MOOG Part #K100128 Problem Solver Caster / Camber Cam Bolt Kit

After spending about a week trying to get the cam bolts out (I got the front 2 however the sleeves stayed in the bushing so really didn't matter), I bit the bullet and cut my LCA's out. I'm picking up the parts today (all new bushings, adjusters, bolts w/sleeves). I'll try to post the parts list when I get it from the dealer since I saw a few of the parts numbers posted earlier in this forum didn't match all of my bushing numbers. The question I have concerns the lubrication. Anyone have suggestions on what is best to use when installing? I was thinking about it the other night and fluid film came to mind. I hadn't heard of people using them for the cam bolts however I use it for undercoating and know people who swear by it for lubrication of other bolts. My only concern is that I know it can cause swelling in certain types of rubbers. I also have anti-seize, white lightning, and would be willing to go buy something else if it works. Any suggestions on what's best? I certainly don't want to have to do this again. Thanks.

 

Regarding Fluid Film, I don't think it would be ideal. It's not the most tenacious stuff, it would wash out pretty quickly. I'd use anti-seize or ultra tacky grease (like Aeroshell, I have a tube of it from a winch rebuild, expensive but incredible grease). I'd spray Fluid Film all over after installation, it does creep a little and would shield the joint. The only place beside frames I've found Fluid Film works well is as anti-corrosion on electrical connections on the battery. It's not bad there, but even that Anti-Ox, copper anti-seize or dielectric grease is better.

 

Spc dont work ither i went through the same problems like the moogs did

 

Hey Guys, I am going to be pulling both my LCAs to replace bushings and all hardware. Reading all of the horror stories about MOOG, I will go with the OEM bolts and tabs.. That being said, I am not sure if anything is seized, but should I just buy all of the hardware to have on hand if indeed there are some seized parts? Probably good to replace anyways.. Also, will probably go with ultra tacky for greasing them up - what are the areas that need to be greased? the entire shaft of the bolt? Anywhere else?

I will also be going with the whiteline bushing set (

$147 W53312 Front Control Arm Bushing, Black

W53312) since I have heard great things about those, and they are $135 on Amazon for a complete kit (both sides). Anyone have anything to say about the whitelines? Looks like they come with all of the proper hardware (washers, sleeves, etc. but their picture only has 3 sleeves included - how many should there be?)

Will be buying the MOOG ball joints since I will have the arms off anyways. Going with

$24 Moog K80827 Front Lower Suspension Ball Joint for Toyota Tacoma

Moog K80827. If there are better joints out there for a similar price please let me know. This is adding up to be a spendy, time consuming job so I just want to get it right the first time. Any input would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

I've bean on the computer now for hour debating weather to replace the bushings with oem bushing and using a moog lower ball joint or just spending the extra $300 and getting the complete oem lower control arm. Either way I am sticking with oem cam bolts.

 

I feel ya man. All of the days of researching is getting to be a headache. I am kind of in the same boat with you about just pulling the trigger on new arms with OEM shit already installed. Then getting new cam bolts and what not and calling it a day. Would save tons of time. Then I guess you could work on replacing the bushings and ball joints with new stuff and selling them here on TW. Sell them for slightly cheaper than dealer and re-coup some $$

All I know is that I have a horrendous clicking noise coming from my drivers rear cam and its driving me freaking nuts. Just want to get this problem dealt with quick.

 

I was thinking about that too. You would be spending a couple hours pressing ball joints and bushings. I need new tires and the old tires are destroyed from the alignment not being correct due to frozen cam bolts. I also have 98k on my truck and this year I've replace the front eibach springs with a set of Icons and replaces all the bushings and the uni balls on my TC uca's. After I am done everything should be close to new.

 

Well atleast youll have a whole new suspension/tire setup after that. Ive recently done the same with my suspension. New uniballs/bushings on the UCAs, wheel bearings/seals, eibach coils/5100s... But now for these dam LCAs. Cant wait to get those all squared away so then Ill have an all new setup as well. My alignments have been fine so far and went in the other day to have it checked and its right where it was in august when I put new suspension parts in. My question is: do you think my cams are frozen? Or the mere fact that they can re-align means they are not? They dont use salt on the roads here in Oregon - instead they use cinder/sand type material. And the truck was in CA for most of its life. I just developed this clicking noise whenever I drive and have isolated it to the LCA. I just wonder what is causing that noise? Its driving me nuts.

 

Your cam bolts may be fine. A bad ball joint can develope a click over time. It probably wouldn't hurt to replace the bushings. Here on the East Coast "The Salt Belt" cam bolts are prone to seizing. Usually everything gets a nice coat of anti seized.

 

Gotchya. Will definitely be changing the joints while I am at it but I stuck my phone right under the lca cams and bounced the truck up and down. Click comes from the rear drivers cam I just dont understand why. Regardless I will change the bushings/cams but for now I am just stumped.

 

I recently did the install with the Moog greaseable cambolt kit. 1 kit is good for one side so I ordered 2 kits. They had the front and rear bolt. The cam disc had these markings:

Fronts: 826-2

Rears: 826-8

 

update
now have 60k on my bolt kit and moog bushings
seem ok to me
pro tip :dont let people who do not know what they are doing touch your truck

 

Oh how I know that feel.

 

Nope. Oem and a bunch of anti-seize is the way to go.

 

Where do you apple the anti-seize? Just found out mine are seized. The way I understand it the bolt is seized to the sleeve?

 

Update: Moog has replace these free of charge multiple times for the same issues. Stick with a anti-seized/greased OEM setup! I switched back to OEM this last weekend after 3 sets failing the same way OP stated. Do not buy these.

 

subbed so I can read more about this.

 

15+ alignments, 3 sets of LCA's, same moog cam bolts