Camping Truck 04 DC Build (4x4 Conversion)

I tried to reuse my spindles and press out the prerunner hubs. Like you said, the amount of force is beyond ridiculous.

 

I'm keeping ABS for basically the same reason. I completely understand it would be cheaper and less of a headache to delete it. I've determined that a machine shop is the way to go for pressing. It'll be more expensive but I don't want to destroy a bearing. I still need to source a set of spindles or buy the Hub assembly that my locking hubs mount to. They are $184 a piece from Conicelli so I'm leaning towards finding a set of manual hub spindles to get the part. Haven't seen any on Ebay as of yet.

 

So every other part is identical on the spindle from my 4Runner but this hub assembly so the locking hub can mount in. Easiest way to get it will be buying a set of manual hub spindles from a Tacoma off ebay like you said.

 

I'm confused.
I had to go back and re read a previous post.
Whatever you are pulling off the 4runner spindle/hub will work on the tacoma.

If the 4runner spindles don't have ABS. Press out the hub on the 4 runner spindle.
Press out the hub on the tacoma spindle. (the bearings will most likely break each time).
Take the 4 runner manual hub and press it into the tacoma spindle with new bearing.

 

He’s going to use Manual Hubs, which the 4Runner never had.

 

Oh I see. Makes sense.
Yeah he needs manual hubs then.
Nothing worth using on the 4runner hubs then.

 

It sucks to make the ADD system function as well since T4R's used vacuum actuated shift forks instead of electrically on the later 1st Gen Tacomas. You need to mess with VSV's and everything.

 

Lol, when I did mine I saw that and was like what?!
Didn't even look into it. Automatically started looking for manual hubs.

 

If you're looking to buy manual hubs I saw a post or two in the first gen marketplace of some sets for sale

 

I already have a set of AISIN ready to go. Bought the one part of the hub assembly that the hubs mount to for under $90 from rock auto. I would never buy bearings or anything that wears heavily aftermarket but it's just a chunk of metal. Can't be too bad.

 

Aftermarket hub assemblies and the hub bearings/seals are in. CV axles arrive today and the rest of my hub parts, seals, mount, and other odds and ends arrive tomorrow.

I still need to get fluids for the diff/tcase and transmission. I'm seeing a lot of conflicting reports on how much and what type of oil the A340F takes. My owners manual says T-IV but I've seen people claim D-III. And from what a dude on T4R.org said I'll need 12 quarts(that doesn't sound right). I could get 12 quarts of Toyota ATF T-IV for about $70 which is better than some aftermarket fluid brands.

 

I'm happy with these CV axles. Got a little back sending my old ADD axles back to CVJ.
I've seen complaints about them online but those guys are usually wheeling an IFS truck too hard in my opinion.

Ran out of time. Still need to clean up the diff/tcase and redo some seals on both. Might paint them both red since I have a ton of red engine paint. College classes start monday and I'm back running xc so energy will be at an all time low. Three day weekends are my only time to work now. Once every part is prepped and ready to go I can drop my transmission and pull my spindles and driveshaft to get them all modified. I also need to do the steering column tack weld mod.

 

Looks like its all there!
Nice.
I recommend doing any seal you think you should do while the components are out. I need to do these guys.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mh1BK5--KrU

 

Definitely replace the rear main

 

Diff is 100% confirmed 4:10. It seems to be in great shape from my limited knowledge especially for the condition of the rest of the vehicle it came off of. I'm going to replace all the seals and redo the gasket. Then hit it with a sand blaster and paint it red. Transfer case is next. Need to figure out what I want to lock the fork in place with too.

 

Got my sand blaster and compressor set up ready. Started blasting a bunch of the bolts and other hardware and painted them. Going to have to blast the diff and transfer case outside of the cabinet so that will take some sand and prep.

 

Had Friday off from class and practice. Torched the old bushings out of my front diff mounts. I'll be putting some new bushings in that @Plastics Guy designed since Toyota doesn't sell new ones.

I'm sandblasting/painting the arms and some other hardware and call it a day since I have an 8K race tomorrow morning. If I can get every item prepared and ready to go the conversion could go down in mid November. Otherwise I'll start after final exams.

 

Spent a few hours sand blasting and prepping things for paint. Differential is painted and I did axle shafts/pinion seals. Still need to figure out how I want to lock the actuator in place since I didn't buy a manual tube.
But I guess the option is still there with part #41320-35030 @$142

Transfer case is next for painting today and the front driveshaft needs to be cleaned up. After that everything is 100% ready for installation besides the transmission output shaft swap and front half of the rear driveshaft.

I might just put my truck out of service for a week or two and ride my bike to classes. Didn't expect to get all this done during the semester.

 

@BartMaster1234
If I purchase the non add tube (41320-35030) will I be good to go or need some other parts? The diagrams look like I’ll be good.

I'm on the fence about keeping that ADD actuator failure point but it’s also $142 for a tube.

 

You need way more than just the tube. You'd need parts 4, 5 and 6 on the diagram below, which are the axle shaft and seals.