Icon Vehicle Dynamics 2.5" Coilover Rebuild

ORW, DSM, SDHQ, and Icon won’t sell me a lowspeed compression stack... I’m coming to the point where I’m gonna have ORW do a revalve and rebuild for 300... ahh... I just don’t have time to open it up and play the guess n check game.

 

What a crock of shit . Well when you do rebuild them again you can take a look at the shims that are used and then sell your own low compression shim stacks.
I am going to take a top hat to a local machine shop and heve them made out of steel . I just had a new top hat crack at the center bolt when I unscrewed the top shock bolt to clamp it on a vise to swap from 650 coils to 600 coils. I don't even have them on the truck yet and not a happy camper.

 

I am in the same boat. Got the Icons 2.5 front and rears fresh rebuild for $650. I can rebuild myself when the time comes but just a bit of a pia.

 

@desertjunkie760 @Prayn4surf

 

Sub’d

 

Hey Trevor, sorry, old Post.

Let me get this straight. You can't get pre tuned valved shimed stacks? Fucking Icon trade secrets? Like this stuff is underwrap tech?

 

Also looking to soften my Icons for street use, anyone have any leads?

 

I know this is an old thread but hopefully someone will have an answer



I have a Question For anyone who has rebuilt multiple shocks. Is it normal for a little oil to seep out of the bottom On the outside edges of the bearing housing (the part you change all the seals in), just under the retainer C clip once you get everything put back together AND you push the shock stem down like it is cycling BEFORE you ever fill it with nitrogen?

Just wondering cause this is my first rebuild on my Icons and these are the 2.5 non resi fronts. I rebuilt them yesterday and figured once I filled them with nitrogen then it would put pressure on the bearing housing to push back up against the C clip retaining ring and the O ring around the bearing housing (or whatever it’s called) and it would seal off tight at that point.

just wondering before I waste my time going somewhere to get it filled as if it is not supposed to seep a little at all then I need to figure out something else. I reseated it several times yesterday and it always seeps.

Any comments?

Again there is no pressure in this yet.
Here is a picture, dust end cap not on just looking down, very very little oil will seep if I try to cycle with no nitrogen in it.

thanks everyone

 

A little is ok as long as once the shock is fully charged it stops seeping. Clean the area and let sit for 10 min. If anymore leaks, you may have a problem. Icon shock charge pressure is 250psi.

 

Thanks!

 

Bumping an old thread, but does anyone know the proper torque for the 12 point 1/2" bolt that attaches the top hat to the top eyelet?

 

70ft#'s for the top hat bolt

 

Nice, figured at 1/2" it was about that, but wasn't sure what grade hardware it was.

 

Grade 8

 

Actually, I think it's a grade 10 bolt.

 

Finally replaced my squeaky upper and lower bearings. Got the replacement parts from 303 Shock Services. 30k miles before it’s first servicing, not bad. Nitrogen was at 100psi so I topped them off at 250psi. Going on a test drive later. Took about 2 1/2 hrs.

 

Nice work

 

@License2Ill
Did these spherical bearing work out ok for you in the long run?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fkb-fkssx10t

I have a 2014 Tacoma with icons and the remote reservoir. The front is squeeking badly and I noticed the lower spherical bearing has quite a bit of play in it. I want to replace them.. Do you think these are the same bearings?

 

Sorry I just now saw this reply, haven't been on TW in a hot minute. I replaced the lower bearings again when I had the coilovers out last, and I used the 303 Shock Services kit. One of the misalignment spacers had mated with the spherical bearing, and there was no reusing.

The 303 kit is definitely high quality, and I like the snap rings included vs. the spiralocks that Icon uses from the factory.

Here's the link: https://www.303shockservices.com/product-page/2-5-coilover-lower-mount-replacement-bearing-kit

 

Super late response, but I appreciate the pointers. Updated the original posts to reflect your suggestions.

I did make sure to clean everything extremely thoroughly before final assembly, pictures didn't reflect this. And good note on the seal head being seated. Once charged, the seal head seated, and I had to retighten the cap + set screw. Still need to get some soft jaws for my vise though

Been a couple years and tons of hard miles now, everything is holding up great.