The 4.88 mega thread!!

low enough you should not worry about it. around 2000 at 65 and 2250 at 70. somewhere back in this thread is a calculator for this. In any account the RPM is not much especially considering the double overdrive. I run stock - per the math I am "over-geared" and would need 33's to make it equal - math is math but in this case I'd rather be over-geared. Truck runs way better IMO. To each their own.

 

Awesome.. Thanks for the info...

 

Well every company has that one person who likely has no idea what they are talking about. ECGS is a reputable company but that doesnt mean everyone there knows what they are doing or talking about.

I spoke to Nitro over the phone regarding new gears and mentioned I would be getting them cryo'd, they went on to explain that Cryo was a waste since it was just a service treatment. Even had the audacity to say that we make the gears so we know best. The reality is that cryo is not a surface treatment and its not used to case hardend metals, its through treatment of quenching that changes the entire crystal structure creating a complete metallurgical structure change to the core. They were just wrong so no point in debating over the phone with them.

I don't expect Nitro to know anything about Cryo because thats not what they do and the guy on the phone doesn't do the manufacturing nor are they likely an engineer. Just like Nitro I don't expect ECGS to know anything about REM polishing because that's not what they do, they install gears, they don't make them or polish them. If anything REM polishing is an added cost due to double shipping to REM then to the customer. I understand why they wouldn't want to bother with it but like all things, take them with a grain of salt.

 

Maybe they'd like a shot to answer publicly rather than us guessing.

@ECGS
What are the advantages and disadvantages of REM polishing?
Does ECGS offer REM polishing as a option when installing gears? If not, why?

 

It looks like they haven't signed on in almost a month, but hopefully they monitor the thread anyhow and could chime in.

 

hey ya'll, just wanted to pop in. Got my gears installed last week. love them.

 

What tires you running with them? Felt torque increase pretty good or just enough to bring it back to stock feeling (if your running huge tires)?

 

Well there are plenty of articles that answer the first question and we know the answer to the second question.

The real question is what have they seen.

 

I'm running 33s. It's not crazy, but a little more torque than stock. It's more that the truck just smoothly and easily gets up and going instead of lagging.

 

hey all,

I am about half way through my 500 mi break in period on the new gears. The shop i went to recommended 500 mi and then do a fluid flush of the diffs. I just realized that i'm not going to be able to put 500 mi on the front gears in any reasonable amount of time. I have about a mile of flat dirt road by my house but thats a lot of laps. I also dont want to tackle any long offroad trail while the gears are still new and tight. What have you guys done to break in your front gears?

 

I took off my rear driveshaft and drove around in front wheel drive for 500 miles
just kidding
I didn't do anything except change the gear oil. I engage 4WD almost daily to get out of my driveway but that's about the only use it's gotten since the gears went in. I figure the gears are still moving anytime you're driving whether you're in 4WD or not, they just don't have a load on it in 2WD, so whatever casting flash or other rubbish that may have got knocked off will be flushed out when you change the oil.

 

just flush the rear and leave the front, its a waste to flush it so early.

 

Ive been driving in 4Hi for all straight aways. I switch it back to 2wd for turns, then back on 4hi. Im about 310 miles into my break in and the rears are ahead by maybe 20 miles or so...

 

Good idea! I'll start doing that. Thanks!

 

I thought that the spider gears are always moving but the ring and pinion do not move unless 4WD is engaged.

 

you're right

 

not sure if i posted this in this thread but here's some good info to compare. all with stock tire size.

take note an auto with 4.88's doesn't even hit the same cruising rpm at 75 that a manual does stock with 4.30's at the same speed.


transmission gears


stock manual rpm's at various highway speeds



stock auto rpms at various highway speeds



manual with 4.88's at highway speeds



auto with 4.88's at highway speeds



ref: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html if you want to play with the numbers

 

Anyone else with an MT do this? Without ginormous tires? I know a couple people have done it with 33's (@D-Rock531 ) but I'm still on the fence since I don't want to run a bigger tire than that. I'm in the tall-skinny fan club.

Running 32's right now, might go up to 33's. Will be pulling a trailer + gear and I'm just wondering if the switch is worth it for the trailer. It will be the AT Teardrop.

 

I highly recommend it even with stock tires. Once you add some armor or gear or a trailer it will be a huge difference. It also really makes the truck get up and go. Toyota already screwed us on the 6th gear ratio, but you'll increase about 200 rpms from the 4.30s. my gas milage has also stayed the same stock, on 33s, and after the regear. I just cruise in a different gear. Great perk of the manual

 

Looks like I’ve got about $2K to add to my Taco Fund.

Thanks for the response @D-Rock531 !!!