TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Gotta love mods for mods!

 

3

https://youtu.be/O6rHeD5x2tI

 

A single key turn, about 3 audible cranks.

I’ve got a few check valves I can ship out for $23 total via priority mail for those interested.

 

Off topic but if it doesn't come from nipples its not milk.

 

What I did today at work ...

 

Never did a 2015 before , Test drive in the morning !!!

 

Copied from my thread:

@White lightning boosted

Decided to start making the mounts for the inter cooler resi and the pump that I’m gonna relocate in prep for the new bumper/winch fab project.

This mount is to flip around the resi so the hoses run “better” in the engine bay and will prep the new route for the hose to the pump. Nothing fancy, but will be functional (and painted of course)







I only had 16 or 14g sheet laying around so I think it’s safe to say once installed, it’s not going anywhere

 

Just a thought... the gt500/lightning pump comes with a decent bracket. Wonder if it can be had separate


https://lmr.com/item/M8501MSVT/2007...4Ox1FhULei2Cki5N6BNtVX6IppZxv3iBoCsEAQAvD_BwE

 

so after seeing that haha, it may change my design. Im gonna google a mount for the bosch pump (I think my pump was in a blue/white bosch box) to see whats out there. I like the simplicity of that

 

This changes things too



A pic from a tundra. I guess its safe to mount this pump vertical as opposed to horizontal (like ours are installed). If I can mount this as seen above, it would make things MUCH easier for me.

Thoughts????

 

Check with the manufacturer and tell us what they say.

 

that was on my to-do list for tomorrow haha, great minds.

I will def do that. I figure as long as I keep it around the same "height" that it sits now, there should be no issue. I am really just moving to the passenger side, out of the center, to make room for a winch with the new bumper Jim and I make

 

Pump orientation will not matter .but keep it lower than the LTR, otherwise could get air in the pump and cavitate.

 

How do I test my boost gauges? My digital meth gauge is showing a considerable difference from my aem. Like 2.6 and 1.8. They're both t'd from the same spot. I've always thought my #s were low for my set up. Meth gauge is telling me what I'd like to believe.

 

maybe plug in a manual gauge to see which one its closer to?

 

I did just think of that. It would be ironic to buy a 3rd gauge to check. Probably the right call!

 

Off topic from the current debate for a second:

I plugged in my scanner today just to test out the scanner because I was having some previous complications with the scanner. While doing so I checked out fuel trims just for the hell of it.

At WOT stabs of the accelerator pedal I found that my Short Terms would spike up as far as +20.313% on both banks... I'm going to assume a spike that lean is due to the massive boost of air the manifold is creating when the accelerator pedal is hit yeah? I'm also going to assume that that number is variable based upon how much boost the blower is capable of for the configuration you have, as in say you are only capable of 7.5 psi, the fuel trims would spike to maybe +17.5%(ish) vs. my +20.313%?

Just looking for some insight on this one, as this blower is my first rodeo and understanding the way it affects the tuning software is important to me.

 

Try swapping the hoses on the "T" to see if your boost numbers switch on the gauges or if they stay the same.

 

Talked to Mag and the guy actually wasn’t sure so he took my info to find out, and actually called me back once he spoke with another rep.

Long story short, you can run it vertical or horizontal, just not upside down. When he told me this I said “I assume upside down means the outlets facing the pavement???” And he just kinda reiterated vert and hori was ok haha

So yea, I’m gonna run it like the pic of the tundra above. Hope this answer the questions for others as well

 

The trims are ecu adjustments to its nominal setting of 0. The numbers you are quoting +17.5 and +20.313 don't correlate to the amount of boost especially since when you actually floor it you are in open loop so the ecu does nothing to compensate rich or lean. It will not add or remove fuel so you will not have any + or - numbers.

What you are likely seeing especially since you have the fpr mod is:

In vacuum you have lower fuel pressure than stock so the ecu is adding fuel to compensate. This is your "+" number.
When you quickly stab the throttle it will take a short period of time for fuel pressure to rise which could possibly cause a momentary lean condition.
Doing the bypass restrictor mod would only further exacerbate this problem