Oil filter - NOT oil changes

10,000 miles on Mobil1, factory filters for the full 10,000 - sometimes I forget for up to 15,000 miles. Blackstone oil analysis reports have come back good. If you want to see if your method has merit and is worth spending the extra money on mid oil life filter changes send off some oil samples to https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

 

Just read the Blackstone labs FAQ.
Pretty funny stuff!

 

You miss my point.

There should not be any ferrous material for any magnets to find.

Wear material is primarily non ferrous. If you're getting a collection of ferrous, the motor is on it's last legs already.

Regardless of magic marketing and pretty pictures. Of something.

No, the magnets don't hurt anything. Other than people's wallets being picked.

Whatever. Enjoy.

 

I wonder if the million mile tundra used oil filter magnets

 

Its oil... Adult supervision required...

 

Not exactly true. I may be giving my age away (what the hell - women don't look at me anyway), but I began drag racing in the late 60's; not at street lights, but on the track. A new engine, particularly in today's tight tolerances, produce a fairly "large" amount of metal shave offs (bearings, valve guides, lifters, etc) during their break-in. Combine the use of modern, super-slick motor oils and individuals who "baby" their new car for a long time, the wear/break-in takes longer continuing to produce metallic particles. Red Line Oil warns on their label not to use it during the first 2000 miles just to allow for such a happenstance. No, my reason for the magnets on my new Taco (8-months old, only 1200 miles) are sound; but we got off point. Besides, if a part, a single bearing or whatever goes, I would like to try and save the rest of the engine. Warranties don't last forever.

My thanks to all!

 

Well, it's not like you can go on Toyota's web site and pull up their beta ratios for their filter, let alone even a declaration of filtration efficiency on their box. Although Toyota is a Japanese product, my Taco was made in San Antonio, TX. From Japanese parts - probably. But filters made in China or G-d knows where do not give me confidence. Some may say they are made to Toyota's specification, but so what? How often do you hear on the news of fake, cheaply made parts from Asia that are marketed as the "real thing" but turn out to be garbage?

 

Me too. Same era. Crewed on an NHRA E/S ET record holder, set at a points meet at Gainesville Dragway.

Still disagree on the magnets, but that's ok. I'll see myself out now.

 

When the "credentials" start flying the good people leave because you already have your mind set on what you want/are going to do. Why even ask the question if all you want is people with your own opinion answering.

Data speaks. Get your method analyzed and then see if it's still worth doing.

 

I too am in the minority it seems. I use mobile 1 full synthetic (0-40 because turbo) and I change the filter at 6000 miles and do a full change at 12000. I've done this for 80,000 miles or so and have 223,000 on it. It doesn't use any oil and aside from all the jerry rigging I've done to it foe the turbo it runs like a top. Clean oil is good oil and a dirty filter wont clean the oil so...

 

I've been changing oil and filter at 10K since new. I spin on a new filter at 5k and I'm probably being conservative. I'm at 190k and don't add a drop of oil between the oil changes.

 

Sorry. I wasn't trying to out argue some, but I can see how I contributed to it. My original question was, and remains, if I am alone in changing my oil filter in-between oil changes. Why I do it I have explained, but why/if others are doing it regardless of their reasons.

 

Wouldnt an oil filter by itself catch any metal shavings? Isnt that what its supposed to do? Ya know, filter things? I would buy a magnetic drain plug before I put magnets on the filter.

 

Perhaps, if they are large enough. Some filters (Toyota's???) are only rated at 40 microns, while the better ones are at 20. This is why I mentioned beta ratios above. I feel there is a reason for the magnets for myself - I am NOT trying to have you guys do the same. And frankly, how much of your 4 - 6 quarts of oil are going to even get near the drain plug?

 

Where are you getting this micron spec if you said a few posts up that you couldnt find it?

In my opinion OEM filters are the most well made of all the filters available for these trucks. The thread linked a few posts up shows like 20 different ones all cut up, the Toyota one had more media in it than any other option. The engineers at Toyota who have been designing/ improving these trucks since the 70's know their stuff. Toyotas are known for their reliability after all.

 

Stop being such a little girl, plenty of tacomas have made to 300k with OEM oil filters. It's a toyota, shit will run forever. Use OEM or do whatever else and be done with it, you are overthinking. Rant over

 

Having two daughters I know what a whining child sounds like. I started to challenge you at your rather weak attempt to put me away, but no, I believe most here are interested in different points of view and possibilities. If you don't like what I am asking/stating, then STOP BEING SUCH A LITTLE GIRL and move on. Y'all have fun now, ya'hear.

 

Either from their boxes or web sites - or lack thereof, and from others on different sites posting engineering facts, not hearsay. If you or anyone believes that what comes from the factory/parts counter is the begins all/ends all, then our conversation should end. But for others, I offer a perhaps, different view. THERE IS A REASON WHY MANUFACTURERS DO NOT GIVE A LIFETIME WARRANTY! They know that wear will cause problems/breakdowns over time. It's called marketing, to hopefully buy another one of theirs.

And by the way, I am having two MagneFine inline filters added - one on my transmission, and another on my power steering. One, I know of no power steering system that includes a filter, and two, most auto trans filters are a joke. Ever hold one up to a strong light (the separated filter material)? It would be hard for it to strain out a hard sneeze let alone fine particulates.

https://magnefinefilters.com/main.sc

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/forums/6/1/Engine_Oil_Filters

 

In response to my request, here is what Purolator states its beta rate is on the PureONE:

Hi Katrina,

Here are the Beta Ratios for the PureOne that was requested.
Below I put the standard beta ratio chart for comparison.

Micron 5 = B4.8
Micron 10 = B50
Micron 15 = B1000
Micron 20 = B1000
---------------------------------------------------------
Standard
You would typically see
Beta Ratio Efficiency
2....................50%
10....................90%
20....................95%
75....................98.7%
100....................99%
200....................99.5%
1000....................99.9%
----------------------------------------------------------
Using the standard ratio numbers here is our PureONE.
(> = greater than; µm = microns)

B2 = below 5 µm
B10 = 6.69 µm
B20 = >8 µm
B75 = >11 µm
B100 = 11.42 µm
B200 = >13 µm
B1000 = >15 µm


I hope this isn't too confusing.

Just a reminder, guys
_________________________
A HIGHLY TRAINED, PROFESSIONAL IDIOT

The above was from an engineer at Purolator which was forwarded to me. Let's see if anyone has Toyota's beta ratios that can come even close. Good luck!

 

every 5k I replace the oil and the filter...



takes me forever to reach 5k miles tho.