the oil pan (mine is a 2012 so it's a 14 mm)
Once it begins to drain get your new drain plug and washer ready.
Go drink a beer or find something to do for a few minutes allowing the oil to drain out completely.
When it's finished draining you have one drip about every 10 seconds or none at all.
This part is extremely important!
Put the drain plug back in the oil pan make sure it goes in straight ....do not use any tools... simply hand tighten the drain plug.
Once you've got the drain plug in straight and have turned it as far as your hand will allow only then put a wrench to it and tighten it until the new gasket is crushed do not overtighten or you may strip out your oil pan!!!! No rush here...failure here is gonna suck so do it right! Be gentle.
Remove the filter from its Packaging.
Dip your finger inside your oil cap..or use a small bit from the exposed filter housing.... (normally i wipe the filter housing clean and then rub a small amount around the seal of your new filter. I use K&N oil filters 1-0-0-2.Dont use cheap shit on your truck!!! Get good quality stuff.

Hand tighten the oil filter right back to the same spot you remove the old one. Again it's very important that you make sure to put this on straight to avoid stripping the threads.

You're now ready to put new oil into the crankcase.
If you have not already remove the dipstick and wipe it clean.
Put the dipstick back in where you got it.
Place a funnel where the oil cap once was and dump new oil into the crankcase.Make sure its going down the tube....not along the side of your motor.

I highly recommend that you use full synthetic oil for the entire life of your vehicle.
(I have used nothing but full synthetic I have no leaks and it appears as if everything is still very clean shiny and new inside the motor.)
I normally use Purple...but recently moved to Castrol magnatec full synthetic.

Once you have poured the proper amount of new oil in your motor remove the funnel and put the cap back on.( I substitute half quart of lucas for the 5.5 quarts) sounds like this might be your first oil change I suggest just stick straight with it until you got it figured out.

Remove funnel...have rag or towel to catch drips and place oil cap back where you got it... I normally take a moment to make sure it's nice and clean all around inside and out....before I put it back.

Before starting the motor... check to verify the drain plug is tight as well as the oil filter.
Start the engine.

While it's running observe the oil filter and watch for any leaks.

You will also need to crawl back underneath the truck while it's running and watch the drain plug for about a minute and verify there are no drips.

If You observe a drip wipe it clean and watch again.

If there is ANY..EVEN A DRIP! of oil coming out from the oil plug or oil filter ..verify both are tight.Wipe clean. If both are tight and oil is still coming out you probably strip the bolt or the filter threads...( if you failed at that.. ...I highly suggest that you need to call a tow truck and find and older vehicle to practice wrenching on.. you got to start somewhere but don't let it be on your new truck..unless you have the coin to make costly mistakes or just dont give a shit)
Turn the vehicle off immediately..if you have leaks and both filter and drain plug are tight.

If there are no leaks once oil pressure has been raised by running the motor... turn the motor off.
Place your vehicle in the key on or accessory position by moving the key one click forward.
At the dash panel press your trips button until it reaches trip 1 or trip A.
Now turn off the vehicle and remove key.
Depress the trip reset button and hold it down... while still holding it down ,fully start your vehicle you will notice the trip odometer will turn into small dashes and countdown each digit until it blanks out and resets your maintenance required light.
Now clean up your mess including the oil you may have spilled. Because it sounds like you started a new at this keep your tools clean and organized or you'll hate yourself later on.

Check again for any drips after your first few drives to ensure there is no oil on the drain plug or any seeping out from the oil filter seal. Normally I'll drive a few blocks check for leaks and do that a few times on my first drive.


Pretty sure that's the right order hope it helps.

 

Changing oil is faster than typing all that

 

Not if you only do it a filter full at a time.

 

OP seems to be MIA... hope he has figured out his issue and gotten it resolved by now. We all learn here and there.

 

He could be stuck at the dealer trying to explain the logic of why he overcooked his engine seals

 

Right.....unless... as it appears its the first oil change for the original poster.

 

Was out of cell service area most of the weekend, but to those who offered geniune advice- thank you! This is the 1st vehicle I’ve had with a cartridge style filter, so yeah.....I did watch a YouTube tutorial on the procedure. I’m now realizing the video only covered the filter and not the oil pan. Good news is that I’m not a window licker like so many assumed or hinted around to in your sarcastic replies, so I never overfilled the crankcase. Common sense should have clued me in to still needing to drain the pan as it’s lower than the filter housing. Doh! Lesson learned. Previously owned a 06 Duramax Crewcab and did my own maintenance on it- glow plugs, ball joints, injectors, oil, tranny, & fuel filters, etc. I’m mechanically inclined, just made a mistake and skipped a step due to being unfamiliar with the cartridge setup.
Thanks again!

 

The filter housing drain plug is there so you can drain it prior to removing so you don't make a mess.

 

I don't think I was to rough on you but geez...it doesn't matter whether it's a cartridge or spin on you still have to remove drain plug from the oil pan.

That's why this thread progressed in the way it did. Not to mention a few other manufacture fan boys starting $hit here starting some other threads that got removed.

 

lol. Typical TW thread.....

A lot of ASSumptions. Some people trying to help, some people not trying to help......but in the end, what makes is a classic TW thread is that despite the fact that the question was posted in the 3rd gen forum, by a third gen owner about a 3rd gen tacoma, it actually became a second gen thread for for awhile.