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Wheel/Tire Fitment

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by KaininH, Aug 17, 2018.

  1. Aug 17, 2018 at 4:59 PM
    #1
    KaininH

    KaininH [OP] New Member

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    Hey guys, first off I’d like to say hi in my first post ever. I’ve been creeping on this forum for ideas for a little over a year now, and finally decided to make an account. I’ve enjoyed my truck stock for a year and some change and now it’s time to start throwing some money at it.
    First thing I’ve decided to do is a vanity purchase I’ll admit, but I’m thinking of upgrading the wheels and tires. My endgame is a set of Method 305/105 Matte Black (haven’t decided if I wanna ride dirty with beadlock) sized 17x8.5 | 6x5.5 | 0/4.75 and some tires sized 285/70R17 (also indecisive about tires. I’ve seen a handful of pictures on here and that combination seems to have good proportion in my mind. However, most guys already have a lift with that setup and my lift is going to be a few months behind the tire/wheel upgrade (spacing out how mad the wife is).
    The question is whether or not anyone has jammed this size tire under the stock suspension setup, and if so whether or not they’ve experienced any rubbing under reasonable driving conditions.
    I’d appreciate feedback on this even if it’s just a link to similar discussions. Thanks!
     
  2. Aug 17, 2018 at 9:20 PM
    #2
    eldedo

    eldedo voted most likely eaten by a bear

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    don't, wait for lift. (make sure you buy uca's)


    Then it rubs even with lift...so caster at 4 degrees and cmc.

    ....then you notice at full flex the plastic needs trimming

    ....then you need to fold over the pinch weld.

    ....then you debate on 255/80/17 or removing flares and going with bushwacker flares.


    this is one possible scenario.
     
    FishnTx likes this.
  3. Aug 17, 2018 at 10:19 PM
    #3
    JoeCOVA

    JoeCOVA Well-Known Member

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    It looks like those wheels are a 4.75 BS, you will likely run into clearance issues with that size tire. Firstly it will rub without some work, especially the cab mount and if you can manage to avoid that you may rub on your shock body or UCA

    Why are you even considering a beadlock?
     
  4. Aug 18, 2018 at 10:19 AM
    #4
    KaininH

    KaininH [OP] New Member

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    Eldedo,

    Thanks for the feedback. I was kinda thinking I should just wait, I just have the cash now burning a hole in my pocket until I’ve got enough for the lift also. What kind of lift are you running?

    JoeCOVA,

    Mostly I chose that size based on recommendations from the manufacturer of the lift I plan throwing on. The lift does come with new UCA’s so I shouldn’t run into that issue. As to the beadlock, I know I’m not going to be needing it for what I plan on doing now, but I also know how these projects go for me and I’d rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it so to speak. I’m pretty new to this whole thing though so if you have some insight it would be appreciated. I’m building my Taco (which is a daily driver) to be an overland rig on the weekends for me, my wife, and my son. I’m not going to be doing anything insane I just want to be able to access most places to throw up my campsite.

    Thanks for the feedback guys.
     
  5. Aug 18, 2018 at 11:59 AM
    #5
    JoeCOVA

    JoeCOVA Well-Known Member

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    I would say that 99% of the time you will never need a beadlock but only you can really determine if you need them or not. If you are constantly losing a bead, then a beadlock may be warranted however you should be able to reliably air down to 10-15 psi without losing a bead with a 33" radial or even the stock tire for that matter. I have aired down to about 12 psi in the stock tires and did fine.

    I have no idea what wheeling you are doing but I cant imagine a situation where you would need one with a 33" tire.

    If you plan on running 10-15 psi then you shouldnt need one, however, if you are airing down to single digits then I would recommend one. With beadlocks I'll air down to 0-5 psi, but if that is not what you need then I dont recommend them. If you intention is simply daily driver and overlanding then beadlocks are definitely not needed.

    I only know of 2 DOT/SAE compliant beads that are approved for highway use. All other beadlocks are considered offroad only. This is not an issue outside of Utah and people have never had issues with them.

    IF you want them, then get them, but I would strongly recommend sitting down and thinking if you really need them or not, they are a large expense that can go into more important things like, on board air, dual batteries etc.
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2018
  6. Aug 18, 2018 at 4:29 PM
    #6
    KaininH

    KaininH [OP] New Member

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    Well you sold me on the no beadlock. I never want to do anything hardcore that could potentially break my rig, sort of the point of overlanding as I see it
     
    JoeCOVA likes this.
  7. Aug 18, 2018 at 5:03 PM
    #7
    jmauvais

    jmauvais Received 2 votes in a poll one time.

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    ...stuff

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