Rust on Frame with A/C drain mod fix

How long were your zip ties?

 

18"

 

Big thanks to the first to share and all contributers. I am a previous 2nd gen owner who went through hell with Toyota due to frame rust. Water under the bride and now in a 3rd gen. That said better to be safe than pissed off down the road. I did not reinvent the wheel as many have shared cool options. This was my second Mod after my bed mat if you can even call that a Mod...lol

1. This is a "Anyone Can Do Mod"
2. You can do this Mod 100% from underneath the truck (was feeling lazy and did not turn wheel to remove splash guard)...lol
3. I kept it simple. Tried to keep the most natural routing with most vertical exit for best flow. I live in Northeast and did not want freezing issues from moisture lock in bends, flat run areas and long runs also.




Found at my local ACE Hardware store in loose hardware area


Plastic tubing splice


Inserted in to 3/8 I.D. rubber tube 3ft long. Very snug fit.



Make sure you have it pitched slightly greater than factory so gravity does its thing but try not kink the firewall grommet. (Photo looking up from underneath)


I used a quick release tie wrap on the vehicle side drain tubing for ease of removal. Note: the I.D. is larger than 3/8 and why it requires a means of securing.
Mating the two can be accomplished from underneath the truck. There is space just forward of the cross member to get your arm up to the drain. (Photo looking up from underneath)



Routing and securing with no interference. I ran out of black zip ties. (Photo from underneath)



Cross member pass through hole. (Photo from underneath)



Cross member pass through recess for tubing to sit in and zip tie location. (Photo from underneath)



This picture is deceiving as the tube does not hang that low. 1.5 to 2 inch below cross member. I routed my drain in as straight and direct path possible. (Photo from side)

Hope that adds a little value to a great thread.

 

May I also suggest you get that truck done with fluid film or krown? That will help your new truck not rust away like your previous truck did.

 

Has anyone had any issues with the line getting blocked up in the winter? My concern would be with water/mud from the road freezing up in there during the nice long winters up in Canada.

 

i think with the amount of heat coming from the manifold it wont freeze. Ill keep an eye for mine

 

I fixed mine today...got a male to male 3/8 hose connector...plugged into the hose from firewall and the other side plugged into 18" 3 /8 rubber fuel hose...ran it down and secured it with a zip tie..works great but I'm thinking of zip ties in the 2 connections or hose clamps...but for now all is good...total cost 7$

 

Thanks OP! Easy mod with awesome results for the trucks lifespan. For those wondering about winter weather, I just cut the exit end at a 45 degree angle to keep an open channel while stopping road grime from blocking up the end. I think it'll be fine but if I have an issue after next winter I'll post up the solution.

 

Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried spraying Boeshield T-9 on the frame in the general area where the water would drip down on?

 

If this is such a problem, why doesn't Toyota fix this potential issue? Hell, I just bought a 2018 TRD off-road. Now I have top craw under this rig to modify an AC runoff drain on a ~40,000 dollar vehicle?
Am I missing something here?

 

Great write up, did mine today, 450 miles on the truck. Hoping to keep this truck for a long time.

 

You don't have to do anything...

 

You are missing that its completely not necessary. My unmodified 2016 has no rust.

 

OK... Thanks. I was thinking "WHAT". Thanks for the clarification

 

Now does anyone have a funky smell from their a/c? I was told they don’t drain so well and there’s a kit to spray and neutralize it?

 

Couldn't have said it better myself!

 

This works wonders.


https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-SOA868V9315-Climate-Cleaning/dp/B00TSGYKIU

I tried a couple of other things including Lysol and Frigi Fresh but they seemed to just temporarily mask the smell with a strong chemical odor but within a week or two the smell would return. I did this a month ago now and with heavy A/C use I am getting no odors whatsoever. Also recommend picking up cheap carbon cabin filters. Seems to do much better than the KN or OEM ones i've used.

 

My frame didn't have a weld in the area where the water was hitting the frame but all the same I opted to route the drain. I happened to have a Volvo power steering suction hose kicking around that fit the bill nicely. After you trim off a 180 degree bend it fits just like it was made to go there.

$24 URO Parts 30645081 Power Steering Suction Hose

https://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-30645081-Suction-Steering/dp/B0066SMEKY


I'll skip the pics on mating the hoses together since there are already pics out there. Using this hose I was able to route the it down through a brake line loop to keep it away from the exhaust. I held it in place with a 12' zip tie and routed the hose out the lettering in the splash guard. All I had to do was trim the material between the letters and the hose slipped right in. Now the splash guard is holding the hose tightly preventing it from rubbing on the frame.

 

regarding the why do it question, the issue isn't the water when it comes out of the drain. The issue is where it travels and eventually sits to fester. I saw the water exiting all down my frame when I shut the truck off so I opted to do the mod and dump the water out where it won't sit and work on the frames paint and welds. I will be adding that copper fitting and screen though. Nice idea that one.

 

Run the heater hose back instead of forward so it isn’t affected by air pressure at high speeds that could allow your condensate (water) to be pushed back into the truck.